xman

Theres a possibility that they haven't reconnected one of the brake cables on the drum correctly. They are rather fiddly to fit.

Unusual. Was the oil filter very tight/overtightened? What make and part no was it? Check the threads for damage, was the oil filter put on crossthreaded? I don't know of screwlock that works in oil and would be frightened of it getting elsewhere in the lubrication system. I would just screw back in as tight as gloved fingers allow, it shouldn't be a problem as screwing on an oil filter should only tighten the fit. Check the thread and bottom of the mating part in the housing is clear and clean. Interesting that its available as a seperate item.

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No! The errors might have been logged a long time ago, associated with issues and work done back then. If errors are not current, then there is nothing wrong. Eliminate coil pack and plug first. See how you go from there. Someone may even have fitted the wrong plug, or not changed it even though charged you for it. They may have damaged the coil pack which requires the correct tool to pull it out otherwise the seals gets damaged.

If the errors don't come back, forget about them. Red herring

Its much more likely its an ignition problem. Just because your spark plugs were changed 27k ago doesnt rule them out. Sudden and intermittent 2 cylinder operation is very often just ignition. Coil pack or plug. Fuelling issues would throw other errors, injector blockages are rarely intermittent. You cleared historic errors which didn't come back, only the misfires

Probably the top mounted filter on the older 1.4tsi 122ps EA111 engine fitted up to 2015 Looks like this Not your filter

If its the CZDA 150ps engine (with the oil filter way down on the sump at the front) then Mann W712/95 Available from ECP, GSF and many other places. https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Yeti (5J, 5L)/1.4 TSI CZDA (T00000000331867)/Oil Filter/W 712~95

Mann supply most of the VAG branded oil filter in the dealer network. They are a major OE supplier to the factories. Since my recent experiences with Bosch (brakes, oil filters etc) I'd recommend you avoid them. They don't manufacture them just rebrand third party aftermarket suppliers, some recent bosch filters made in France have incorrect part nos, they may fit but are not the correct part for the engine. https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng

Does anyone know if its possible to pop out the passenger side airbag cover on the dash without breaking anything and can it be subsequently put back? My dash has developed some dreardful creaking when its cold and it appears to be coming from that area. After the car imterior warms up it disappears. Only people who've had actual experience of removing it need answer 😉 Not going to take any risks.

They should self adjust straight away. Press firmly on the footbrake and pull the lever a few times. If unsuccessful then check the cables under the tray behind the handbrake lever. If the T bar is badly skewed, one of the handbrake cables may be stretched or broken. Or one of the adjuster wedges are stuck. If you take the wheel off you can try adjusting manually by pushing the wedge down with a suitable screwdriver through a bolt hole on the drum. (Hole positioned offside approx at 1 oclock and nearside at 11 o'clock positions) adjust until brakes just touching the drum and back off a bit. Then recheck the cables at the T bar are now more or less level.

The recommendation of 15 years/180,000 miles changed as of July of last year.

Coil pack no 1 failing Cylinder is disabled automatically after so many misfires are detected to stop unburnt petrol washing the bore and diluting the oil. Moving coil pack positions will confirm a faulty coil pack if the fault position moves with the pack. Remove and examine no.1 spark plug for obvious damage or failure.

Nothing to worry about that level, all my cars seem to sit at that level, even if I top them up to the max line, after a few weeks I find them back at that level. If I don't touch them they stay at that level without dropping further even after a couple of years.

Skoda indeed does not use the 130ps variant in the UK, but that variant is used in other VAG models and does have ACT https://drivemag.com/news/new-1-5-tsi-130ps-engine-for-vw-golf-shows-the-limits-of-combustion-tech/

Overrun = engine slowing down from high revs with throttle closed (foot off accelerator) this causes a high vacuum in the inlet manifold which will draw oil in through any leaky valve stems. Follow immediately by pressing the throttle, applying power so any oil is drawn into the cylinder and burnt causing a momentary blue or white smoke to be puffed out of the exhaust.

You are conflating Peugeot puretech and Ford ecoboom engines with VAG. Afaik , VAG have never ever used wet cambelt tech in any engine designs, they only use conventional external cambelts or internal camchain SSP-511_The_New_EA211_Petrol_Engine_Family.pdf

I thought that the 1.8t requires a fine tip (platinum or iridium) spark plug? Super 4 are not really suitable

Neither has a wet cambelt, don't know why you imagine VAG ever use a wet cambelt. They are both EA211 series engines and have fully dry lifetime (15yr/180,000 mile) cambelts. A few people report low speed drivability issues with the 1.5tsi, something that plagued many early 1.5tsi engines but seems to occasionally pop up with the latest gen 2 engines There was a batch of 1.0tsi engines years ago that had self loosening cam phasers that convertered the cambelts to wet ones, unintentionally. Driving both is the only way to judge what you prefer. I was very surprised how good the 1.0tsi was in a Kamiq I hired abroad probably the 110/115bhp version. I wouldn't be surprised if you find the 1.5tsi a bit dull by the accounts I've read. Many consider it a step back from the previous gold standard 1.4tsi it replaced.

Just check all cylinders are more or less equal.

It might be simply old age. At over 300k miles the engine is super high mileage and sounds as if is tired and worn. They used to say using Easy start type stuff damages and accelerates piston ring wear, engines become addicted to it. I would say it needs a good old traditional check over. Start with checking compression. Inspect camshaft lobes for wear etc. Check to see if timing is spot on. Address all error codes. Fuel pressure error definitely needs sorting. Somewhere along the way you'll find the problem. It may be simpler and cheaper to fit a recon engine.

Is the misfire when applying power, trying to accelerate? If so I would be tempted to have a compression check done, could be a burnt valve/seat or piston ring problem which the 1.8 is reknown for.

I didn't know this car had been converted to run on lpg. I'd suggest that there's a lot here that is beyond the scope of most members, certainly me. Only thing I can think is lpg requires completely different ignition timing to petrol and maybe there in lies potential problems.

It suggests cylinder 2 (the lighter) is running leaner than cylinder 1, not dramatically so. Is the EML or EPC light on? Has the car been scanned for error codes? Check the brake servo vacuum line is intact, no splits at every joint, or hanging off the inlet manifold, allowing air to be drawn in. Over fuelling causes the cat to run really hot. So may be a faulty injector leaking.