Rustynuts

You're overthinking this here. You already had a diff / haldex unit and sent it back as the haldex wasn't the one for your car. If you have a need for a diff, the haldex you have already could be swapped over (providing the basic fitment to the diff is the same).

Not on the underside of the seat. On the floor under the drivers seat.

No, Nothing there looks like a Bluetooth module. However, looking at the loom it doesn't look like a retrofit kit has been fitted so maybe the factory kit is somewhere other than the driver's seat. Just to confirm, you're certain it's not under the driver's seat? Might be either under a steel cover, under a plastic cover, or Velcro fixed to the carpet.

VUC library error is an indication of a failed unit. Josi recovery disc won't fix this.

Hej København. Welcome to Briskoda.

Well, it's certainly just an Amundsen rather than a Plus, so the Bluetooth module will be there somewhere. I guess it's gonna be a search, so possible places are behind the head unit in the void behind the dash, or in the centre console, or in the footwells up under the dash. Provided you're certain it's not under the driver's seat?

Can you post a picture of your unit please?

I'd guess if you can afford to buy OEM led tail lights then further outlay is beyond your resources? The cable you use wouldn't be available if Ross Tech didn't build the software so you could buy it from someone who stole it.

I did it myself with VCDS. The procedure is simply changing the serial number of the existing battery data by one number so the system knows the battery has been changed (provided the new battery is to the same spec as the old one).

Reading your first post you say they didn't program the car with the new battery. I'd be having that done personally. Changed my Yeti battery yesterday, programming takes a couple of minutes.

The Bolero only supports up to 32Gb capacity at most. I'm not sure if that's your problem or not, but you could try a 32Gb card first.

Have you asked the warranty company to provide details of a garage who will carry out the repair they're prepared to pay for.

Yep, it's the 180 TDCI engine. Seems nippy for a big motor.

Well, it's been a while but today was the day...

The DAB antenna takes 12v DC feed from the head unit. I'd be easing down the headliner at the rear and check the black fakra plug is connected correctly. There's about 200mm of cable from the antenna to a connector for all the cables, check colour coding and make sure they're all correctly connected.

They appear to be correct, yes. And even if they're copies the data should be ok.

Collection has been put off til Tuesday or thereabouts. Logistics didn't work out (too much work came in for tomorrow so I can't pass up the moneymaking).

Collecting Saturday. Until then....

Nope, it's diesel for s start. Aspman, I still do about 28 - 20k miles a year in the Yeti, just the Audi which sits doing nowt.

However, I'm beginning to find that Briskoda is clearly the lord of internet forum help when compared to Ford... All I can find in relation to technical knowledge is "wil dese weels fit mi fiester anyone no" sort of crap.

Gaz.... Just, NO. Shy, you're aiming sort of in the right direction, but it's more exciting than a C Max.

Well here's a clue...

Still doing plenty of miles in the Yeti, but no chance to use the Audi due to lockdown situations. So just done a deal for something which could well get me banned from Briskoda (if it weren't for the Yeti). However, it's not for my use, it's for the girlfriend so she can get shot of her lease / Motability car (for the daughter).

Okay, so a year (nearly) on and the Audi is being sold. I did a shade over 500 miles in the time I owned it, so realistically it's dead money. Considering it costs £500 a year to tax and insure before it even turns a wheel I can't justify keeping it when I have better things to spend my money on. So, watch this space for the next chapter..

In the front right hand drivers door shut (the manual appears to be based on left hand drive vehicles).