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Yes, did that as soon as I bought it

Throttle body (ASV) has been cleaned out twice in 12 months, it was bad on both occasions probably because one of my injectors was over-fuelling. I found that the DPF back pressure has been greatly improved by removing the sensor and applying cleaning foam spray and at around £20 a throw I will do that as part of regular maintenance. The DPF differential sensor gets a a reset via VCDS each time. I'm convinced the diesel knock originates either due to a duff sensor changing the mix and making the car run very lean around tickover, or on the inlet side due to clogging.

I agree, I just need to know what the issue is - I suspect it's a clogged intake manifold as I've changed everything else. At some point I intend to remove the MAP sensor, blast the intake with brake cleaner via the EGR mixer with a long flexible spray pipe and let the muck evaporate/drain out of the sensor hole.

I too have the dreaded CAYC engine, I think you need to use more revs - a lot more. Unless I rev mine to 2500rpm for a few seconds on the drive before I pull away it simply has no 'go' and pulling out of the uphill junction at the end of my road is 'interesting'. Even then, 3rd and above are horrible under 1500rpm, and I get pronounced diesel knock around tickover - if I pull away slipping the clutch with no throttle it's fine (in slow traffic), but any throttle no matter how gentle produces diesel knock. If I was capable I would have replaced the 1.6tdi lump with a 2.0tdi - in the long run this would have been MUCH cheaper.

I've had this for a year (forgot to cancel after 1st month), and whilst it is very useful for resetting errors and starting a DPF regen, those require a subscription. My subscription has now lapsed, and it's pretty useless with even engine module faults greyed out so you can't identify them, and no access to forced regens or adaptations. I leave mine in the OBD socket these days simply to monitor the DPF via the VAG DPF app.

Sounds like gummed up turbo vanes

Sadly nobody sells a faultless car

I have a well defined self preservation instinct especially for diesel spills, I'm not convinced this was the issue. I think this was brisk acceleration approaching a slight crest on a bend in the road with a strong cross wind, the wind suddenly got under the front end causing understeer. If this was a spill or road defect there would have been a pile of wrecked cars on the shelf at the location.

There were 2 adults and a child aboard, one suitcase for a long weekend, tyre pressures as standard for 215/60/16 Michelins, weather hot, road surface appeared consistent across the three lanes and was fine. I wasn't just hoofing it, as lifetime biker I have a gyroscope in my backside and notice road surface changes and grip levels. The car was not even slightly overloaded and I'd been at the speed limit for a good 5 minutes so the tyres weren't cold, I took the corner on a rising throttle as usual, acceleration from 60-70mph is quite brisk, and a great deal quicker than the Greenline which is of course a fair bit lower to start with. I will check today for a soft tyre, broken springs and leaking shocks.

I had an 8.5 hour drive home from Darkest Cornwall yesterday due to the sheer volume of traffic, this unexpected issue meant I need to 'hurry up a bit' when the road cleared. For the time in a combined 3 years of ownership (2 Yeti family) I had a squeeky bum moment in the car; if any of you are familiar with M5 junction 11a northbound (B carriageway) you'll know that the approach is slightly uphill with a gentle right hand bend at the top. Approaching the apex the front end went really light and understeered front lane 3, across lane 2 towards the shelf, if you've ever driven a Minor 1000 at speed and had the car lift you'll know the feeling. Not a nice moment, and never happened before and indeed didn't happen at a similar speed in the 1.6 tdi Greenline earlier in the year at the same place. Not a tyre issue as the car lifted as the top of the rise was approached, I don't think I have a broken front spring, and the dampers feel ok and not worn out. Anyone else noted this effect?

Fuel tank lift pump full of gunk ?

And they break VERY easily

@Bison I think you are suffering with sooted turbo vanes. There are options out there such as the fabled Mr Muscle treatment, or an intensive Archoil treatment in the tank over a few weeks/months. When squirting DPF cleaner into the oxygen sensor some of the foam expanded unintentionally back towards the turbo, following this the car was much more tractable and now runs down to 30mph in 5th without the shuddering you describe. (Not that I drive like this, it was a test!) I used K2 DPF cleaner at £14 delivered if you're interested.

😊 ah, bless If only

A friend ran his VAG laptop over my 1.6 Greenline, it confirmed an ash volume of x grams out of 60 grams, so I presume 60g is the limit. I think JLM DPF regen plus is the stuff you put in the tank rather than the stuff you squirt into the oxygen sensor on the DPF.

I share your frustration, I too have a very thirsty 1.6 Greenline, my average was in the 20's when i bought it. Over the past year I have changed MAP sensor, MAF sensor, n75 valve, checked turbo actuator pipes for cracks, remapped with EGR blocked, new injector, however the single best treatment in my experience was a DPF cleaner spray; the pipe is inserted through the oxygen sensor when the engine is cold - the whole can is sprayed in, the sensor replaced and left for 15 mins or so, the car is left at idle for 15 mins before a decent drive to blow the muck out The car now regens correctly, revs more freely and I'm getting average consumption in the mid-high 40's. My experiences, there will always be other opinions.

At idle and without touching the throttle pedal, the revs on my 2012 1.6tdi jump when the clutch pedal is depressed and released. Is that normal?

Thanks, so if the ECU is expecting the EGR to be closed I'm guessing any gasses entering the intake would mess up the fuelling ?

Question to the floor; If an engine has the EGR remapped out, does the EGR need to have the metal blanks to stop any gasses getting to the intake in place? How reliable is the claim that the EGR will be 100% closed?

Common VAG fault with several possible causes ranging from broken wires in the loom in the door jamb area, another known fault is the door module itself. When the door is next open please ensure the child lock system is OFF as the lock will totally fail at some point, and if this happens with the child lock on you are in a world of trouble. Wires in the door jamb can be checked for damage easily by pulling off the rubber bellows. Checking the lock involves removing the door card, inner door hanger, door glass and outside handle - to be honest if you go to this much hassle just have a replacement handy and swap it over anyway!

Part of a pack kept in VAG Road Assistance vans ...

I've got to change the n/s CV boot on my 1.6tdi Yeti, a job I will have to do on the drive and I'm not really looking forward to it. I've seen adverts for split CV boots that are placed over the driveshaft and then the split is glued up (vulcanized?) enabling the boot to be simply slid into place and fastened. Has anyone tried this, any experiences?

The airbag loom needed to be changed. The rest is pretty self explanatory - took an hour which included 20 mins letting the airbag 'relax'

I'm slowly getting our 2010 110hp Yeti S tdi in order, whilst replacing a failed cruise stalk today I took the opportunity to upgrade the steering controller (CQ is the old one, replaced with CF) and fit a MFSW. A little bit of VCDS coding and it's all working as it should, which is nice.

A downside of my council house spec Yeti is the lack of an armrest, a failing I fixed today; £20 in used parts off eBay (God love people who misspell items and get no bids ), and an hour of my time which included chats to nosey neighbours.