varooom

You want Version information from that screen

Welcome 🤝 Can you do 2 things, hold down your menu / setup key to enter hidden menu and let us know what your Software Train is Next is to try rebooting the unit, holding in the Volume knob iirc for at least 10 seconds until screen flashes off and then shows splash screen. A reboot never hurt.

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Cost about 7 Euro for 1hr, you can download the entire wiring and repair information.

Welcome and sorry to hear you have some issues, hopefully can be sorted.

In that case try on YouTube And as Pete has said, some pictures would help.

At least you have an A-B comparison, as you can probe one headlight (working) to get expected values for each wire. Then compare the same wire (with wiring diagrams) to see which Pin(s) are getting or not getting the supply Voltage. Prepare for a learning curve.

Welcome, That error code is for an open circuit or a short in wiring. Finding and fixing is another thing altogether. Do you have any experience with finding these wiring faults? Got any equipment to check Voltages?

https://www.skoda.co.uk/discover/contact-us Not sure how direct that would be, but could be a start. I am sure someone has a more direct email/phone number available.

If you can find someone local with VCDS or similar, and good knowledge, they should be able to swap it back to variable and input all the correct values for time and distance left xx Km and yyy days. Some might call it cheeky, but you could do this. You need to verify what oil was put in on the last change, so time to get paperwork out, odds are it has VW Spec XXX that is same as Long Life.

To change the region, you may have to recode parts on your car (that's AFAIK) Meanwhile, worth a look here and to begin download of EU map

You need to get a VIN and get that decoded if you want to find out if it was indeed meant for another market. If you PM me, I will see if I can get you that information whilst you are still in cooling off period.

I think that some will be in the minority like yourself, maybe 0.1% would like this (to pull back the wizard's curtain) I am lucky in that I have spent years tinkering with ETKA, and all that time I have wondered why there was never a toggle switch for changing a specification(s) of a car to see what retrofits can be done. The holy grail would be seeing both ends of the "machine" where you input human readable car specs to most of the population and the geeks can get the PR codes out the other end, that would be a retrofitters wet dream. @PetrolDave Yip type approval is a nightmare, sometimes VAG show these in their files, pages and pages of.

Welcome aboard 🤝

Welcome 🤝

I agree you generally do have bigger capacity AGM, longer life than with EFB types. Here is the VIN decoded results for my own car, the AGM has less Ah than the EFB. So there are certainly exceptions to the rule. If we circle back round to your original fault, then as I mentioned as has at least another person, you did most likely drain too much power from your battery that day. The car has been fine since, which I said it was likely to be, and you have now had testing done at the dealers and they also pass your battery and charging system. My advice back then is still the same as now, best carry a set of jump leads for a bit, but more than likely not going to be needing them for a while.

Stop start cars can use EFB or AGM, depending on several factors. Stop start does not automatically equal AGM only. My own car has AGM, but in the parts program, it shows EFB as a possible fitted choice. The car would need telling if it has EFB or AGM, and what ratings it has. Not really heard of self-learning, it will remember what is was programmed for, and try to charge accordingly. That's AFAIK, maybe someone knows different.

Good luck this weekend, hope you have a kind dealer, even without a printout a date would be helpful for you at the least. 🤝

It's 100% build date, as the car may have sat waiting for transport and possibly sat in a dock for months. Mainly for safety sake to make sure the possible combos fit your car. As for obtaining the date, if you also ask dealer for quote, they might even supply you a list of PR Codes, and in the document you should have a build date. They can do this when they use the parts program, just a few mouse clicks to "print" a PDF off. As seen in the example (of mine) for Date of Production TMBBF73T4F9051575.pdf

I guess you really can get a driving licence in the bottom of a cornflakes packet 🤐 Seen too many of these scenarios myself in a HGV (passenger) I never thought that people would fight with HGV, but it's amazing how many are totally clueless. Here we were approaching Dartford crossing, and someone in a car towing a caravan sideswiped us, carvan rocked side to side and he carried on oblivious. We stopped on other side of tunnel and called the police, and they didn't seem too bothered about a hit and run. Easy to see why we got hit, the moron couldn't see a massive HGV (who needs mirror extender right)

Here you go @Spudskoda here are the wheels that should fit your car. I would absolutely recommend checking your car was indeed registered before 29.05.2011 You should then be able to just fit one of the choices below that takes your eye. I do highly recommend that you try to get a quote from your dealers for 17" Alloys, that way they might send you the part numbers in the quote 😁

Here is image from program to show you year/character pattern The main reason is that you can find out choices that will fit the car for that MY (Manufacturing Year), and quite possibly the next MY they changed wheel hub perhaps and all the wheel choices then change. Here you find your actual build date becomes important to things >> - 29.05.2011 meaning fitted up to this date 30.05.2011>> meaning fitted from this date Given your existing part number, I would say your build date should be before this date range of 29.05.2011 Here is the 2012(C) document for 17" choices (pay attention to the dates mentioned above) SUP 2012(C) 17'' Alloy Wheel 601-070.pdf

Here is image from program to show you year/character pattern The main reason is that you can find out choices that will fit the car for that MY (Manufacturing Year), and quite possibly the next MY they changed wheel hub perhaps and all the wheel choices then change.

Has someone used any coolant flush/additives in the coolant system that you know of? Are you replacing with genuine VAG parts or some aftermarket sensor?

Just remember the 10th character of your VIN should be a "B" to make the above lists match, if you are on a "C" then let me know, will get that list in 17" (if that's your preference)

+3 for hill priority, majority of people do brake downhill/stop to allow those coming up to carry on. Sadly in some places common sense or good road manners are an urban myth... 🤔