varooom

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/116307/new-tyre-tread Talked about way back in 2016, new tyres are coming with less "meat" on them. As for an actual database of tread depths, rare as rocking horse droppings, might find something with more googling time.

Sorry trying to edit is being a pain. Made the guide to collate as much information in one thread as possible, so thanks very much for all your contributions, it will be very helpful when someone else is needing help. p.s. I have the SSP list, and then some more on top 😁

Loving the description there about surface of the Moon! There are plenty of videos about claying the car to watch on YouTube, so won't bother linking anything exactly. One thing in case they don't mention it, I myself just use enough force to just hold the clay bar against the paint, because to apply any pressure makes it then act like sandpaper itself! Of course you must then seal the paint afterwards, as any wax applied will have been removed.

Hold down menu key, and look in special menu for Software Train Also please use English in forum, thanks

If you run your hand along the paint, it should feel buttery smooth, anything you feel will be contamination for sure. You get all sorts of things on paint that sticks in, iron from railway tracks, industrial fallout, tree sap and of course tar flicked off road surfaces. I'd clay before you polish, as whatever your polishing pad removes, will be rubbed all over your paint. Clay bars "pull" the crap off the surface and "eat" it so to speak, so it's no longer being rubbed all over the surface. You absolutely must lubricate the clay bar as you use it. Folded regularly it's fine, and if you drop on the floor... Bin it, don't think the 3 second rule applies to it. They might upsell guard X and such, but costs them not a lot and you can buy products and do much better generally. As mentioned to @Samstan sometimes best to get it detailed fully and then maintaining that at home afterwards. That means never taking it to a swirl-o-matic machine washer.

Ah bitten also by the detailing bug! If possible, a machine polish to establish a baseline might be a good start, then just maintaining it from then on. I've always found VAG paint fairly robust, but maybe modern formula has changed. Claying will make paint feel smooth, your hand will easily feel the roughness near lower part of front door where the tyres kick up. Warm clay in hand, flatten to a disc, then using some quick detailer as lubricant, move clay in same direction as air flow. Fold clay regularly and rinse repeat. No doubt plenty of YouTube guides to watch, key is to keep it from drying up and "snagging" so plenty of lubrication (no puns intended)

I was lurking for 12 years! Welcome 🤗

By hand you basically need a hand polish that you can apply by hand, with some elbow grease and wipe off. The below example is not too bad, it will polish up minor scratches and contains fillers to cover up some small scratches, so when the light reflection hits you, you no longer appear to see it. https://www.autoglym.com/super-resin-polish (Apply very, very thinly, less is more) If you wasn't in Wales, then you could have popped round for a polish, as I have a machine (never know if someone on here is local enough and willing to assist) Anyhow, properly maintaining your car's shine can lead you down a rabbit hole! We're talking 2 bucket method washing. Claying the car to remove industrial fallout and such, road tar spots. Washing again. Microfiber drying cloths. Polishing. Washing again possibly. Applying a sealant. Applying a good wax. Wishing you never asked, as your Sundays now belong to your car.

Think of all the mods you can perform (physically and coded) Welcome!

Yes for sure 👌

Rather than post every PR Code combo, here's how VAG measures pad thickness, and you can also see how many mm you can loose off the discs too So @JR RS you should be looking a min pad 2mm, as they don't include backing plate as specified. For comparison to above example from @roottoot here are VAG specs

This is all the information I can find, someone else should confirm the values, but look correct to me

No problems, best of luck. You may wish to post any future faults in this location (if mods to move post) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/

I was actually looking at some of the faults with A/C (mine works fine thankfully) A little but of googling today got me here. Link Not sure how good the article is, maybe a "little too much information" for some, but does show some of the things that can happen. Posted to help others that come across the many A/C threads that pop up in the Summer.

VCDS and VCP user list Look at this thread and reach out to the nearest available to you.

I shall send you a private message in a few minutes MU is "version"

You should hold down the menu key and enter special mode to get Software Train information I think you have MSTD_EU_SK_P6230_0421 written as your Software Train MSTD_EU_SK_P6230_0490 is available

Let me check PC again, and send you link in a few minutes.

It's easier (read faster) to remove air than add 👌 I presume you need higher pressure because when braking it will transfer the weight of the caravan/trailer into the car, and therefore onto the wheels. As @roottoot mentioned, if it feels really "off" then drop a little front pressure, but just beware under breaking it will transfer the energy forward.

The manual states run the "full load" settings when towing, so whatever is in your fuel filler flap (if not missing)

You have PM with 0369 version I can send you version 0480 in next few minutes

@Naseem Please watch this video again Watch from 1m 30s where he enters the special menu with holding MENU key. I need you to verify your exact Software Train please, MIB Admunsen is not correct value.

Can you confirm that your existing firmware is MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0367T

Thanks will look when near PC

Welcome, glad you're enjoying your car