varooom

Welcome, hope you get some help with your car if you need it 🤝

I did wonder if that was the case, glad you posted to help OP 🤝

erWin Skoda for wiring diagrams and repair information then.

Nice work, and write up for others

Graham, you realise that you're saying it accepted and saved the coding? If correct, you won't need any Skoda dealer/garage to adapt the battery.

Well we have @ords whose car is still on it's original battery after 10 years, so any "issues" will be down to abuse of the battery. My own AGM 096 original battery was over 7 years old when I changed it prematurely as I didn't want to be stranded anywhere. If you want to hack the battery, my only suggestion is to code the Ah rating higher. Why? Because we had someone whose battery got coded as 7Ah not 70Ah and it refused to charge, as it was measuring "full" once programmed to 70Ah it charged, so by extension, you may have to increase the Ah rating above target to make it charge above 80% SOC. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO THIS AT ALL.

Best of luck with it.

If you are into your modifications, you could change that for a tray with door? Part 51, is your current bracket, maybe this could be swapped to Part 15.

First post has a PDF, and instructions on page 1. Download and absorb, it's a good write up.

https://static.garmincdn.com/autoOem/skoda/docs/UserManualUK.pdf Section 4, there seems to be a way to reset if forgotten. A little more google-fu might find the reset process if not in that manual.

If you have the round projector style headlights, then most will retrofit a HID kit to get past the two candles in the wind.

Welcome to the forum, glad you like your Superb, great cars 🤝

Welcome to the forum 🤝

Sent link, but don't expect miracles

0.02 degree, was looking at same catalog just the other day. With you on your call to suspend the belts on ACT versions.

Welcome 🤝

You will have better luck in the night to get pictures of beams. So you will need to cover a headlight and take picture, then cover opposite and take a picture, and a final picture of both together when facing a wall. If the ground is level, you can measure the height of the middle of the beam from floor, let's say 45cm, and measure thr distance to wall, and it's 5m, the beam should drop 1cm per metre of distance if it's marked as a 1% on top of headlight. So the beam should have dropped 5cm, making height on wall of 40cm from floor. The headlights might need recalibration, which needs diagnostic software to put it into learning mode usually. Could be a wiring fault not seen between sensors and headlights. Basically several potential things really. Might be best if you can locate a Briskoda member with VCDS or similar that's willing to assist in reading car, and possibly during a dark evening. Try to follow above advice, that @softscoopmentioned originally about a wall, fleshed out above.

HV levels Level one is instruction. Level two is able to discharge. Level three can open battery packs.

Dealers don't like people who bring in scanned codes, and think that only the dealer tool is the authority. Before ODIS, they used VAS-PC (19 major versions of that)

There could be several reasons, when you replaced the DPF sensor, did you or the garage blow air through the lines to clear any potential blockage? The 158,000km means that the DPF should not be clogged up with oil ash, and still have more life left in it.

Hopefully they have a computer they can plug in to read any fault codes, if not someone not too far away will have VCDS or similar to read out any faults that maybe lurking in the car, Best of luck, and hopefully sorted soon.

I would see if they do the "dance" mentioned by Softscoop, as I am sure if they don't it will show you there's an issue. We have had a few similar posts where the culprit was the level sensor arm snapped, so it's locked in one position and the car then knows it's out of spec, or it keeps it aimed low as the reading is out of range. The live on rear axle and front axle areas, you should be able to see the rear if you drop down low NS and see if the arm is intact (you won't be able to move of course, unless snapped) Once you see that one, and how it looks, you can then look at the front. It's a Passat, but the tech is same really

The shutter is not the issue, as it it either "closed" where it covers half the bulb output and you get the nice sharp cuttoff, and when it full beam, the shutter flips horizontally allowing the full light output to come out. This sounds like your headlight levelling system has gone astray, it happens where the sensor on the axle snaps (or the wire is not sending signal) the dip beam will default to aiming at the floor close to the car. Replace bulbs in pairs, as the light output fades in time (as mentioned by Softscoop) Image of the rear sensor, might be an idea to take a look (nearside iirc)

I think a level 3 qualification means they are allowed to open the battery cover as this is the most dangerous point, as the risk of creating a short circuit is at the maximum. I have asked a friend who I know has opened these to ask him what a level 3 means in real terms.

This is most likely going to be a fault in the car driver loom from body to door, it's a well known weak point. So you may need to pop open the rubber grommet and inspect the wires for breaks. I don't think the poor garage who swapped the battery will be to blame, though could be a good idea to check the terminals are secure on top of battery and Earth's are good an healthy.