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JR RS

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Everything posted by JR RS

  1. The VAG app version is better suited to us, i.e. VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat etc etc. Hence the VAG name for the app. The other one is less useful as it's more generic to cater for other car brands too. It does different stuff, but not as useful when it comes to Long Coding and Adaptations that u use with the Pro.
  2. Make sure u get the right LCA cause Golf, A3, S3 etc LCAs r too short for the Superb.
  3. They r two versions of the OBDEleven app - OBDEleven VAG vs OBDEleven OBD2 I'm using the OBDEleven VAG version, Google Pixel phone (Android). I have a Pro lifetime account.
  4. The following rows r switched power, i.e. with ignition. I used #47 for mine ....
  5. LCA for Golf, A3,S3 etc etc r the wrong size for the Superb. As u saw, it's short. Unlike other suspension components - LCAs r not compatible with the mk3 Superb. In the diagrams below, u can see L2 is considerably shorter for the Golf, compared to Superb. The rest of the measurements r similar or the same.
  6. haven't contemplated going stronger internals - i think its still within the "max" limits. fingers crossed. front splitter is Rieger. same as the side skirts.
  7. Go to Settings in your OBD app, towards the bottom there is an option called Control Unit -> "Unlock SFD automatically". default is "Disable" i'm assuming changing that to Enable should cover u. as far as i know - facelift mk3 Superb have SFD on some control units.
  8. good idea on being safe and going with a reliable map. the last thing u want is a cooked engine!! i always love a good burble. snap-crackle-pop!! yup, i still have the Superb - will b 9 yrs next month. 😁 i'll b keeping it for more years to come. i'm now running a Stage 3 setup. Garrett Powermax Stg 1 turbo, upgraded injectors and spark plugs. Galano ECU & TCU tunes. when dyno'ed, at the wheels it's making 400 hp and 550 Nm. figures will b higher at the flywheel. mine being FWD, there is only so much power i can put down through the front wheels, but Galano's Boost-by-Gear trickery does a good most of the time.
  9. Well done. Good strong results there. When mine (FWD 220) was Stage 2, it was making (at the flywheel) approx. 360 hp & 560 Nm. Galano ECU & TCU tune, IE intercooler, Racingline R600 intake, TIP elbow and APR TIP.
  10. As @Danoid indicated, that bit of the dogbone mount is meant to move like that with the engine. That won't b the cause of the horrible sounds. U can get a dogbone insert that will firm up the movement, but as I said - it won't b the culprit. @Danoid - I didn't replace mine, but I got a 034 Motorsport aluminium lower insert which sits around the existing bushing.
  11. That's because when I created those instructions at the time it wasn't possible via VCDS. I've never got confirmation that it has been done successfully via VCDS, so I haven't updated my instructions. Nonetheless, the steps r essentially the same, just different interface.
  12. DCC Recalibration can b done with OBDEleven and apparently VCDS too.
  13. The link to my build page goes in detail, but yes - u lose a lot of coolant. I had to top up with almost a 1L back in.
  14. Over the weekend I replaced the plastic coolant vent union adaptor with a metal version. Preventative measure really as these things r known to fail cause it is located right next to the hot turbo. More info about it here. Comparison.... Fitted....
  15. Another preventative measure tackled over the weekend - replacing the failure prone plastic coolant vent union adaptor. The factory plastic adaptor, given it's location right next to the hot turbo, is prone to crack and failure eventually, resulting in coolant leaks or loss. After 8 yrs, turns out the plastic adaptor on Gandalf was still in good condition, including the O-ring. Replacement part is made of aluminium. I got an 034 Motorsport version, but there r plenty of other options. Whilst I was at it, I also changed the rubber hose pipe that attaches to it. Changing it is easier by removing the coilpack harness out of the way so u can easily access the vent union adaptor. That said, it is still a very tight spot being in the "valley"!! Also, have a 1L bottle of coolant ready as u'll loose a lot of coolant in the process - hence u need to top up. In my case, G12Evo (G12E050A2) Part Numbers:- Vent Coolant Union Adaptor - 034-102-Z048. Replaces factory part number 06K 121 143 Coolant Union Adaptor Hose - 06K121051M Spring Clamps - N90686701 Replacement bits.... Comparison.... Factory one removed.... Aluminium replacement in place....
  16. MY19 is MIB2.5 infotainment. MY21 is MIB3 infotainment. Likely something has changed with MIB3.
  17. The issue was on MY15 & MY16 models. The rear door chrome trim gets pushed forward over time, until eventually it fouls with the front door, subsequently getting ripped off when the front door is opened. They resolved this from MY17 onwards.
  18. When buying the top grille b careful as they come in 3 parts - the grille, the grille surround and the radar cover. Most places sell these separately. There r two versions of each part - Sportline (black) version and non-Sportline (chrome + black) version. Hence u need to make sure u get the right combo. U can find them on AliExpress, eBay plus others. Kopacek sell the surround and cover.
  19. I've been using a Wheel hanger for years n years n years. I remove my wheels often, that this was a must. Makes it so much easier to remove and put the wheel back on/off the hub. A must also for those who use spacers. I don't use spacers anymore, since changing to aftermarket rims - but it's still super helpful for any rims. It's good for ur back n legs too cause ur not straining to position and align the holes. This is the wheel hanger on the rear axle.
  20. u can actually swap out the button set alone, however it's a lot more faffing around. they're not that expensive. steering clockspring on the other hand is quite expensive if u went from heated to non-heated, or vice-versa. i was lucky that i got the version i got secondhand, for the price of peanuts, from a mate. brand new it costs way too much and i'm sure i would not have done this retrofit if i had to pay that price!! umm....don't know, sorry. on mine, the voice assist is on the left side, next to the volume scroll button. the car assist button is on the right side, above the Phone symbol.
  21. Found the discussion here. Part number of the flat-bottomed steering wheel I got was 565 419 091 E BGW
  22. @Binx1310 - if u didn't have heated steering wheel before and then get one with - u'll need to change the clockspring as well, plus coding. @Sko101 - yes u can use one from an Octavia vRS. That's wat I did about 3-4 yrs ago. I replaced my round wheel with a flat-bottomed wheel from an Octavia vRS, with paddle shifters. As @Binx1310 mentioned above - u need to make sure it the right version otherwise ur current airbag will not fit the wheel. I think pre-MY19 should b ok. Also, given urs is MY16, make sure u look at wheels without the "VIEW" button. I'll dig up the part number I used and share it soon. Mine is MY17
  23. MY15 & MY16 models can't do ambient light matching. They can physically only do 3 colors. That came from MY17 onwards, with the 10 colour option. If u want that, u need to physically change the ambient light LED modules in the door cards and dash. BCM is also a factor.

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