JR RS

Lol, that is totally not the case!! I'm not sure how u r getting ur "wires crossed"!!! I've hard wired my dashcam to the fuse box, and it was very simple and straightforward - down the A-pillar and into the fuse box behind the glove box. The hardest part was putting the A-pillar piece back in its place. The first time I wired it to a switched fuse location, #47 I then changed it to a permanent power source because I put a power magic pro. Fuse box...... Grounding.... Wiring in the A-pillar...

Crikey....that's two 2017 Superbs here in Oz with faded yellow DRLs!! Mine is a 2017 model too, but it's still behaving..... touchwood. In fact, I retrofitted even older headlights in mine, one manufactured in 2015 and the other in 2016 - because I retrofitted SLA headlights.

Yes it will throw an error if there's a problem, but then it will b obvious with the actual lights not working, or flickering. In ur case, the yellowness - it is not a symptom of a faulty module, at least I doubt it.

It's a common problem with 280/272 models unfortunately. Being AWD, the fuel tank is "split in two", which in turn doesn't vent properly, causing this issue.

Yes u can, via the Infotainment, under Opening & Closing settings......

With mine - I can see the beam pattern change after I come to a stop. I can see it on the rear bumper of the car in front. Usually about 2-3 secs after I've come to a complete stop. Mine being a RHD, it's the right headlight (driver's side) that changes pattern by moving the beam slightly inwards, after stopping. I haven't noticed the left beam change/move.

It's the same behavior with the mk3. It does all those things with AFS2, plus more if u have SLA headlights which does matrix like masking using MDF tech. Explanation in this video... https://youtu.be/2kFSuBWGCuY Yes it does. It's called AFS2 lighting.

Yup, that's crap headlight alignment. This is how mine looks... https://youtu.be/fkRcEJIVlJU

Awesome work @IgorDeLuxe u've certainly refreshed the interior of ur MY16 Superb!!

There 3 modules on each headlight - 2x drivers and 1x ballast. U could try replacing each of the drivers, but it will b trial and error as to which one, and likely an expensive exercise. They might also need coding and/or parameterization. Based on my SLA headlight retrofit, I would look at the modules (LED driver) with part number 8U0941329, assuming u have the Version A headlights. If u have Version B, then it's 4H0941329.

Discoloured LEDs, even Xenons r not caused by the AFS Slave modules (driver) or ballast. If it's a faulty driver - the LEDs will stop working altogether, or it will flicker, misbehave.

As far as I know, u can't replace or fix the DRL illumination separately. It's literally part of the headlight assembly, and can't accessed unless u open up the headlight unit.

I would recommend u post this question in the Superb mk2 forum.

thank u i already have a black rear spoiler, as per the pics - however mine is not the original sportline version. i got this one from AliExpress. regarding black mirror caps - i won't b changing mine as i prefer the body-coloured version. it goes with my theme of grey-black-chrome

@Superb01- reliability should b fine given the DQ250 can handle up to 600Nm with software tuning alone, by dealing with clutch pressure points and shift algorithms. Above 600 then u need to upgrade the clutch. The torque values were higher than I expected. Not sure if it's because of the Hi-torque tune combined with the DSG tune. No, sadly I don't have times apart for the 0-100 and 80-120 4th gear test. Being a FWD, traction off the line is no good with that much power. Best time was 5.9 sec. The best time for the 80-120 was 3.10 secs. Happy with this.

This is my 220 MY17 Superb with an APR Stage 1 Hi-torque tune, and an APR DSG tune. Did 3x runs, each run produced similar results - 220kW (300hp) 530Nm. Outside air temp was 20°c. U can see in the graph that the small IS20 running out of puff after approx 4800 rpm. The IAT gets higher each time too, making the ECU limit power after a while.

My 6 yr old MY17 has no squeaks creaks or groan around the dash, or anywhere else. Although recently, the rear parcel shelf is starting to creak when taking bumpy corners.

Wow......that's a lot happening to ur car!!! How effective is the soft close door addition?

@DomVH- hard to tell if the pothole hit has done something. Best is to get the car scanned to b sure of wat is going on. I got myself a CTEK Battery Sense monitor. Connects directly to ur car battery and u can monitor (via Bluetooth) it live using an app on ur phone. More for peace of mind as my battery is 3 yrs old now.

Yes u can. U'll need to upgrade ur MIB2 infotainment unit (headunit + screen) to the MIB2.5 unit. Then u can get the Virtual Cockpit dash. U'll also need to remove component protection.

The Start-Stop not working due to cold weather is pure BS!! I live in Canberra, and it gets below zero here plenty of times, and Start-Stop is not affected. Sydney weather is nowhere near cold enough to affect that. The only time mine has been affected was when my battery started to run low. When u do change the battery, yes, u must perform a battery adaptation using a tool such as VCDS or OBDEleven. Otherwise the Skoda Service centre may do it for u. The other behaviors ur car is showing is strange indeed, and usually things start to play up when the battery is on its way out. When was ur battery changed? What is it's current State Of Charge? Should b close to 80% for a healthy battery. If it's not the battery, then something else more sinister is occurring. Again, u'll need VCDS or OBDEleven to run a full scan to see if any error codes r present.

For starters, ur setup isn't good!! U shouldn't b running different sized tyre profiles between from and rear. Why have u done that? U r running odd tyre sizes, front and back. Also 225 wide tyres is not recommended on the 8" wide rims, which the Superb uses. Standard tyre size on the 19" rims r 235/40/19. Many have upsized to 245/40/19 tyres, including myself. It's more comfortable, cheaper, easier to find, and reads closer to the true GPS speed.

Turns out it was more times than i realized!! I've removed it so many times cause I'm a nutcase, but reasons were... - to retrofit Smart Light Assist headlights - to fit Rieger front splitter - to remove lower grille centre chrome bit to plasti-dip it black - to change the upper grille surround from chrome to black - to open up the blocked air flow duct behind the grille ...so yeah, plenty of practice

Tools r minimal - u just need a torx screw, and it's the same size for the wheel arch liner, bumper and under tray screws. The headlights use torx screws as well, but r slightly bigger. U won't break anything if done properly. I've removed my bumper about 3-4 times now, and haven't snapped or broken anything. The tricky part is making sure not to hit or bump the ACC radar sensor whilst removing or putting the bumper back. It looks like this...... Good luck

Would b happy to answer, but as u say, mine is the pre-facelift Superb. Nonetheless, I'd imagine most of it would b the similar. The key difference with the bumper being the foglights and the surrounding grille. I've attached the how-to guide. It might help. Unfortunately the bumper off requires front jacked up and front wheels off. Removing Front Bumper.pdf