JR RS

no IS38 on the horizon for me, instead i'll b going for APR's DTR6054 turbo but first i need the bigger APR intercooler.

Video of one of the runs.... https://youtu.be/N7ljdj-QZQA

Ah I c wat u mean. The problem is that the intake air temp (IAT) would get too high, and then the ECU would pull back and cut the power - that's why ur seeing the rapid death!! Problem is the small IS20 turbo gets too hot too quickly and the stock intercooler can't cool it quick enough. Bigger turbo will generate less heat too early, enabling the engine to pull for longer and die so quickly. Upgraded intercooler will aid in keeping those high temps down.

Yes not me doing it - it is the guy who owns the dyno machine, who does countless Golfs (GTi, R) and Audis (RS, S, Q). i reckon he knows a thing or two about what he is doing.

i think the blower speed was in between - wasn't a breeze nor was it gale force. Yeah, i'm pleasantly surprised with the nice high torque figures, then again, i do have the "Hi-torque" APR Stage 1 tune (as shown in the graph), and coupled with the APR DSG tune, its allowing Gandalf to produce that much power.

I put Gandalf on the Dyno as I was curious to see how much power it was actually making with the APR Stg 1 ECU tune and DSG tune. I'm happy with the results. The torque was higher than I expected. Outside Air temp was 20 degrees. Did 3x runs. Each time it did approx. 220 kw and 530 Nm. Being the stock IS20 turbo and intercooler, the Intake Air Temps (IAT) was getting too high, making the ECU reduce power towards the end, as u can see in the graph. A larger intercooler will help vastly with sustaining the power curve for much longer. Tis next on the cards. Max: 222.7 kW / 532.3 Nm

I put Gandalf on the Dyno today as I was curious to see how much power it was actually making with the APR Stg 1 ECU tune and DSG tune. I'm happy with the results. The torque was shigher than I expected. Outside Air temp was 20 degrees. Did 3x runs. Each time it did approx. 220 kw and 530 Nm. Being the stock IS20 turbo and intercooler, the Intake Air Temps (IAT) was getting too high, making the ECU reduce power towards the end, as u can see in the graph. A larger intercooler will help vastly with sustaining the power curve for much longer. Tis next on the cards. Max: 222.7 kW / 532.3 Nm

Provided u get the same before and after "specs" then no. i.e. if u went from round with paddles to flat-bottomed with paddles Or If u went from round heated to flat-bottomed heated. However, if u went from round non-heated to flat-bottomed heated, then u'll need to change the steering clock-spring and do coding.

I have an MY17 - I can open and close the boot with the key fob. It won't work if I'm inside the car and use the key fob. I need to b at least 3 m or less away from the car for it to work.

I notice the the facelift is using different ACC hardware/software. I've got this on my pre-facelift MY17..... 13 Adaptive Cruise Control System description: ACC BOSCH MQB Software number: 3Q0907572C Software version: 0195 Hardware number: 3Q0907572C Hardware version: H04 ODX name: EV_ACCBOSCHVW48X ODX version: 001009 Long coding: 320147C355FFC428949C8045 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found

+1 i often drive in Manual mode, and i've never had to downshift into 1st. i'll drop down to 2nd, and when i'm almost at a standstill, the car will automatically drop it down to 1st, seamlessly.

Do u have Air Care on ur Superb, and if so, is it Active?

+1 My Superb MY17 also doesn't have the ACC long coding for Cruise Control mode.

Yup, been well aware of that since day 1. It's just annoying that it gets alarmed and hits the brakes, and by the time I tap the accelerator to override, the cars behind r swearing at me for braking for no bl00dy reason!!! The coding makes the driving less "erratic" and safer.

Bl00dy 'ell!! An easier solution would've been to go into Convenience Opening settings for Windows Operation in the infotainment and turning it off!! Now u've butchered ur key fob!

I like this feature - tis the small things that make the driving experience more enjoyable. I love the ACC - very useful and handy to have over the conventional cruise control. The only thing I hated about it initially was the undertaking prevention, where it would brake when there is car braking/slowing in the adjacent lane. Was annoying that the car would brake to match it's speed. I promptly disabled this using VCDS.

+1 MY15 and MY16 models are restricted to 3 colours only. MY17 onwards came with the 10 colours, and u can use VCDS/OBDEleven to increase that 30 colours. the hardware is different, hence u can't go from 3 to 10 (or 30) colour version with just coding.

+1 I did the same with mine - got the AliExpress rear boot spoiler. So far so good and it's still holding strong and not fading.

It's pretty easy to do. There is one torx screw holding it in. Remove that, and slide the footrest upwards to unhook it from the side. Should come out.

I've got 19s on my Superb, and it's very comfortable with the DCC setup. It is more comfortable than the 18s I had my MK2 Octavia RS. It's going to b 6 yrs and my 19s don't look faded or dull. I don't wash my car often enough. On the Superb - the 19s not look great and ride great.

If the car has DCC shocks, it's suspension is 10mm lower than the Standard setup without DCC. Was explicitly mentioned in the brochure.

thank you once again @varooom so 3W3 is the one. i do have under bonnet insulation too, hence the 2B1. cheers 🙂

sadly we don't get the L&K version here in Australia. however we got a lot of options as standard, and option packs to add on top. so whilst mine is officially a "Style" (according to mySkoda app, and erWin), it has most of the things that u c on the L&K. regarding the insulation padding in the wheel arch - i'm not sure what classes they've got going. i couldn't find anything obvious in my vehicle build sheet apart from "2B1 - Additional exterior noise suppression" and "3W3 - Special interior noise suppression". not sure if that has any influence.

Mine came with the foam on the wheel arch liners. I added some extra sound deadening material on it, just cause I had leftover material.

Scandinavian mode will not activate the headlight DRL eyelashes / whiskers. The facelift Superb has a completely different headlight setup and electronics compared to the pre-facelift Superb - hence there is no point following VCDS or OBDEleven steps/apps for a pre-facelift. U'll just end up stuffing things up. Unfortunately I have no idea about how this can b activated on the facelift Superbs. I have it activated on my pre-facelift and I Iove the look of the eyelashes/whiskers.