JR RS

I don't understand how the headlight washers r going to complicate it as it is attached to the front bumper. Removing the front bumper brings with it the piping and headlight washers. U will have to remove the crash bar to remove the AC condenser though.

Nice work @almar any pics? i did a similar thing, but i just snaked the wire through the pre-made factory hole inside the armrest storage console. i can keep the rear console cubby closed, so its out of sight and out of the way too.

Yeah, I don't like that either. I had modified my front mud flaps successfully for the Rieger side skirts, but I couldn't do the rear mud flaps properly after I put rear bumper valance. So I had to remove my mud flaps altogether. Tis a shame as the sides of my car gets a lot of crap thrown up on the sides now. This was before, when I had the mud flaps.

Excellent reinforcements u've done there. I've heard various stories about the poor instructions and fixtures that come with various Maxton products. The Rieger products r great in that regard, hence why I went with Rieger side skirts and front splitter.

Make sure Auto Hold is enabled. Button is on the centre console.

Nice work. I did that recently too - but not the Alcantara version. I didn't disconnect the battery when I did mine. Much better look n feel, and the Leyo Paddle Shifters finish it off nicely.

i'm using a ultta short 90-degree ultra-thin USB-C to USB-A cable. got it from AliExpress. in my case - on long journeys, the car's in-built wireless charger is not sufficient to keep up, and if it does, which it barely does, then the phone gets too hot after a while from the wireless charging, hence it stops charging. i've got a Pixel 5 (no phone case). hence if i'm driving more than an hr, i always used the wired charging cable which i have setup inside the armrest console storage (usb power sourced from rear storage console).

The AAWireless is such a great device, so convenient, handy and issue/mess free. I've had mine for almost 2 years now. Love it.

👍 yup, exactly wat i was referring to earlier

Just remember that pulling the DSG lever back only engages the Engine/Drive to Sport mode. It's not the same as selecting the Sport Driving Profile, which is done via the Infotainment. The Driving Profile method changes other characteristics such as steering, suspension, lighting, etc. etc. This can only be done via the Infotainment, for the Superb.

Awesome - a happy ending 🙂

Thanks. Was an idea I thought of and wanted to try. I think I like it. Hence I used gloss black vinyl wrap, easy to do and I can easily remove. Plasti-dip is too much work (prep) and time (too many coats).

That is normal behavior - u can't open or close the boot with the key fob from the inside. U can't close the boot using the centre console button either. U can however, depending on ur boot lid module version, enable the close using the centre console button. There is a whole thread about it.

Those holes r used to fit under trays, as u have on the other side. But when there is an exhaust, u can't put an under tray. Those holes r also used to fit aftermarket rear bumper side skirts, such as these.

U will have no scrubbing at all with the ET35. I've put 15mm spacers on my 8x19 ET44 and they were fine.

The factory 19s that r available on the Superb r 8.0J x 19“ ET44. Hence the same size with an ET35 will stick out 9mm more. Compared to ur current setup, the Audi wheels will stick out 6mm.

Ah yes, I forgot that bit. Thanks for clarifying.

Some pics of Gandalf after a morning run....

Some pics of Gandalf after a morning run.....

On the 220, there is no under tray or cover behind the wheel arches, on either side. The exhaust takes up most of the room. If ur wheel arch liner is properly secured to the rear bumper, then there shouldn't b much movement. Some slight flex, yes.

U really need VCDS or OBDEleven, or a mechanic/friend who has one n scan ur car for the actual error. Ur assuming it's the levelling sensor that is kaput. Maybe it is. Maybe it isn't. Have u physically gone under the car and looked at the sensors at least? Make sure they r positioned the right way. There r 3 in total. One on each front suspension lower arm. Then on the left rear suspension arm. Front left Front right Rear left

All good and good luck. Just b mindful that some haven't had much success with doing the DCC recalibration using OBDEleven. It might take a few attempts before u get a "Done" message. Make sure u make note of the live values before and after, to b sure it's done the recalibration.

I highly recommend the "Superb Ghost" lights from Kopacek as they add a nice touch, without loosing any shine on to the ground.

Did u do the battery adaptation after changing the battery?

U don't need to have the DCC recalibrated. It improves the ride if u do it, otherwise everything will continue to work, just won't b optimum. I didn't get mine recalibrated until 6 months after I had the springs put in. It takes 2 secs to actual recalibrated. U just need OBDEleven, and 4x jack stands.