JR RS

Phwoahhhh.....I had to put my sunnies on to c that!! 😎 Wat colour is that?

I got 4 yrs, 52k kms, out of the factory P7 Cintarato tyres. Still had life in them for another 10k kms or so, but I changed to ContiMaxContacts 6 because I wanted to change the profile to 245/40/19. I definitely don't drive like a granny.

it has been raining every second week, light rain, heavy rain, wind, bird poop, tree poop/leaves - u name it. just no hail stones!!

I agree - Silver is the best to hide dirt. Mine is Business Grey. I had the option to buy Silver but declined it. I wanted Quartz Grey originally, but it would've been an a 6 month wait, from factory. So Business Grey it was.....and I love it. Not only does it hide the dirt....from far, it has so much depth and many shades, across the panels.

I haven't washed Gandalf in over 2 months so far, and it's filthy - yet Gandalf still looks acceptable in this pic, which I took last weekend!!

It's not a default thing and has to b coded in via VCDS or OBDEleven.

Yup, it does. The Mode button switches between ACC radar cruise and Speed Limiter cruise. The Speed Limiter cruise sucks because it won't let u accelerate beyond the set speed, no matter how much throttle u give it. As previously indicated - it would've been nice if a 3rd option could b selected with mode button, to have regular cruise control.

Wat about for us international peeps? Though shipping would b a concern. I would b certainly interested in having my torch light changed from yellow to white. I already changed to Kopacek boot lights. It bugs me every time I open the boot.

I removed the A-pillar trim, a few years ago, to run the dashcam wire down it. The clips were fine to re-use and the trim piece itself is nice n solid in it's place.

My MY17 Superb does this already. It will cut the engine before the car has come to a complete stop. When the Start-Stop is active with ACC engaged, it will restart the engine when the car infront starts moving.

I prefer the gloss black over carbon effect. I've got Rieger front lip and side skirts. The front lip is screwed on with 20 odd screws. The side skirts use automotive sikaflex adhesive and the same lower screw points as the mudflaps.

Yup, the power delivery is early and then drops off courtesy of the small turbo, and to an extent, the factory intercooler. The small turbo generates too much heat too early, in turn the intercooler isn't up to the job, thus increasing the intake air temps (IAT). The ECU sees this and reduce boots, power drops. The outside ambient air temp was 20 deg Celsius when we did the runs. The IATs were getting hotter after each run. Not surprised. I wasn't expecting it to hold steady all through the rev band. A bigger turbo will help to prolong that power delivery. Likewise a larger intercooler will also aid in sustaining the power band longer. My next move is to get a larger intercooler, but I'll b looking at doing that towards the end of our winter.

I've watched lots of factory build videos, and in all of them almost every single place gets painted. Even in the engine bay, the robot lifts up the bonnet, and the engine bay gets a lick of paint. U can see it in this video for the facelift Superb, from about 2:18 mark Same with other Skoda models. Same with other brands/manufacturers

i recently put my Superb 220 on a dyno run, as i curious to see how much power it was making with an APR Stg 1 ECU tune and APR DSG tune. 3x runs, each time doing approx. 222 kW (299 hp) & 532 Nm (393 ft lbs), at the wheel. one of the runs...... Pretty happy with those numbers, given its mostly software. power is bang on as expected, based on APR's claims. torque is more than i expected. i was expecting between 490 to 500 Nm. as u said, for a FWD - 0-60 times r nonsense!! prior to getting the DSG tune done on mine, the 80-120 km/h time dropped from 5.8 to 3.4 secs, with the Stage 1 tune.

that is certainly strange. the engine bay should b the same as the body colour as that is how it gets painted by the dancing robots!! yes, even the hinges should b body coloured!!! not a great shot of mine, but u can make out the engine bits, apart from the plastic bits, r not black.....

For the pre-facelift Superb, sadly there is no LED option. Only the facelift version comes with proper LED headlights. U could replace ur xenon bulbs with LED bulbs, but I would not recommend it as they require massive heat sinks or fans and get very hot. U won't b able to put the headlight cover at the back on, meaning it's no longer sealed, allowing dirt & water to get inside the unit. I got my Phillips XtremeVisions from Powerbulbs. Awesome company to deal with. Lots of sales/deals. Fast shipping. Highly recommended.

Sounds like u need to replace ur xenon bulbs because a Superb with well aligned beams and good bulbs is great. If u do upgrade ur xenons - get Osram Xenarcs or Phillips XtremeVisions. I upgraded mine to XtremeVision Gen2 many many years ago and they're brilliant. U can see footage of it here.

I believe u need to remove the door card and unclip it from the inside.

the DTR6054 is drop in turbo that is easy to transition from an IS20. works with the existing factory components, including factory intercooler if desired and reuses factory wastegate and diverter valve. although, to make the most of the turbo, an upgraded intercooler, intake and TCU tune is recommended. i just need to upgrade my intercooler as i've already done the others. comes with the stage 3 software, which also has the optional FWD file that will limit wheel spin by limiting how torque hits. i had a conversation with the APR tuner here, and they say that it is perfect for my setup.

That's a standard AFS thing for all Bi-Xenon headlights - up down left right calibration checking, at each startup, of the headlight motors. If u had version B headlights (by the way, Skoda calls it SLA, not DLA), in addition to startup dance, it tests the rollers and makes a U-shape. See video.... https://youtu.be/Yu1Hpecfv10

Ur camera looks right. Headlights, as mentioned by @Lutz_91, we can't see the actual part number. It should look like this.....

@SomethingSuperbly- i have the pro version of OBDEleven. I never use the app credits, never will. Adaptations and long codings only for me, that way I know exactly wat is being done at every step.

Now, let me consider the options here..... 1. Drop the gearbox into 1st so I can engine brake whilst moving, to come to a stop Or 2. Leave the gearbox in 2nd and use the brakes to come to a stop, and let the gearbox automatically drop into 1st when it's ready. I know which one I'll b doing as I'd much prefer to replace brake pads & rotors, rather than having the mechatronics replaced.

For those who want to know how to do the coding after changing the battery, using OBDEleven or VCDS, follow the instructions in the link below. It's very important to set the Rated Battery Capacity and the Battery Technology type. For AGM batteries, make sure u select "Fleece". https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/4252/coding-new-battery I've got an EFB+ battery, so mine is set accordingly.

+1 for the perforated leather. It is a little bit more nicer to look at, plus it matches the perforated leather seats.