JR RS

@numskull, @dunc69, @lmb, @Lutz_91 - u guys would hate my Gandalf big time as I've gone to town with the Superb badging!!! Can't have too many reminders of wat model Skoda I have! Hehehe.....ok maybe I have too many. 😛 Fender... Door sill..... Steering wheel..... Door puddle lights...... Boot lid Lower grille..... Air intake.....

agreed - which is why i wasn't worried about it. then again, please don't take my word for it as i updated from MU 0942, whilst ur on MU 0318, which u picked up earlier.

@Spakainz - MIBHelper said the same thing for me - "Bose sound package might require parameterziation after update." no change in sound quality after the update. the Columbus is however quicker to load things, it feels a lot more responsive.

I recently upgraded my MIB2 Columbus unit from MHI2_ER_SKG11_P3325_0942 to MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343_1433 successfully. I have the Canton too, and it did not require parameterization. I made a how-to guide if u need one. Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

That centre cluster image of doors open looks like nothing I've seen in a mk3 Superb before!!

It's a different design, although same technology. Superb 3 has an L-shaped DRL Octavia 3 has a single line DRL

Oh dear - that's a levelling sensor used by the DCC suspension system and the headlights for aim. U need to get that replaced.

Thanks to the helpful tips above - today I managed to remove the 3 piece switch panel. Using trim tool No. 4 shown in the pic below, it was easy to remove the whole black trim piece. Lifted No.3 up and over the gear shifter. From underneath, pushed up switch panels No.1. Then using trim tool No.4, pulled up trim piece No.5. Didn't need to use much force. Removed the button and cleaned it with alcohol wipes, and a gave it a nice clean with an air gun. Will c how the switch behaves now. Saved myself $470 AUD that the dealer refused to fix whilst under warranty and then wanted to charge me after warranty finished. Interestingly, after plugging it back, there was fault with the Parking Brake Switch. Had to start the car, disengage the park brake, then engage the park brake before it stopped complaining. Cleared all the codes after using OBDEleven, just to b sure. It's all good now.

Thanks, will give it a go soon, once I've got the replacement switch panel.

My Lock switch, which is one of the 3 switches in that group gets "sticky" during the cold winter months. Skoda wanted $450 AUD to replace it!!! I can source it for much cheaper, but I haven't figure out how to get to it. I can remove the switch panels on each side of the gear shifter, and the gear shifter leather cover, but then I'm stuck. Going to have to put my head down and focus.....

@Colin170CR, highly doubt a VAG Independent will do it, as @varooom stated above. If u follow my guide, the process is straightforward to do.

@Graham Butcher , @numskull - I had no issues with my MIB2 unit, I just wanted to update the firmware to the latest version, given I have a 6 yr old car. After the update though, it does seem to b faster in doing things, like loading up. According to the TPI, this firmware update will address the following customer issues, which I had none of.

I recently updated the firmware of my Superb MY17 from version 0942 to 1433, and created a guide for anyone else who would b interested in going down this path. Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

Lol, I was thinking the Matrix.....red pill or blue pill!!! Anyways, I've attached a how to guide I just created. Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

Hence why it's much more effective and cheaper to get the DCC Mod. U don't have to physically change the DCC module, and u get a better mapped suspension algorithm map sourced from the Arteon. A dozen of us have done this and the difference is night n day.

Took the Blue pill and updated the firmware of the MIB2 Columbus unit in Gandalf today. Thanks to @varooom's guidance. The headunit had no issues, but I just wanted to update it cause newer is always better, plus there is a TPI for it - 2047101/6. No noticeable changes really, but it does feel slightly more responsive. Could also b placebo effect too....

Just be careful when making adjustments to the wiper arm at the spindle. Each time the wiper stops, it parks at a different position when the car is turned off. This is to prevent it from sticking and leaving marks at the same spot over n over. It's designed to do that. i.e. if u alter the bottom position, the top position may not necessarily alter the same way or amount. Thanks to my dirty not washed car, u can see how far from the edge it gets to.

How hard was it to update the MIB2 unit? There is no issues with mine, but it would b nice to update it. This is mine now:- Software number: 3V0035045D Software version: 0942 Hardware number: 3V0035045 Hardware version: H50

It's there in the user manual.....

No I don't have the APR SCU - there is no need for me to because I have the DCC Mod. Nor do I know of anyone who has got it. As I said before, the DCC Mod is way cheaper than the APR version, and it use the Arteon algorithm, unlike the APR one which uses an algorithm made for the Golf - so no good really. Yes I have the DCC slider - it's part of the DCC Mod. Top left = Sport Bottom left = Sport+ Top right = Comfort Bottom Right = Comfort+ Slider in the middle is Normal.

It's all in the software - it determines the shocks characteristics. Hence why the DCC mod is great because it changes the shock's characteristics by using the software algorithm from an Arteon which is similar in size, weight and shape as the Superb. when I bought my car new, I was using Individual Driving Profile with DCC set to Sport, 100% of the time. Couldn't use Comfort, and Normal wasn't great - too bouncy & wallowy, and would bottom out too much. after I got the Eibach Pro-kit springs, I was using Individual Profile with DCC set to Sport 80% of the time. I would use Normal Driving Profile other times, but car would still bottom out. It wasn't as bouncy or wallowy though. after I did the DCC recalibration, I was using Individual Profile with DCC set to Sport 30% of the time. I would use Normal Driving Profile most of the time, as car was no longer bouncy or wallowy, and would rarely bottom out. after I did the DCC Mod, I'm using Individual Profile with DCC set to Comfort 100% of the time. The car is no longer bouncy or wallowy, at all, nor does it ever bottom out. I now only switch to Sport Driving Profile if I'm doing spirited windy twisty roads. It's amazing wat u can do with software. APR have recently released a new product, which does a similar thing as the DCC mod, but costs 10x more. It's their Suspension Control Module (SCU).

Correct. Going into ECO Driving profile doesn't change the DCC mode. It will remain in whatever mode it was set to by the previous Driving Profile. Hence if u were in Normal and change to Eco - DCC will remain in Normal. If u were in Sport and change to ECO - DCC will remain in Sport. ECO Driving Profile only changes the ACC, Drive mode, Xenon lights and AC.

Yup, considerable & noticable difference between the various DCC modes. Eco is not a DCC mode. Don't get confused with Drive Modes and Driving Profiles. These r different things. Factory DCC has 3 settings - Comfort, Normal and Sport. DCC mod changes from 3 to 15 settings. It also utilities the Arteon's algorithm mapping for compression and rebounds. This is done by upgrading the DCC module parameters, and also upgrading the Gateway, so it enables the extra 12 maps.

Even way way more cheaper, and an even better ride if u r able to get "DCC Mod (Arteon algorithm) + DCC recalibration + Eibach Pro-kit springs" Completely transforms the car, for a fraction of the price, time and effort. Best of all u get to keep all the other DCC dependent systems happy. Win win

Thanks for that tip - will c if I can find the torque specs for the timing cover bolts.