JR RS

They tried the software fix on mine first, but that didn't fix the problem. They ended up replacing the seat controller module, under warranty.

Yes, the front bumper needs to b removed in order to get the headlights out or in - no other way. I've attached a how-to for the front bumper removal. Should help. Essentially:- 1. Put front on jack stands 2. Remove wheels 3. Remove wheelarch liner 4. Disconnect wiring harnesses 5. Disconnect headlight washer pipe 6. Remove bumper 7. Remove headlights Reverse the process to put things back. Removing Front Bumper.pdf

I was able to enable the alarm chirps on mine with these instructions. Some of the instructions I previously found was missing some steps.

@varooom - I just noticed ur profile states u have an Octavia. The pics u have referenced r for an Octavia mk3. The Octavia has a different tank setup and size altogether!!! Ur going to have different PR Codes to that of the Superb. As for the PR codes I listed above, it doesn't matter wat the market is, or when in the world, the PR codes for the Superb r the same. 0M4 is 66L 0M4+1Z2 is 76L PR codes between different models will vary. I don't understand why ur comparing the Octavia and Superb tanks...sorry.

found it - attached PDF. its the available options for the Skoda Superb in Bosnia/Croatia. prices r shown, ex. VAT. this was shared from a discussion back in 2018. 21-1496898482-superb--dodatna-oprema.pdf

the larger fuel tank is certainly an option in some markets, and i've seen it on the options price list for one of the european markets (either portugal or spain or similar) - i'll see if i still have that. 0M4 is the standard 66L fuel tank. 1Z2 is the Increase in initial standard fuel filling my build sheet, from erWin Skoda shows both 0M4 and 1Z2 PR codes. if u don't have the larger fuel tank, it will only show 0M4., i.e. standard 66L tank if u have the larger fuel tank, u'll see both PR codes.

I've driven an additional 30 km after the Range Left hit 0 km, with the needle on "empty". When I reached the petrol station - I put in 74L of fuel that day. I never fill up when the fuel warning light turns on. I always wait till the Range left is between 10 and 20 kms. Been doing that for the past 5 yrs with no issues and the fuel level gauge has always been "predictable". p.s. mine has the optional larger fuel tank (1Z2), which adds another 10-15L or so, to the standard 66L tank.

Another vote for Erwin Skoda, plus u can also download all the workshop manuals (PDF) while ur there. Very useful to have if ur the tinkering type.

Yes, same here - the interior LED stripes r not visible during the day time. They weren't designed to b visible in daylight.

That behavior is not correct - it shouldn't re-enable itself unless u've restarted the car, or u've changed the Driving Profile during ur drive.

Be careful with the Apps as they can do "other" things behind the scenes which can cause unwanted side effects, and make it difficult to fully undo/reverse any changes made by the Apps. With long-coding, u know exactly wat is done, step by step.

@Stunner good to hear u were able to get the DCC recalibration done on urs, and its made a difference. with regards to the level sensors - there r only 3 sensors - front left/right and rear left. these r located next to the control arms. there is no rear right, which is why its deflected value doesn't change from 33%. the DCC shocks determine the voltage required (for the valve control) based on these 3x level control sensors. each DCC mode (comfort, normal, sport) has its own mapping algorithm, combined with the input values from the level sensors, to determine the dampening level. with regards to the "theory" behind how/why its done, this is the info i found:- The calibration is done with all four wheels off the ground, so the DCC module stores the fully extended value of the sensors. Once the car is back on the ground the DCC module stores a "center" value. This part doesn't require using any of the various coding tools so possibly the module learns this value over a few power cycles or maybe just the first time that it's back on the ground. From that point it's able to do its thing based on the position of the level sensors, the accelerometers and your selected mode. With recalibration done, the DCC module will interpret your lower ride height (from installing springs) as suspension compression, albeit mild, and slightly stiffen all four corners, at all times. Depending on the drop this might not be significant. DCC will only allow you to run calibration (basic settings) with the suspension fully extended. It will only run if the level sensors are in the proper range. They should be when the suspension is extended. You can check each sensor (front left/right and left rear) in measuring blocks for a value that says calibration available (or something like that). It will say possible or not possible. All three need to say possible or else the basic settings won't run. Just because all the wheels are off the ground doesn't mean the values are within limits. it is necessary that the raw values are between the limits 1 and the limits 2 in rebound for each wheel except rear right which does not have a level sensor I don't know the actual full range for the sensors but let's call it 0 - 100. The DCC module expects each sensor to be within a certain range (with the wheels hanging) in order to perform the basic settings (calibration). As an example, let's say it expects a value between 20 - 40. If any sensor is not in that range it will not perform the calibration. In this example all of the sensor should read between 20 - 40 when the wheels are hanging. But if a sensor is broken (could be bent, broken, internally failed, wiring issue, improperly mounted, whatever) it may read a value that is out of that range. Having much shorter suspension (say coil overs set to their lowest) could also cause the value to be out of range (shorter strut means lower control arm doesn't hang down as far). So if the arm of the left front sensor on this example car was bent, it may read a value of 45 with the wheels hanging. That is out of the expected range, so calibration will not work.

Legend!! Thank u

Thanks for that. Do u have a similar thing for the rear brakes - PR Code is 1KU (300mm rotors)?

Why use a skinny space saver tyre when u can use a proper size spare like the ones @Carlston mentioned.... or even put a full size 19" spare. I have that in mine, and it has the 235/40/19 tyres.

When I had my 220 in for it's 75k kms service last week, they indicated the minimum brake thickness required is 3mm. Mine was measured at 7mm. So still plenty of life left in them after 64k kms

Can't view the videos. 😕 Also, in ur pic, the headlights r not aligned to each other. The left one is way off!!

And that's a wrap.... ....gloss black vinyl wrap that is, on the chrome bits on badge edge and grille surround. Was a test run, being vinyl I could easily remove it. I like it, cause it follows the Grey-Black-Chrome theme I have going on Gandalf - so I'm going to get the proper gloss black trims and make it permanent 🙂

I haven't heard of that one before. Nor have I seen it discussed.

U don't need to enter into Service mode to do the map updates. Simply insert the SD-Card and go to Navigation settings and trigger the update from there.

Don't bother with a Carista - get an OBDEleven or VCDS (genuine). There is a whole thread about "tried and tested" coding for the Superb mk3. Use the search tool. If u have a facelift Superb - proceed with caution as SFP means a lot of things can't b tweaked/modified via code changes

from all the forums/research i've read in the past on the DCC re-calibration - some people have had success with OBDEleven. ODIS definitely can do it. VCDS is not able to do it. why? it is not known why. i had success using my OBDEleven.

Sorry.....I missed this. They r the standard 19" wheels that come with the L&K model.

Oh bugger!!! U did call it though.

Heaps of choices from Kopacek - carbon, gloss, stainless steel, plain. I've got the plain version - looks OEM.