JR RS

No point trying to convince the numerous PS4 fanboys. 😂 The P7 on mine has done its job, for me - that is to last a while, instead of 2 yrs or so. They weren't too noisy given they r 19s, and grip levels were good in both wet & dry conditions. They lasted me 52,000 kms (4 yrs), with another 3-4mm thread left. Only reason I changed was because I wanted the wider 245 tyres, and there was an EOFY sale. Grip was not the best, especially for traffic light launches, but for 95% of the driving time - it did its job. 🙂

I quite like the spaced lettering, so I did "my version" with my pre-facelift. If I had a Sportline, it would've been in Black lettering.

Oh wow....I didn't realise that. Skoda is being generous!!

Yes, that one doesn't make sense indeed. I haven't tried it, but I assume that would also stop the SLA from doing it's thing with the headlights too. I know the Air-conditioning "power" is also reduced in Eco-mode, i.e. it takes longer to reach the desired temp. Makes sense as this uses up fuel.

Well, ur a lucky guy then. My 220 stops coasting and engages the transmission if I use the brakes, or accelerate. Doesn't matter flat, uphill or downhill. Eco-mode also means no engine braking. ACC uses engine braking to maintain speed. If Eco-mode is active, it can't do that. Hence ACC is disabled in Eco-mode. Makes sense. Maybe the 280 is special......

Eco-mode is annoying in terms of its working conditions required - can't have cruise control active, and u can't use the brakes!

DCC won't b standard. If u have it, it will show a DCC Driving modes like this. In Individual mode, u can choose different DCC modes.

U can make minor tweaks/adjustments of the vertical throw of ur low beams, using the adjuster shown in the pic. Park ur car approx. 7m away from a wall, on level ground. Using an allen key, make very small turns of the screw - u'll c the beam either lift or drop. Repeat the same with the other headlight. This is how mine looks. https://youtu.be/fkRcEJIVlJU

+1 I removed the grille frame surround the other day and there is no way I could've done it with the bumper still on!! The screws at the bottom and the one above the ACC radar r next to impossible to reach if bumper hasn't been removed - for me at least. The million clips holding the frame r a pain to separate too!! @boydeee is a magician!!

Yup. I learnt about the tilt (anti-towing) alarm when I tried to remove the front splitter by jacking the car, up while it was locked.

@Colin170CR- nice work with removing the rear boot camera. Just a note though - if u have curtain airbags, then u shouldn't b tucking any cables under the headliner as that will hinder the airbag deployment!! I know u said the cable is not long enough, but the curtain airbags r now compromised.

No, u can't change at wat speed HBA activates, or deactivates. It's embedded in the parameter file, which can't b modified. U can however change the speed of when the cornering lights activate/deactivate.

ur overthinking this waaaayyyyyyy too much!!!

Here r the available options. Not sure how urs is doing both front windows.....

SLA headlights r the Xenon version of the Matrix LED headlights. in other words, SLA headlights does the masking/shaping of the high beams, avoiding on-coming traffic. unlike Matrix LED, SLA uses special rollers to shape the beam. u'll know if u have SLA if ur headlights does this specific dance pattern, in the video below. or if u lift the bonnet & check the physical part number on the headlights themselves. if it ends with "B", then u have SLA headlights. there r two types of Bi-Xenons - normal and SLA versions. as for who does it - these guys do it - Auto-prestavby they're based in CZ. there is a discussion here that talks about it. -

It is doable, and there is a company (in Europe) that offers this conversion. They also do rear facelift conversions too. I forgot the name/link. For the front, u'll obviously need a FL bumper, FL Headlights, FL Foglights, FL grille, and other associated hardware brackets. I'd imagine the wiring harness would b different. U'll definitely need coding done and a new parameter file uploaded. If u don't currently have SLA headlights, then u'll need different LCMs (light control modules). Doable..... but there is a lot involved. Won't b plug n play.

I find the feature (open/close windows remotely) very very handy and use it a lot. If u don't like it - u can turn it off in the "Opening and Closing settings" in the Car Settings. Change the Window operation "Convenience Opening" to either Off, All Windows, or just the Driver's window.

1. you may want to be careful with upgrading the front sway bar on front wheel drive cars because too much stiffness in the front can cause the inside front wheel to lift. Because the front tires are putting power to the ground, this would drastically affect the car's grip and handling in a negative way 2. I put 25.4mm rear swaybar - comfort has not been compromised one bit with the DCC setup. 3. Eibach, H&R, Whiteline. Eibach only sell them as a set - i.e. front & rear. I've got a Hardrace rear swaybar. They also make a AWD version.

my apologies - ur correct. i got my wires crossed. Autohold (A) bares no effect on the parking brake. i was meant to say that make sure the parking brake (P) symbol is illuminated orange. this will engage the parking brake when u put the car in park, and turn the ignition off. likewise, it will automatically turn off the park brake when u get in, and drive off - no need to release it. u enable it by pulling up the park brake till the orange light is on. if the parking brake is not illuminated, then the parking brake will not automatically engage/disengage. @MarkyG82 - no, autohold function does not use the park brake. it uses regular disc brakes.

@Gogul95 - when u say Front Assist Fuse - wat fuse location is this? i can't see anything in the dashboard fuse layout that refers to front assist. do u know if this fuse location is switched power or permanent power? most of us, including myself have used fuse location #47 - Rear window wiper. its switched power, so the dashcam will power on and off with the ignition.

+1 make sure u haven't turned off the autohold function. the button next to ur park-brake and start-stop buttons.

as far as i know, the Superb does not come with the Soundakator device - in any model! so i don't understand why ur shows "Standard electronic engine sound" in ur build spec. wat year and model is ur Superb? do u have iV? if so, then that would make sense.

Yes, 162 kW = 220 bp. Just like 206 kW = 280 bp. Maybe the 162/220, being a FWD, has a different rear axle setup to the 206/280 due to the AWD. But then again, @NewBie has a 272. I highly doubt the rear track would've changed between 272 and 280 variants.

Definitely no internet connection. Nothing to do with GPS signal.

yes, ur correct. if i remember correctly - he altered the amount of lumens at which it reacts to. the light sensor is triggered by the amount of lumens it picks up, to determine how much light is there, and hence when to turn the lights on/off. in theory, if u reduce the trigger point of the amount of lumens, then it will wait till its much darker before turning on the lights. however, the same settings in the morning, will turn off the lights much earlier.