JR RS

U want the least amount of swearing, easy access and least amount of risk (breaking something else in the process) - bumper off job. U want lots of swearing, feeling ur way around (cause u can't see inside), scratching ur head (plus others bits of choice.....), and don't mind having a few spare bolts or broken tabs - keep the bumper on!! So.....u going take the Red or Blue pill? Choose wisely

the Kodiaq comes with the white LED version. part number is 3T0947417F9B9. problem is they not cheap. haven't found any secondhand ones here, or if i do, shipping is killer to Oz. i want to get them, but i'm not paying those prices just for the sake of having a torch with white boot light.

These r the bits (marked in red) securing the grille to the bumper......

They r always on in mine (MY17), regardless of door or headlight status. It's just during the daytime they r hard to see, even at max brightness.

Mine did that when the battery was low on charge, i.e. about to die. Car/battery was about 3 yrs old at the time.

Lol.....I never park right up like that, front or rear. It's angled driveways I'm worried about.

Getting the roof wrapped makes a nice difference. Highly recommended.

Compared to the factory indicators, they r weak at the tips. Can't see them from the inside. But importantly, it can b seen from the outside.

Been thinking about doing this for way way too long - finally gave Gandalf a lip extension!! 😊 It's a Rieger splitter. Was looking and looking for a splitter that didn't stick out like the Maxton and SuperSkoda versions. Fits perfectly. Quality is great. Going to get it finished in Gloss Black soon, so it matches the gloss black of the fog light frames....

It (indirect TPMS) uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel rotational speeds. If a tyre is running flat, or of a different size it will b picked up. With direct TPMS, it has a parameter file in the tyre pressure module with different tyre size and associated pressures stored.

others have had similar issues, but with persistence, have ended up being successful. maybe, instead of going to Adaptations, u can enter the security code and go straight into Basic Settings and try running the calibration "Adapting with deflected wheels". reason for going to Adaptations is to capture the "before" values, so u can compare. if u've already got that, no need to go into again. go straight to Basic Settings.

Try running ur 220 with a Stage 1 ECU tune!!! Putting a lower dogbone insert helped eliminate the axle-tramp, but now the tyres just chirp n spins on the spot

My seat memory function had failed about 2 yrs back. Mine is MY17. It's common, known to happen when they're pushed to their extremes. As others have mentioned above - u either do a software update to the seat controller module. Or u replace it, which is wat my dealer did to mine, under warranty. Also, as @SashaGracementioned - that a mighty new controller version (F) number for an MY16, or it's the wrong controller. maybe urs was faulty before U got it and they replaced it, but with the wrong version for the Superb. Haven't had any issues since then. Previously my seat controller was:- SW: 5Q0 959 760 B HW: 5Q0 959 760 B Now it is:- SW: 5Q0 959 760 C HW: 5Q0 959 760 C

Just an update after having the recalibration done a week ago now. The car rides so much better now. If only I had known about this much much earlier. The car is less crashy. Previously with the lowered springs, the DCC shocks were not ideally matched, and hence it would crash/bottom-out on speed humps or dips, especially in Normal or Comfort modes. After recalibrating, the DCC shocks r better behaved with the shorter springs. I don't have to, anymore, put the car in Sport setting for Suspension. Really happy with it.

Hmmm, not sure wat is happening there. Did u enter the security code, then go to adaptations, then check adapting deflected values first, then back out (to module 14) and then go to perform basic settings? Yes, ignition off, but ACC on. .....and ur using OBDEleven yeah?

Thanks. I'm a bit of a nutcase with my car. The link in my signature to my build thread will reveal the truth. The Karoq Sportline in particular is a looking car. Wat colour did u get? Lol, an Aussie sub-forum here!! We do have an Aussie facebook group "auskoda"

I have an MY17 Superb, and my steering gets heavy when the start-stop kicks in.

i had issues about 1.5 yrs back - my seat memory would not store/remember any positions. i tried all the "tricks" to get it working again - but no luck. they (dealer) tried doing a software update to the seat controller module - no luck. end result was the seat memory driver module (J810) was replaced under warranty. haven't had any issues since. new module 5Q0 959 760 C old module 5Q0 959 760 B

i have a HEX-V2 VCDS cable. all my scans, and wat i showed above is the output of it. there is no "CF" controller, at least i can't see it, and mine is running the latest firmware and VCDS software. anyways......good luck with it

I've got a 220 too. I've used my 205/55/16 about 4 or 5 times (cause screws love my tyres)!!

There is no separate controller for the Rear Traffic Alert. As I mentioned before, this is done by the 3C Lane Change Assist module, which u can already see. I don't see any added benefit u upgrading to HEX-V2 in this instance. The master (controller) is below the right taillight. there is a slave under the left taillight.

As I said before - the 280/272 (206kW) engine has bigger 340mm brakes which the 16" rim will NOT clear it. If u've got a 280, then get a 17 or 18" spare. Or if u want cheaper, get a 16", but u'll b able to use it on the rear. The 2.0L 220 (162kW) engine has 312mm brakes, hence the 16" rim is fine, front or back. I don't know wat size the TDi versions have.

next time please try the Search function - its amazing how much info u can find!!

The 280/272 engine has bigger brakes, hence they require a 17" spare to clear the brakes. All the others can have a 16" spare.

Never come across the issues u've encountered, and I've had the car since new.