JR RS

I did the same thing (minus the tampon) when my driver's side headlight fogged up for the first time in 3 yrs. Removed the back cover and drove for about 30-40 mins. Cleared up after that.

Lol, thanks. It's a long list of things I've done to Gandalf!!! I'll put a thread together, one day. However most of the things I do is subtle & no one will notice anything different unless I point it out, or when compared side by side to another Superb.

There shouldn't b any wires in the spare wheel well. Looks like something aftermarket. Factory fitted tow bar wires aren't visible anywhere in the boot area.

all good @john999boy i think because the Superb already has front door warning lights, the coding might have already been in place.

i used the plastic tool they provided, and wedged it in-between. i didn't remove any part of the door. with the corners/turns - make small slits along the black rubber bit, so it allows the chrome to stay bent. otherwise it will keep trying to straighten, and hence flex out of the groove/gap.

u'll need to tap into the window motor for positive connection, and into one of the door pins as the trigger (switched ground). you can read how I did it here. mine was wired up so it only turns on when the particular rear door is open. sorry, that is incorrect. there is no plug'n'play connector, nor is there any coding required. I don't know if it also applies to L&K variants.

The alternatives r good, n do the job, but it doesn't beat OEM integration. Initially, after seeing the difficultly level on this direct tpms version, I was going to with plan b - the alternatives. But I decided to stick to my guns n go the whole hog. Happy I did.

Ah, I c ur scenario with winter wheels. Thankfully we don't have a need like that here in Oz. I'm not sure how, or if, the TPMS module is able to pair with two different sets of sensors. With regards to programming the sensors, I know that it is done via some specialist tools. Nothing ordinary. The usual suspects such as ODIS, VCP or VCDS doesn't cut it.

Nope, no coding of the sensors. e Each tire sensor had already been paired with the receiver. Plug n play. So when fitted, it knows which sensor is where based on the distance of the sensors relative to it. Hence why the receiver must b mounted right at the back.

I can see Gandalf's Pressure now!! woOot 😁 After months n months of planning, I finally retrofitted the Direct TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System). It all went well and everything is working as expected. Turns out the module (5Q0 907 273 B ) was already parameterized (the VCP bit), so once I did the VCDS coding bits, it was all running. I will however need to update (via VCP) the TPMS module's parameter file so it has the right tire profiles, but it's all good now 👍 Very happy I am 😊. I'll put a write-up together, but essentially it involves:- Part 1 - TPMS Installation. Mount module under rear bumper and tap (into the blind spot radar) CANBUS Extended. Part 2 - TPMS Power. Run power source through interior trim to fuse panel up front, for constant power supply.. Part 3 - VCDS Coding of CAN Gateway, Instruments and ABS modules. Part 4 - VCP to load parameter file for TPMS module. Part 5 - Install Tire internal sensor inside tire. some pics below...... the unit is accessible from underneath the bumper - no need to remove the bumper to access it. just incase.

Yes, different tail lights.

Hmm......that's weird. Try this - https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Oj5cv

AliExpress link here.

Did u also change the headunit in the glove box? My understanding is that MIB2.5 screens require an MIB2.5 headunit to go with it.

I have no idea - the car was left with the Skoda Service centre for its 45k km service, and while it was there, they replaced the battery.

Use erWin to get a complete list of PR-codes. U get a 6-8 pg report based on the vehicle's VIN. Looks like this....

Sorry, I don't get that - use what?

It definitely does - "1D7 - Trailer Hitch Preparation". See screenshot of my car's specific build codes below. Even though I didn't specify for factory towbar, Oz bound mk3 Superbs come with Trailer Hitch Preparation as standard. Nonetheless, others have stated, as u have too, that the trailer hitch harness from the BCM is unlikely to have an intermediate connector. That picture/location is the C-pillar directly behind the rear seats. I have a hatch/liftback. Yes, I have a multimeter, just in case. I'm just going to go with Option 3 - I found a suitable path from the fuse dashboard, up the A-pillar, under the roof liner, front to back, and down into the C-pillar. From there, it's an easy run behind the boot trim, and into the area behind the bumper, where the TPMS module will b located. I'll piggyback of SC44 (Trailer device) fuse, which already has a 15A fuse in place.

was doing some more digging around my car boot and interior, and i've come across these plugs below, found behind the left side C-pillar. does anyone know which one is the towbar electrics? i'm assuming/hoping the black connector is, and if so, then i can tap into, as per option 2 above. @XaGiCo had suggested in his TPMS write up that SC44 was a possible alternate option to power the TPMS module. it will also mean i don't have to run a power wire all the way to the front fuse board.

Was not the case for me when I had my battery replaced, earlier this year, under warranty. All settings remained, including the seat memory.

All good @bak I found some good info on the Ross-Tech forums, as well some help from messaging some Briskoda members I've been told that CANBUS wires are easily spotted using wire colors. Orange/gray for CAN-H and orange/brown for CAN-L in case of CAN Extended. Below is the pin assignments of the blindspot radar connectors:- Master J1086 right - connector T8bs 3 - CAN high to pin 19 on BCM plug B (white) 4 - CAN low to pin 18 on BCM plug B (white) 5 - GND 6 - to Slave 6 7 - to Slave 7 8 - +12V, terminal 15a Slave J1087 left - connector T8br 3 - lamp mirror right K304 4 - lamp mirror left K303 5 - GND 6 - from Master 6 7 - from Master 7 8 - +12V, terminal 15a I also found this handy diagram on the Russian forum:- So I've got CANBUS pins all figured out. I'll be tapping into the Master Radar unit. Now I'm just doing research on the best way to power the TPMS module. it requires constant power, not switched (ignition) power. the blindspot radars do have a power source, but its unfortunately switched. so no good for the TPMS module. I have 3 options for power:- 1. Easiest - source from the 12v cig lighter in the boot. this is a constant power source. 2. unknown - source power from the trailer electrics. Problem is my car doesn't come with a tow bar fitted, but i hear our cars come with "tow bar preparation (electrics)" in place. I also noticed in my car's fuse board, location 44 has a 15 amp fuse in it already. i just don't know if I'll find any actual tow bar electrics behind the bumper? 3. Hardest, but ideal - source power from the Fuse board under the dash, specifically piggyback from Fuse Location 7. However this requires running a wire, from under the dashboard, under the B and C trims, under the boot trim, and down to the chassis behind the rear bumper. need to do some more research........

Hey @bak- thanks for sharing that. However, just to b clear, I'm not looking to retrofit BSD system. My car came with it from factory. I'm going to retrofit Direct TPMS. To do this, I need to tap into the existing BSD radar to get a connection to CANBUS High and Low. I've read XAGICO's write-up on the TPMS retrofit, a number of times. However he's connected it up differently with the Golf 7 wiring - he ran wires from the canbus gateway at the front, through the sides and into the rear. I don't want to do that. A Kodiaq member has tapped into the BSD for the CANBUS connections. I'm looking to do the same. See blue arrow in pic below. The BSD connector has 6 wires. I'm trying to figure out which one/pin is CANBUS High and CANBUS Low. I'll source power for the TPMS from the boot 12v source.

Specifically 5Q0907685 / 5Q0907686? also known as the "Blindspot Radars". I need to tap into the CANBUS High and CANBUS Low pins, so i can connect a TPMS (direct) controller module that i'm looking to retrofit. any help would b much appreciated.

Specifically 5Q0907685 / 5Q0907686? also known as the "Blindspot Radars". I need to tap into the CANBUS High and CANBUS Low pins, so i can connect a TPMS (direct) controller module that i'm looking to retrofit. any help would b much appreciated.

No such issues when using Google Maps through Android Auto.