sepulchrave

The sensor is like a pair of MAP sensors in a single package, they measure the pressure in the same way and the ECU uses those measurements in an algorithm to determine whether to regen or not. Rather like a MAP sensor the DPF sensor is incredibly robust and rarely goes wrong, however it is possible that the convoluted pipework can get blocked giving rise to errors, simply use a blowgun to ensure the pipes are clear.

Easiest thing to do is to cut off the end of the tailpipe where it bends downwards then you can fit whatever style of slip on tailpipe you like.

It's almost entirely meaningless I'm afraid. There's no substitute for getting your hands dirty.

No, allow it to dry out properly.

I would start by cleaning out the EGR valve and pipework since the problems you describe are generic and common to most modern diesels with DPF.

Looks about right to me ~1.5 bar peak boost on a stock turbo is healthy. A remap won't raise peak boost because that's dependent on turbo geometry, not the map.

You need to call the breakdown company to come out and read the fault codes again before attempting the long journey back to the smoke, it may not be the same code as last time.

1. No it's not and I'm not looking for an argument, you are. 2. Absolutely not, but I would tell them that their equipment won't survive five minutes in a garage workshop environment. 3. Of course I have, and I can tell you the operator had absolutely no idea how the equipment works, it's designed to be idiot proof for a reason.

Because weighing the old charge is inaccurate and pointless and makes the machine far more complex and unreliable than it needs to be, the weight of the fresh charge is easily calculated by how much is removed from an assayed bottle and the oil content is similarly calculated by the quantity used. Simple arithmetic is much more accurate than metrology.

Yes, inject pressurised nitrogen and test leak down, if the system holds pressure then recharge, if not identify leaking parts, replace and retest. Duh?

Why do they bother weighing all the old crap the machine hoovered out, it seems complex and unnecessary?

I thought that the commercial AC service machines vacuumed out the contents, then injected nitrogen and fluorescent dye to test for leaks before refilling the system with the correct weight of refrigerant and PAG oil.

Replace the gearbox, it's completely worn out after 380k.

Unfortunately the correct size for the Fabia on 17's is actually the 40 profile not the 45. I use 15" wheels with 50 profile because my set of 16's with 45 profile is just too crashy on the backroads. You can probably sell the set for more than 15's will cost, townies love huge wheels because they never drive at speed on the open road.

I'd use an auto electrician if I were you rather than a mechanic, it'll be one of the wires inside the drivers door bellows playing up.

The intake could only be restrictive at WOT under full boost conditions at higher RPM. The ECU knows when you're on the clutch because there's a switch on the pedal, hence my reference to the map.

It will do absolutely nothing since the standard intake isn't restrictive. The poor throttle response is down to the mapping.

Just add gas until it gets nice and cold. The only way to be certain how much gas is in the system is to suck it all out then inject the correct charge by weight, this is how commercial systems work.

I've had way more than 75kg on my Fabias roof bars but didn't want to say that I exercised my own judgement and experience for fear of a savage attack from the safety police, but it came anyway. Hence my tongue in cheek sketch about how decisions are actually made in real life rather than 'on the spectrum' somewhere in internet wobbly world.

Check the vacuum pipes for air leaks, mainly splits where the servo pipework is joined. Unmetered air is the most common cause.

The answer is to open the tailgate and use a tape measure.

It's very difficult using home regas kits, commercial systems properly scavenge the system, then add the correct amount by weight according to the manufacturers specifications. My hunch is you've been conservative with the quantity and should add gas a little at a time until it starts to get properly cold.

Looks like they gave you 256mm shields instead of 288mm.

You could try adding some more gas to increase the cooling power, even without all the fans running properly the AC should get very cold before the system heatsoaks.

"Hey Pawel, the mouthbreathers in marketing want to know what the safe roof loading is for their roof bars" "OK, I'll call Walther at compliance in Wolfsberg" "Walther, what can I say for the safe roof loading on the new Fabia?" "Pawel, we have test data from the 1970's showing 75kg is safe and the cars back then were made of tinfoil." "But cars and bars are a lot stronger these days Walther" "Who cares Pawel, if the car isn't big enough to carry the load internally then they should buy a bigger car." "Thanks Walther, that's definitely something for marketing, just email me the test details."