sepulchrave

It's your rear beam axle jacking up, mine does it too, I daresay they all do it.

Left or right hand drive probably.

Feelings are not to be trusted, traction is the problem, not power and certainly not torque. Rolling figures are much more revealing of true performance than standing starts. If you do many hard starts you'll kill the DMF so I advise against it.

I would replace the sensor first as previously suggested.

The 1.4 MPI has more torque from lower RPM than the 1.4 16V engines. You could modify it to a fast road spec. by gasflowing the cylinder head and fitting a different cam then having it remapped on a rolling road but it would cost about €1000 for another 15 bhp. You do the math.

Dude, this thread is seven years old.

The 'dogging' tint.

I know, the SDI can be a wild ride, just too damned fast for our roads, you need both hands firmly on the wheel or she'll get away from you. Anything is possible but such a conversion will not be easy or cheap.

You can get up to speed quicker by slipstreaming faster vehicles like milk floats.

You need to check for evidence of a possible leak, particularly around the sump and sump plug and the oil filter.

So my real world experience with 15 vs 16 inch rims (I have both in stock) is trumped by your theorycrafting? As an aside, the Polo 9N platform upon which these cars are based was designed in the 90's so it's pretty venerable now.

No, I'm on Bilstein B12's with polybushes and a RARB, every part of my suspension is brand new so it's the wheel and tyre combo, not the chassis that's crashy.

You'd be better off buying a set of 15's with 195/50/15 tyres if you're finding the 16's too crashy, you can sell the 16's easily once you've done the swap. I found 16's too crashy on the B roads I drive on and fitted 15's, much more comfortable and the handling is even better. Big wheels are for billiard tables and townies.

Yes.

Instead of playing guessing games you could just fit the correct size tyre for the car rather than this random scrapyard modding approach.

If you fit the correct sized tyres it won't catch. You can't just chuck wheels from a bigger car onto a smaller car and expect everything to be ok.

You'll need to start by fitting the correct sized tyres, you need 205/40/17 on the Fabia to avoid catching the arches.

Start by clearing the lot and trying again, moving the knob back and forth between hot and cold should unstick the temperature flap. Fan relay is a simple swap but you should test the fan first to ensure it's not burnt out.

You could just rewire it to run full speed all the time, overcooling is not really an issue.

It means you've switched MFA channel 1 to average MPH inadvertently.

The fan malfunction will not prevent the A/C from working until it heatsoaks.

You won't get any more power out of the SDI, you'll just burn more fuel for no gain.

It's obviously a wiring problem and mechanics are TERRIBLE at electrics, it needs to be looked at by an auto electrician.

Ken, please stop attacking... "the effective resistance of an electric circuit or component to alternating current, arising from the combined effects of ohmic resistance and reactance." This isn't about right and wrong, it's about helping people fix their cars. Leave right and wrong for ethical arguments which have no place here.

Dunno, I've never messed with the gearbox oil because it isn't necessary, if that isn't a drain plug then can it be removed to change the seal without draining the gearbox oil or does my point seem reasonable and we're getting hung up on semantics?