sepulchrave

It's most likely to be a small boost leak or stuck EGR valve, something is reducing MAP somewhere, mindlessly changing parts is almost never the solution but it pays well so mechanics stick with it.

You might be able to use the OBD tool to do a forced regen but the most reliable method is to get the exhaust system properly hot by doing some motorway miles, the EGR valve may be coked up and not shutting fully but short of stripping it you'll just have to give it a try.

Take it for a long, fast drive and reset the code. Why waste money on unnecessary repairs.

Who cares, being able to flash your headlights is over-rated, you can get by easily without it.

You need to drive the car further and faster to clear the DPF properly. It is highly unlikely to be a sensor issue.

Dude, seriously, go ask Skoda, this thread's dead; seven long years dead!

Just because it's difficult to do doesn't mean it's not worth doing, I don't consider the cost or practicality of the advice is relevant to the problem itself, most people start by doing the easiest or cheapest jobs before eventually finding the correct solution to the problem.

Motor oil for diesels is better than needed for petrol engines, it'll get it nice and clean inside as well.

Have you checked the cam timing? Hint: You can't do this sat down.

I don't do brands and I don't do colours, it's in a place where it can't be seen so who cares.

Then you have a rare electrical fault that we cannot diagnose from across the internet. Good luck with it.

Just chuck some fresh undersealant over the missing area, no need for any metalwork.

No, it's probably the PAS pump motor rather than the starter that's pulling the voltage down.

It isn't critical as long as the block is vented into the intake somewhere, elaborate PCV strategies are designed to minimise parasitic losses and reduce fuel consumption and emissions, it doesn't really matter if it's not working as designed as long as it's accomplishing it's basic function of protecting the engine from strong vacuum or high pressure conditions.

Threadlock is always a good idea, ever since I started building engines forty years ago I always use loctite on critical fasteners, there's no reason not to.

Yes, use threadlock.

Dude, relax, it's a low performance non-turbo gasoline engine despite what the spittle-flecked spergies would have you believe, it really doesn't matter as long as it's car engine oil and you change it according to schedule.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17932/P1524/005412 You need to fix this, it could be causing the problems.

8" wide rims are excessive, you might have issues with fouling the arches while steering and it'll aquaplane horribly.

Replace the pump with a secondhand unit and see if the problem persists.

I would expect there to be some mark in the housing to denote orientation, these parts are put together correctly by human workers so there must be some method.

Dunno, but every car I've owned with a rear torsion beam axle has done it if you brake while rolling backwards.

Bad luck, might as well get it remapped with a better turbo this time.

No comment on your age related amnesia but Maplins went bust a while ago...

The spare is a Golf sized tyre, too big for the Fabia, should be 195 50 15, why do you have different sized tyres front and rear. The wheel speed sensors won't like the spare, my guess is it'll put the ABS and ESR or ESP warning lights on.