sepulchrave

You can use a piece of the windscreen washer tubing, rinse it out after and put it back.

Much cheaper and simpler to buy an M10 x 1 T piece, then you can have the switch and a gauge.

It's hardened steel which is why it snapped, a simple blob of weld should keep you on the road quickly and cheaply.

Leave the pedal alone, you'll be under the bonnet.

Fill it with fresh fluid, attach it to the nipple with a bit of tubing, open the nipple and inject gently until air stops bubbling up in the reservoir, shut nipple and drive the car.

Because I have been in EXACTLY the same situation as the OP with exactly the same car and even with my daughter pumping the pedal while I did the bleeding I could not get it to clear until I bought an eezibleed.

Please don't take advice from people who don't know how impossible this car is to bleed once it's airlocked, can you get hold of a big horse syringe from a local vet? You can use this to bleed the clutch.

Not for long, I'd be surprised if it even makes 300.

I don't care how you identify, just trying to 'prod' you in the right direction on a technical matter.

1.4 TDI with that much history and low miles should be solid for a good few years yet.

Clearly you felt moved to write nonetheless.

I went through this when I changed the clutch master, it will not clear without a pressure bleeder, go buy one.

He has a wiring fault to number one coilpack but is ignoring it, call an auto electrician if you're stuck.

Ignore the heater stuff, it's not relevant.

You need a pressure bleeder, pumping won't work once the system is airlocked.

Are you sure the correct vacuum line has been plugged, the N75 valve controls the VNT actuator, if you've plugged that one by mistake then you'll get no boost at all.

CAVE was a nightmare, CTHE should be ok.

You can remove the caliper leaving the pads in the carrier, there is no force on those pins, they're simply guides to keep the caliper in the correct plane, the caliper is effectively floating. This argument is bringing no light to the matter, only heat, the OP can repair the threads easily using a 9mm thread repair kit for a fraction of the cost in a fraction of the time.

The horror, that's even worse, out of the question unless you're building a competition car. The juice just ain't worth the squeeze.

You really only need to top the gearbox up but if you want to change it it's not going to do any harm, it just won't fix the worn bearing so it's a waste of your money.

You can't, compression ratio is much too high. You're stuck with it so make the most of the car by sorting out the handling and brakes, easiest way to make the car faster by far.

RTFM huh,

Absolutely, all that waxed cotton rubbish is very expensive and will leave little in the kitty for a glorified golf cart but as an alternative consideration try an old Jeep Grand Cherokee with the excellent Mercedes V6 oil burner, automatic is best, you'll be pleasantly surprised. Whoops, too late, I see you bought a designer handbag instead.

There's silicone getting onto the screen somehow, whether it's in your washer tank, on your wiper blades or from a car wash I have no idea. I really can't be bothered arguing about it.

It's the car wash, just clean the screen with glass cleaner.