sepulchrave

Sounds like the timing's slipped or the compression has gone on one cylinder, depending whether it's 12V or 6V.

They held your car to ransom to make you pay, that's shameful, don't use that garage again.

Extremely easy.

Unfortunately you're being treated as a cash machine and you should go elsewhere.

J500 is the pump unit, so this confirms the failure. New pump needed.

Extremely likely to be the pump I'm afraid unless your battery or alternator are suspect, test the voltage across the battery before and after starting the engine.

Bugger, oh well, just have to keep driving round it...

Does disabling the ABS put the warning light on?

That's a very good choice, you'll have your work cut out for you fitting the FMIC so a simpler turbo installation is a bonus.

Yes it will.

It doesn't make any difference to reliability, whether 200 or 220, it's entirely down to your leaden right foot, the engine is strong enough to cope.

For 200 BHP you need a 1752 minimum but a 1756 will give you the headroom for 220 BHP, there really aren't any other options since turbine and compressor wheel sizes are limited. I'm not sure if you understand how diesel turbo sizing works but your options are very limited by the VNT mechanism on a 1.9 PD engine. Bear in mind your standard turbo is sized as a 1749. 220 BHP is the sweet spot on this engine requiring no other mods to intake, injection or exhaust.

Never needed to, didn't have any engine trouble other than electronics.

My big van is a turbodiesel, I wouldn't dream of driving one as a car, petrol only for my cars and bikes. The 1756 should be perfect for you. He's uprating the clutch and flywheel as well fitting FMIC and pipe kit so it should be just fine.

Wow, it's like a big black drinking straw, I've never seen that on any other engine.

Dipstick tubes generally stop at the block and do not protrude into the crankcase at all.

The cylinder head is large compared to the block and takes time to drain completely, also the hydraulic lifters get squeezed down and emptied, which is why the engine is often tappety when first started. As I stated earlier it doesn't matter, just don't overfill it, the entire reason there is an upper and lower line on the dipstick is because it doesn't matter as long as the oil level is somewhere in between! It's called a tolerance and OCD types don't understand tolerance, they crave absolutes.

Don't be a numbers fairy, they all make about 210 and yours won't be any different. You'll need to be careful with the clutch and flywheel, a full pull in top gear and it'll probably start slipping.

It's not the seals you need to worry about, it's the cat, oil pressure isn't affected by level unless it gets too low.

Stop mucking about with different brands and just fit a 1756 with the FMIC and get it mapped to suit. Job done.

Only fill it halfway up the dipstick, that way it doesn't make any bloody difference if it's hot or cold, overfilling is much worse than underfilling so control the urge to OCD and go halfway.

Seems really unnecessary changing the injectors, all you need is the generic map for ARL PD150 turbo on a BLT, incredibly common upgrade done a million times on here, usually about 180 BHP and often done without changing the standard intercooler. Speaking of which, you can get your leaky FMIC repaired somewhere good at TIG welding. Why is everyone trying to make this so much harder than it really is?

The easiest method is simply to have a killswitch for the fuel tank lift pump, it's under the back seat and easy to do, without the pump the car will not run.

A simple voltage check will confirm if the battery is tired and also if the alternator is charging properly. Changing the fluid is a placebo measure since the power steering would still work with chip fat in it for a time. However I do agree that it's most likely to be a failing pump unit.

It's a meme about short attention spans and being easily distracted from the movie 'Up'.