sepulchrave

Nah, it's piston crown, dished or flat for turbos, raised for N/A, 4V pent roof chambers on modern cylinder heads have no scope for varying the volume.

WTF does stage 2 mean? Sounds like a day trip to universal studios...

This is not a process of negotiation, a faulty lambda probe would not cause the combination of warning lights you have shown us.

It was exactly what you just said, a throttle position too light for the calculated engine load at that road speed.

This ^^

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19586/P3130/012592 You've tested the EGR valve but you need to test the PWM solenoid that actually controls it, there are two or three inside the vacuum box so make sure you test the right one. In addition you need to be very thorough about finding any vacuum leaks, a quick visual inspection simply won't do.

It's very simple, the PAS pump uses a massive amount of current, around 60A peak, if the alternator or the battery are not in tip-top condition then the reference voltage will quickly sag under this load and the ECU will shut down the PAS pump to try and keep the engine running properly. I don't care how you fix it, just stop going around in tiny silly circles. Once you have the battery and charging system working perfectly then the next stop is a secondhand pump and that should be the end of any problems.

A bad alternator will not necessarily give you codes but it will cripple the PAS, if the battery light comes on with the engine running then there is DEFINITELY a fault with it. I'm not sure what further confirmation you need, the ECU shuts down the PAS when it senses a dropping reference voltage. Replace the alternator with a cheap secondhand one if money's tight.

Does the electromagnetic clutch have it's own fuse on top of the battery?

Yes, they did both an electric and a gas heated version which was cheaper to run and quicker at drying yer pants...

I know he does, after all this time are you seriously telling me you think I'm being serious and you need to white Knight for him?

Buy another instrument cluster secondhand and take it out of that, throw the rest in the bin.

That'll clean up, all you need is is mini wire brush in a dremel to polish the bits that make contact, the rest doesn't matter.

Au contraire, I don't even wash mine let alone beautify it, I just drive it.

So finally, we're at the "sticking unnecessary crap all over the car" phase, you must have run out of stuff to break and subsequently fix...

Never bought one, always made a replacement from a spare blade, doesn't matter what, last one I made from the passenger side when I changed the fronts as a pair.

Pump unit has failed.

Such a map: Does not increase power on a PD Does increase EGT Does clog your VNT Does draw attention from plod Does fail the MOT Not much of an upgrade really...

It means a pump, not a rack. The rack is just a dumb lump of metal.

It's caused by cheap wiring, basically insufficient strand count, the copper work hardens and breaks a strand at a time until it will no longer conduct reliably.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665 P2238 is your lambda probe, simply replace it after fixing the first problem which is probably a failed turbo.

It's the lifters, it's nothing to worry about, ignore it.

The battery is flat, charge it up overnight.

The battery light is nothing to do with the battery, it indicates a fault with the alternator. So having a new battery means nothing, you need to fix the alternator or its wiring.

Don't forget the tartan blankets and scatter cushions plus a boot full of crap loosely related to safety and survival. Just for popping down the shops at the weekend!