sepulchrave

Just remove the entire bumper and the answer will present itself.

Oh look, a squirrel...

You can just fit the cap to the cam cover, it's how earlier cars with HT leads were.

I imagine the engine bay is a completely different layout to the A45 since there's more space to play with, nonetheless I expect it to be unreliable although MB are unlikely to admit it, far less issue a recall. They'll be beta testing it at the customers expense.

Tricky having an electric motor on the hot side of an engine, the magnets wouldn't last long, I'm aware of the sci-fi existence of these things but the A45 is a real car with a very oversize turbo for a 2.0 four banger, hence the crazy power output, I imagine it's pretty laggy nonetheless. Also water methanol injection has been around for donkeys ears, it's a strategy to prevent detonation by quenching hot spots and does nothing to help spool, if anything it increases lag due to the latent heat losses incurred during vaporisation. Removing heat means less energy to spin that turbo. GCSE Physics FTW.

AMG A45 uses a twin-scroll turbo, this will spool faster than a single-scroll but there's no electric motor and the Borg Warner B03 is a journal bearing turbo so I suspect you've been listening to a load of old pub talk, which is fine, but you should learn to ignore it without offending the spitting idiot telling you and you certainly shouldn't repeat it.

Yes, you have a dead cell, I'm in danger of repeating myself here but: Buy A New Battery! Ok?

That's because it's completely knackered, go and buy another one.

How can it be flexible if it has a solid core, it doesn't make any sense. Flexible hydraulic hoses have a braided core that can be steel or nylon depending on the pressure rating, I've never heard of alloy braiding though.

Despite all the internet shrieking I use and have always used an ancient round bar clamp designed specifically for hydraulic hoses, this prevents any loss of fluid or ingress of air while removing calipers etc. As for changing the minute amount of fluid trapped in the ABS block, who cares, if you've changed 99.5% of the brake fluid then that's plenty good enough, rather like engine oil you'll never get the whole lot anyway.

The problem is in your head, not the ABS block, if there's no trapped air in the system then you don't need to bleed it, once you have a solid pedal with new fluid then it's job done. Air can't get into the ABS block unless you allow the reservoir to run dry during bleeding. So it's nonsense and there's nothing to worry about.

You need to clean it up first if you want to see where it's coming from, otherwise we're all just guessing and that makes for a messy and stupid thread.

You don't have to buy standard shocks and springs from the dealer, pattern stuff will be just fine and a lot cheaper, try a set of Lemforder springs with Bilstein B4 shocks all round. You can buy them off ebay, from your local factors or even mail order from Autodoc.

Any bare piece of metal, the whole car is grounded to the battery negative terminal. I strongly advise you to just buy a new battery and jump the car off it to get it open, then fit the new battery, the original battery won't be any good if it went dead flat in less than two weeks!

You can't tell, best to get the cooling system pressure tested and fix that pipe leak first.

That'll be a small radiator leak, look for signs down in the bottom right hand corner.

This will work, the starter solenoid is connected directly to the battery positive terminal, you just need to jack the front of the car high enough and put it on axle stands before attempting it, once you have jump leads connected you can operate the central locking.

I seriously doubt it, it's such obvious nonsense. Dunning Kruger writ large!

Dude, the thread's four years old, smoke from a 1.6 TDI is usually a sign of faulty injectors in which case additives won't help anyway. If there's nothing wrong with your car then the additive will do what additives do, which is nothing at all except to gently remove that purple banknote from your wallet while whispering promises in your eager ear.

No-one takes any notice because I don't witter on endlessly and I just tell it like it is.

I'd check the valvetrain for problems, cam wear or lifter failure would not be detected by a compression test.

It sounds like an injector is playing up, there should be a fault code to tell you which one.

It's a naturally aspirated low performance petrol engine, anything short of chip fat will be ok! Joking aside, it really isn't important, buy it cheap, change it often is the best strategy.

You can't have fast spool with a big turbo on a small engine, deleting the supercharger just makes it worse because net gasflow drops even more. Rallycross monsters used to inject fuel and air directly into the turbo like a rocket engine to make them spool faster, the downside was a huge jet of flame out of the exhaust. With the 1.4 TSI I'd be looking to maximise area under the curve, not create a gearbox smashing surge of power up the top at the expense of driveability and reliability. Headline figures are for dunces.

Stock EGR system?