sepulchrave

It sounds like the battery has gone flat somehow...

For even more clarity, are you saying the running engine just stopped with a popping noise and now won't restart and just clicks?

Some people are gadget perverts, many new cars come with so much crap fitted it makes them unreliable but gadget perverts want moar bells and whistles and flashing lights so they can make their old car feel new as well as making them less reliable. Got an old car? Stick crap all over it and pretend it's new.

I would get them made up with stainless fittings if you're going to go to all this trouble, it'll be cheaper and better than dealer parts.

That'll work nicely, the old belt should come off easily enough without cutting it, hopefully it will still retain enough elasticity to be reused.

From memory there's a tiny triangle on the crank pulley which needs to be at the top pointing vertically before you fit the crank locking tool, I seem to remember using a 6 or 7 mm drill bit to lock the cam in the right position before loosening the two pulley bolts, once you've done these steps you can go ahead and fit the new belt before releasing the tensioner keeper. It's pretty straightforward.

The belt is self tensioning but very hard to fit, do pay attention.

You have a stretchy belt and they don't last forever, cutting it off seems like the only option, I have no idea how you're going to get the new belt on without the special tool though.

No, it won't work properly, just replace yours if it's faulty otherwise don't bother.

Pre-cat is what the ECU relies on for closed loop running, post-cat is for emissions only, pre-cat is generally a wide band probe on most 16V engines.

You really need to remove the auxiliary belt first!

Pre-cat lambda probe is the most likely culprit, CTS is also a suspect.

I don't care, do you have a problem with the cooling fans or not?

It sounds like the condenser is getting heatsoaked, you need the fan to come on at full speed to cool it during hot weather.

A pattern caliper is fine, they're a simple piece of kit so there's no advantage to paying more.

Not a chance of getting rid of a dent that size unless you're a trained panel beater with access to the necessary tools, even then the wing will need repainting. I can't believe anyone would think otherwise, incredible!

Already answered your identical post, no need to spam us to death, we can read.

Us technical types don't really care about aesthetics if a tool works well and VCDS works better than almost anything else for VAG vehicles. You creative types worry too much about fonts and layouts and frilly knickers and stuff...

01596 refers to the recirculation flap motor and both my Fabias have had that code present as long as I've had the cars, it's ridiculously common and nothing to do with your other faults.

Low pressure and high pressure ports are different sizes to prevent mistakes. Otherwise they're standardised so that thing will fit the correct port for filling and measuring.

It's probably soot deposits in the cat getting burnt off, best not to mention speeds on here or the safety police tend to show up, I too drive very fast but you won't get me to admit to just how fast... You'll never take me alive copper!

Rice pudding skins everywhere will rejoice in their safety...

There's no need to change the fuel filter on a UK petrol car unless you're having fuel starvation issues, even then it's almost never the problem, UK fuel is very clean compared to some countries where these cars are sold. Counterintuitively, filters become MORE efficient as they gradually fill with trapped dirt so you're probably best off leaving well alone.

You have to fix the charging system and battery first, the pump you bought may be faulty as well.

11.6V is the reading from your battery, 14.4V is from the alternator. Your battery voltage is far too low, if it's new take it back under guarantee but please stop making me repeat myself, there's something wrong with it.