travs

Yes - weird name change but they’re and the same. Plenty of bits on there to look at for sure!

Look at Skoda update portal and see the map download - I’m guessing it’s a different part of the world map.

Superskoda/Kopacek are the place to go for black badges. They get a local dealer to spray to match your body colour. Match that to wrapping of the window surrounds. Aluminium pedals? Ottocast for wireless AA/Carplay? Cool white interior led bulb set?

On the basis of USB-C being mentioned in the front, then this sounds like a facelift and the SD slots aren't there. I could be wrong and there could be a changeover/crossover period but otherwise see if OP confirms trim and year

Not compared to the what I've been reading - with the engine up to temp and more steady-state throttle its better than frequent accelerations when the car is cold. If you've got a sensor out somewhere the mixture may be rich hence increased fuel, and therefore soot. Did the garage run a diagnostic on it and see if there were any fault codes?

You shouldn't have any reduction in ground clearance with different wheels - all that happens is that as you reduce the wheel diameter, the right tyre for the car has a higher side wall. The overall diameter of the wheel & tyre should remain the same. If not, the circumference changes and the speedometer is rendered less accurate. On the flip side, this does mean tyre pressure affects the ride more as a lower pressure will result in the tyre compressing more to absorb more bumps. Depending on whether the tyre pressures are low (or on the lower side of correct) could mean there's been a little more overall travel (tyre and suspension) than if the tyre was set for a fully loaded vehicle. Its not going to be much but it could have made the difference. I'm not spotting anything showing the panel gaps are woefully different but it does sound like something happened if you're getting a different sound. I think there are mounting points for the bonnet which may need adjusting. If nothing else, get yourself to a good independent and see if they can look it over with a little more of an experienced eye. A 4-wheel alignment may also be worth it in case any suspension components have taken a little more energy than imagined.

Googled and this came up - its a little generic but gives a decent explanation. 113k is a massive mileage for a 2023 car - what sort of driving do you tend to do? VW Passat is the most likely comparator - talks about a pressure sensor so I'd look at getting it scanned with something like OBDII or VCDS to see what fault codes may help point to it. Have you noticed economy taking a nosedive?

Not doing anything wrong per se. Updating maps just involves leaving the stick in the car and periodically check for map version and see what version is for the update. Some can take hours some days. The file is broken up into lots of bits so the system has lots of checkpoints to restart from as you switch the car on and off.

I had the guys at my Indy have a little look when they did the service and couldn't see anything obvious. I did speak to them about rotating the spring but they said that the spring goes in the cup and the end of the coil it butted up where it should be in the cup so I didn't think there was any room for adjustment on that unless its rotating the spring away from from its final position. I didn't look at the parts up close before taking them to be fitted and struggling to get a really good in depth video on youtube...

I was reading the TTRS and RS3 have wider track and so if they are slightly longer on the outward section of the arm for the wider track, but with our topmount position it would mean the wheel is leaning in at the top...? That's how it reads to me anyway. Would be interesting to see what results you get!

Trying to read plenty up on this - has this given you more negative camber? If so, any need to change the top mounts? Did you also get an alu subframe? £95 seems great value for a unit with ball joint per side rather than £00's for Superpro things!

That makes sense. Looks like one option for both sides rather than one each side? (Guess so otherwise the option to have one rolling and one straight would look ridiculous)

Yeah mibhelper only goes up to 324. There is 332 which you can get from my meganz ftp site (you can search for it)

Yep - generally 12.6 and over is good. 12.4 and below needs looking at. When engine not running and not plugged in. It’s useful to also look at State of Charge and State of Health. SoC is how charged it is like your phone battery % SoH is the battery’s capability compared to full charge when brand new. So - change battery get it coded (the car needs to be told a new battery has been put in) and with any luck the codes clear. Even it doesn’t solve the problem, it looks like it’ll need changing anyway. See if you can get the seller to contribute seeing as it was clearly on its way when they sold (and if they ever refer to the 3million point check they do presale, then this absolutely should have been 1 of them).

Dealer would be able to do a. Full diagnostic on the car. However given the age, a decent alternative would be a specialist VAG independent with a good reputation. They’ll have all the right stuff and be cheaper on the hourly rate. As to whether you repair or return - I’d say it depends if you like the car. Sounds like the seller is willing to entertain the idea of helping out with costs; the key word there is “reasonable” as that is subjective. The two main issues with electrical gremlins have always been and will always be: Battery on its way out. ABS sensor has gone duff. So first thing to do would be to check not only the charge of the battery but also the health of the battery. Traditionally it’s 4 years old, but going on anecdotal info on here, it could be anywhere between 5 and 15 years old - so age is always trumped by getting a decent multimeter on there to check it.

Although this thread will take an unexpected turn if you just start getting trolled with DIY suggestions 🤣

Googling seems to suggest 80k too. Either way, it’s simple to get it sorted. Mine’s just ticked over 30k but it’ll be 5 years old in March so will have it done then; especially given the tuning, it’s stupid not to.

This picture is bonkers - how on earth they suggest DQ381 is the only one that can do double the miles. It just makes VAG look shady like they’re looking for replacement costs because there is no logic to it on any of the basic info. Even the DQ500 needs 40k changes and that’s meant to be for higher power right?!

Tbh my wireless CarPlay on MIB3 is flakey so I tend to plug it in under the armrest so it doesn’t keep connecting and disconnecting. That might be dependent on the last letter of the Hardware part number as I’m sure I’ve seen various within the MIB3 family

I’m more than happy to be corrected by those that know far more than me - and @Cairus definitely knows more. “Solder” makes it a hard job for me but it’s subjective. Plenty wouldn’t have a problem pulling the board out and touching up the solder on it. Depends on your skills!

VCDS get direct from Rosstech. You can get a 3 or 10 licence version. You can run as many fault codes as you want but the licenses get used when you run adaptions. https://m.gendan.co.uk/vcds-hex-v2.php?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11491173747&gbraid=0AAAAAD_wnEnJZEuWeP4mxDjAOHr1G34Uo And also (someone please confirm) - you push back rather than wind back the piston.

I think there’s something about looking at where the loom comes from the roof to the boot, see if there is any damage to the accordion pipe that the wires run through.

Superb VRS3 insta page

The Superb VRS3 with the Audi RS3 engine swap (not the Skoda Sleeper btw) has Motec MCR2 Ultralight, which are now sitting on the periphery of my radar. They’re 8.9kg a wheel, compared to 14.9kg for Vega or 15.1kg for Trinity wheels. They’re flow-formed and seem to have a decent reputation. But a set of 4 19” 5x112 ET43 are about £1,000-£1,100 depending on exchange rate. Is it me or is that cheap for items with a pretty strong reputation?

I’m erring on the same; like it’s a little bit faddy or gimmicky. Still a bit on the fence but I do see where you’re coming from