travs

Map updates don’t need to be “started”; you just plug in the usb stick and it starts automatically. It also doesn’t need to be done in one process as the system sets lots of restart points as it’s done while driving and switching off. So if you were doing just map updates, it shouldn’t matter that the dash switched off. It would just restart when back on again. It does sound like the firmware is corrupted in some way though. Do you have enough time to hold down “Menu” button to get it into engineering mode?

Does it come back after you clear it?

Solution Finish for the wiper cap. Probs the best “back to black” type product

Yeah you’ve got DNFE engine like mine. THE best as it shares all the same hardware with the everything VW R/S3 so remaps are very beneficial.

I don’t think so but it would be understandable for any engine to use a tad.

Yours is pre-GPF right? Might be a different requirement. Or it just covers the 5w30 requirement etc

This is my engine bay - this is the gen4 engine so with a GPF.

Can of worms. So they tend to refer to VW 504 (which is paired with 507 as the diesel equivalent). It’s 5w30 Longlife but it wasn’t always. Google AI mentions low SAPS formula protecting emissions for the benefit of GPFs/DPFs so it may have been that since DNUA engine codes (EA888 Gen 3 with the GPF) onwards. Fairly sure if you search you can find people quoting VW504 as previously having at least a different viscosity. Either that or early (ie pre-GPF) 280s had a different oil requirement.

You’ve checked for updates? Can you check on the Ross-tech website and things like that?

Sounds like a decent roadtrip. Sorry for losing your wife. Hope you got the photo you were after 👍🏼

I had a B5 Audi S4 2.7 bi-turbo with KKK K03 turbos and the weaknesses were two-fold: Split in the various post-turbo rubber hoses which caused pressure drops and overspooling and, Running the turbo hot and then turning off meant oil would sit in the veins and cook, leaving a film of oil on the inside…this would then restrict the oil veins and cause oil starvation issues. Oil starvation would lead to bearings running dry and overheating. On that basis, if the turbo is starting to get hot and loud it may be something to do with oil starvation and the bearings, which would then cause play in the shaft. But this is all speculation. Best get it checked. Or, you know, Garrett Powermax 1… And yes the car is gorgeous.

As in, that wasn't a genuine number? or it will only call certain ones? otherwise, you might as well edit it for a favourite and have a car-based speed-dial button!

Should be just 308-332. Def skip 324, and I don't think you need 330, just that most the guys on here that updated to 332 were on 330. So definitely save yourself a bunch of money

I've just replaced my rear pads with those Brembo prime; seem smooth so far and no squealing from under-used DS2500 (although there wasn't much evidence of copperslip tbh so made up for that).

Good to know. I had an engine light the day before the first MOT. Car was fine but it turned out to be a throttle actuator needing resetting so good to know it could be something a little more permanent.

Interior cleanin product from a decent detailing product company - Carpro, Garage Therapy, Gyeon, Bilt Hamber. Even Autoglym interior cleaner is decent. Nice clean microfibre cloth, gentle agitation letting the product do the work.

Don't think reverse camera was an option. I have sunroof, (just sunroof, not pano being a hatchback) rear wiper (no cost on hatchback, probs standard on estate), hidden tow bar, extra connected USB under armrest, probably paint (black magic pearl), can't think of anything else...Oh the rear seatback drop pulls in the boot were an option too but I don't have them.

I'm presuming a fault code scan has been run but if not, then changing ECU is criminal without it.

Either way I think its a respray job because the panel probably needs re-prepping. Also, get it clearcoated too; none of this all-in-one single stage paint business. As for paint code, I think traditionally there was a sticker in the boot wheel well that had the paint code but mine doesn't have it so I think they stopped, or got sloppy. Business Grey is a well known Skoda SUperb colour though. A quick Google gives me LF7M or F7M which agrees with Sweperb.

If replacing as standard it shouldn't be too criminal costwise. I've had ATE Ceramic pads on and they are incredible for low dust characteristics - the wheels just did not get dirty for so much longer than normal pads. Basically, if it hadn't have happened in front of my eyes I wouldn't have believed it.

Rear pads changed. I’d had Ferodo DS2500 front and rear but developed a squeal from the rear which I suspect is because I don’t brake hard enough to keep them clean. Heavy braking sessions would remove it but it would soon come back. Basically, unless you’re driving hard, the rear brakes are a very heathy size compared to the front so the theory is that moving back to standard rear pads will clear it. Pads are Brembo OE spec, VCDS used, tools bought, bled them after, hoping job’s a goodun.

Just sounds like a high mileage driver. I think it’s mileage or time. Maybe they’ve overlooked that and just gone on time. It great but if they’re high miles driven well on the motorway then no biggy. Weird they clearly drive high miles but didn’t have the servicing in April of each year. Anyway seems like most things have been done if not on the button. If it runs well and seems in good condition then go for it. Don’t pay any attention to it looking clean; they’ll all be like that. What options does it have? Is it a Sportline or L&K…?

Although no biggy for that price if they only last half the time. Aside from the degree in engineering and windtunnel facilities needed to change a headlight bulb.

Much more clarity on that light beam. Those old bulbs look donald-ducked!

Ask for the service and maintenance history (service is literally the service, everything else like haldex/dsg etc is maintenance). On DCC don’t worry about misting, worry about leaking. One of mine went at 28k and 3 years old so they’re a bit of a ticking timebomb. Good time to upgrade to something like Bilstein B6s though. Yes to DSG at 40k. Bonkers that Skoda changed it to 80k on the dq381 but I’m sure there’s a myriad of reasons some of which we know or suspect and others not. Either way, you’re right to get it done if not in the history. Sparks you can do yourself if you’ve done them before. Special technique to get the electronic connectors off the coils (fingers behind, pull towards you, push up clip with thumbs). If you have a decent independent near you with a decent reputation you trust, I wouldn’t bother with the warranty. Haldex is every 2 years so that should have been once and second this year. Make sure they clean the gauze, not just change the oil. Brake fluid I think is 3 years so should have been done. Air con service is every couple I think so same as haldex. Don’t quote me on that. The good thing is the engine is seriously good. The continental (as in tyres) turbo on the high power is good for a reliable 450bhp. The hardware is the same as the Mk8 R, 8Y S3, TTS etc etc. the different outputs are down to mapping so you can remap with what must be the best bang for buck. It’s a DNFE engine which is EA888 gen4. Not gen3. That CJXA and DNUA on the pre-facelift and any supposedly knowledgeable websites don’t realise the difference. Good luck viewing!