travs

Interior cleanin product from a decent detailing product company - Carpro, Garage Therapy, Gyeon, Bilt Hamber. Even Autoglym interior cleaner is decent. Nice clean microfibre cloth, gentle agitation letting the product do the work.

Don't think reverse camera was an option. I have sunroof, (just sunroof, not pano being a hatchback) rear wiper (no cost on hatchback, probs standard on estate), hidden tow bar, extra connected USB under armrest, probably paint (black magic pearl), can't think of anything else...Oh the rear seatback drop pulls in the boot were an option too but I don't have them.

I'm presuming a fault code scan has been run but if not, then changing ECU is criminal without it.

Either way I think its a respray job because the panel probably needs re-prepping. Also, get it clearcoated too; none of this all-in-one single stage paint business. As for paint code, I think traditionally there was a sticker in the boot wheel well that had the paint code but mine doesn't have it so I think they stopped, or got sloppy. Business Grey is a well known Skoda SUperb colour though. A quick Google gives me LF7M or F7M which agrees with Sweperb.

If replacing as standard it shouldn't be too criminal costwise. I've had ATE Ceramic pads on and they are incredible for low dust characteristics - the wheels just did not get dirty for so much longer than normal pads. Basically, if it hadn't have happened in front of my eyes I wouldn't have believed it.

Rear pads changed. I’d had Ferodo DS2500 front and rear but developed a squeal from the rear which I suspect is because I don’t brake hard enough to keep them clean. Heavy braking sessions would remove it but it would soon come back. Basically, unless you’re driving hard, the rear brakes are a very heathy size compared to the front so the theory is that moving back to standard rear pads will clear it. Pads are Brembo OE spec, VCDS used, tools bought, bled them after, hoping job’s a goodun.

Just sounds like a high mileage driver. I think it’s mileage or time. Maybe they’ve overlooked that and just gone on time. It great but if they’re high miles driven well on the motorway then no biggy. Weird they clearly drive high miles but didn’t have the servicing in April of each year. Anyway seems like most things have been done if not on the button. If it runs well and seems in good condition then go for it. Don’t pay any attention to it looking clean; they’ll all be like that. What options does it have? Is it a Sportline or L&K…?

Although no biggy for that price if they only last half the time. Aside from the degree in engineering and windtunnel facilities needed to change a headlight bulb.

Much more clarity on that light beam. Those old bulbs look donald-ducked!

Ask for the service and maintenance history (service is literally the service, everything else like haldex/dsg etc is maintenance). On DCC don’t worry about misting, worry about leaking. One of mine went at 28k and 3 years old so they’re a bit of a ticking timebomb. Good time to upgrade to something like Bilstein B6s though. Yes to DSG at 40k. Bonkers that Skoda changed it to 80k on the dq381 but I’m sure there’s a myriad of reasons some of which we know or suspect and others not. Either way, you’re right to get it done if not in the history. Sparks you can do yourself if you’ve done them before. Special technique to get the electronic connectors off the coils (fingers behind, pull towards you, push up clip with thumbs). If you have a decent independent near you with a decent reputation you trust, I wouldn’t bother with the warranty. Haldex is every 2 years so that should have been once and second this year. Make sure they clean the gauze, not just change the oil. Brake fluid I think is 3 years so should have been done. Air con service is every couple I think so same as haldex. Don’t quote me on that. The good thing is the engine is seriously good. The continental (as in tyres) turbo on the high power is good for a reliable 450bhp. The hardware is the same as the Mk8 R, 8Y S3, TTS etc etc. the different outputs are down to mapping so you can remap with what must be the best bang for buck. It’s a DNFE engine which is EA888 gen4. Not gen3. That CJXA and DNUA on the pre-facelift and any supposedly knowledgeable websites don’t realise the difference. Good luck viewing!

I don't think this is a birdbomb alone. My instinct would be to say that that is a respray with sub-par panel prep, or a single-stage respray (colour-layer and clearcoat all in one). You can test the latter by using some polish on an area near and see if the cloth has colour on it (I don't think Skoda uses coloured clearcoats). I've seen it be absorbed into clearcoat (what is commonly referred to as 'etching'), but it needs to be left on the paint in the sun as the clearcoat opens up in the heat and absorbs the contaminant. To seemingly go through clear and penetrate into colour to the extent it lifts it doesn't pass the smell test for a factory paintjob...

Either way, I think the best place to start is autotrader...😇

This came up recently - definitely normal

Ok - next likely is a wheel speed sensor; usually the rear left. Not sure on any way to check other than looking for fault codes thrown.

When was the battery changed last? Random gremlins are very common the battery getting to end of life.

Few snaps from work. Such a good-looking car.

Any random electrical gremlins should always be considered first as the result of a battery on its last legs. Unless you’ve changed it in the last 22 months, I’d do that first and see

They're brilliant for low dust - amazing how clean the wheels stayed when running them.

Meh - then it wasn't meant to be. Could have been a dog, could have been a gem. Either way, tomorrow's another day.

If you planning on updated pads, leave the rears standard. I have DS2500 all round and the rears pads squeal as I don’t brake hard enough often enough. I have to brake late and hard. Thinking of swapping rear pads back to standard which will be a real waste but I’m just not using them. The 310mm are just a little too big for the 340mm front.

Following on from JRRS’ points, it won’t rub because the wheels are already inside the wheel arch and when the suspension compresses, the wheels curve inwards rather than straight up. Even with wider tyres and spacers as suggested there’ll still be sufficient clearance. The Superb has a naturally tucked setup. Look from behind and you can see the wheels sit in-board compared to the body. Mine sits about 30mm lower and is absolutely fine too. You could always swap to 235/35. Makes the speedo over-read by an extra 1-2mph (but that’s a safer misread) but the car sits lower but gives a little more arch gap. But you really don’t need to do that at all.

Definite red flag on no history. Bit odd that there’s absolutely no history but is that place from Skoda HQ? If not, approach them. Gearbox should be serviced at 40k miles so it’s due if it hasn’t been done. Haldex is every 2 years now but it use to be 3 so it should have had 3 services. However the exceptionally limited mileage (if genuine but assume you’ve checked that on the MOT history) should have mitigated running on poor servicing to some extent. My gut feel is they’re pricing it on mileage. If you ask too many questions on servicing etc they won’t bother wasting their time as they know they’ll get that a lot (if not already) and they’ll flip it to auction to be sold as seen. DSG service you’re looking at a few hundred. Each Haldex is about 150 so if nothing’s been done you want to factor in at least 600 for those. If it were me, it’d be an oil change straight away, and possibly brake fluid, air con, plugs. You’re looking at best part of £1k just for peace of mind. Then you want to be looking at the state of the brakes, cabin filter (easy miss if minimum maintenance has been carried out) and look at the air filter too; again that will give you an idea of whether it’s not been touched in a while. Low mileage can be great but it can also mean very short trips, not running the car up to temp often, and prolonged periods of sitting around. So it basically comes down to how the owner cared for it. It’s worth a look, but keep your eyes open, radar switched on and ignore pretty much everything the salesman tells you.

I do prefer an angled look than perpendicular to the car. I also think if they weren’t diamond cut they’d look slightly softer. But they’re a good looking wheel in general, they’re forged, rare as hen’s teeth and exceptionally light. Are they perfect for the car? Maybe not but I absolutely love them for all that they are.

Adding @Tiglon to this list too. Cheers Will!

If you click on people's profile, you can see when they last logged in; especially important when a thread is a little old.