travs

It’s more anecdotal than indicative of anything - good time saving. The manual doesn’t show anything like those sorts of options by the looks of it. Tbh I tend to just use one of the ones on CarPlay - every time I think I know better than Waze I get it wrong; the only caveat is it relies on user data like the other main systems, just active reporting as well as macro data from speed etc.

Brill - hope all is good from here on in! Not a problem on the help; it’s what the forum’s for. I’ve had plenty so only right to pay it forward 👍🏼

Hope the divorce goes smoothly!

Thinking about dialling out variables. It does look like the previous steering column issue wasn’t solved and 12 months on is not reasonable. Did you get an invoice or is there an entry into the electronic service record to backup that the clock spring was replaced and not just fiddled with? If the car is under warranty then all the investigation costs should be covered under warranty too but at 2020 it’s not the original. On that basis I can’t emphasise enough to find a decent reputable VAG specialist in your error and go with them. They’ll charge less, more likely to want to rely on their reputation and won’t have their training move on to Mk4 only etc.

Think the Hardrace one gets very decent reviews and a bit cheaper. It’s 25.4mm rather than 26mm but still plenty good enough for tracking the car. Mine is 24mm Whiteline but if I had it again I’d go with Hardrace.

Depends what version you have. Also depends on what MIB you have. What model and year is the car?

While more experienced people will be able to identify it in their sleep, I'd say it would be good to have a bit more context - what engine is it? Something plugged onto the end of a cylinder head with an electronic plug on says something to do with the Crankshaft Position Sensor as an absolute stab in the dark...

Gotcha - easy way to solve. Fingers crossed that was the problem!

Sorry I didn’t see this. Honestly Carpro Cquartz is fine. It’s older now but still does well. 2 coats and you’re golden.

Hold down the power button until the unit powers off and then comes on with the Skoda symbol.

64gb should be fine as yes you have to with maps. You could try 306 first. I’m certain 308 covered most trains before but it’s possible it didn’t go all the way back that far. I only have 308/330/332 on my link but do you know how to get to the Preh folder on mibsolution? You could pick up 306 there for sure

Mibhelper does mention an additional download as FAT32 so maybe try formatting as that, just as an easy variable covered.

Looks like you’ve covered the basics re formatting and unpacking. Nothing else on the stick and those folders are in the root?

That's an interesting setup - I'd read a few stories on forums about aftermarket top mounts and Bilsteins, and Bilstein not honoring warranty with anything other than OE parts. Ironic given, as you have, Bilstein do one themselves. I'll bear the silicon grease on the control arm bushes in mind - but the sound really seems like it comes from the top, and, until last night, didn't seem to be over bumps, just turning the wheel. Last night I had a squeak over speed humps but from the driver side. The other problem is whether these things travel and sound like they're emanating from a different place. Seems like lots of hit and miss solutions on forums. TT Top mounts, over-torqued top mount bolts, various shims or rubber inserts into springs, spring orientation in the cup...feels like its all going to be trial and error.

Interesting. Noted they're both nearside. The Phirm did mine and they know their onions on this so I wouldn't have thought the spring position would be something overlooked but it would be silly to rule anything out at this stage. It really sounds like its coming from the top of the strut so its either the mounts or bearings aren't happy/sitting correctly/shafted or I don't know what. Something else I've now noticed...now the mornings are colder, it doesn't happen when cold

Interesting - were they new Superb top mounts when the B16s were put on? And the Arteons are better? Also - how is the correct spring position identified, or not identified? Feels like it’s either right or wrong and obvious as to which? Mine’s also passenger side. Although I’ve just driven the car and now had a bit of a squeak from the front driver’s side when going over speed tables 🤦🏻‍♂️

I thought so given that was on B6 but Awesam seems to have thrown a spanner in the works there

You’ll have a Mode button with different profiles but you’ll know you have DCC if you look at the i button on each one and it’ll tell you whether the DCC is set to comfort, normal or sport. Otherwise put it in Sport and the shocks will firm right up. But if not then non-DCC is at least cheaper to replace. Standard move is Bilstein B6 with either standard or Eibach lowering springs depending if you want a change. But there are other options for your preference. It’s then a good time to change the top mounts as it all has to come out anyway. I think for now it’s probably more an irritant than a need to change.

Well that’s interesting. Following on from our messages, I applied to MHH forum but didn’t realise you need to pay for a registration code. Didn’t want to have to do that but if you have the files the only stumbling block is VCPro. It’s £255 to buy one (with 12months free licence) and then £45 subscription after that. With VCDS already it just isn’t worth it. If I was buying one or the other then I probably would have gone for VCP seeing as there doesn’t seem to be anything VCDS can do that VCP can’t…but that ship has sailed.

Mine’s a bit hit or miss but can definitely hear it from the left (nearside) and almost always turning right but occasionally unwinding from right lock or steering left. But we’ve come to the same point from different means so there will be differences. Has the car got DCC? What’s the model and year?

Well with the caveat that you know cars…could any number of other things but that’s where my money is. Happens steering in both directions?

100k on discs and pads is bonkers. Good going!

Front top mounts. I’m getting exactly the same sound after swapping the suspension for coilovers and replacing the standard ones with the items for the Arteon as they are thicker. Think that was a mistake with my setup. Doesn’t happen first thing in the morning when everything’s cold but it happens when it’s warmed up and expanded. The top mounts come in two parts - the mount and the bearing (which allows the suspension leg to twist). My opinion. Get both, absolutely standard OE items for both fronts and have them changed.

There were some things needed from much earlier versions like 156 but I'm note sure when they weren't necessary; to do with FEC/SWAP codes which I think is to do with Navigation licence. Ah found it HERE But I've read some guy having troubles from updating 330 to 332 and that definitely is odd. I've seen plenty of updates from 278 through to 332 (you need 308 as a stepping stone) and nothing about reactivating codes or losing navigation etc. Here's the link to my folder - it has 308, 330 and 332 in; you need 308 first then 332.

What 5F module do you mean Phil? It should be just download and unpack it on a stick, plug it into your car, hold down MENU to enter engineering mode (black screen, small red text) then hit the options to update software. I don't think there's anything else needed... For battery chargers, only CTEK gets mentioned here and they are very good. I bought the CTEK CT5 Start/Stop which sits in the lower middle of the range; does the job for me. I ashamedly bought on Amazon.