KeithCheetham

Manufactures quoted figures are general totally inaccurate and should be dis-regarded in the real world as they do not take into account driving styles, road traffic conditions, actual roads - flat, hilly etc. Speaking with actual experience, my Greenline has averaged 53.2 mpg over 13745 miles (51.2 mpg over 55088 miles when it was my partners car) measured via actual fuel going in vs reported (how inaccurate is a tripmeter) mileage. Most of that distance to work/back would be classed as extra urban with a daily round trip of 52 miles so makes a mockery of the quoted figures for the most economical (Greenline) Fabia. Suffice to say, if you compare same powers - 70 or 80 bhp - which have basically the same engines and gearboxes, they should be the same as I would expect gearing to be the same - except the Greenline with its high ratio box.

Reducing the pressure will reduce the rolling diameter which is like putting on lowering springs. How about more suitable front tyres at full pressure with the best rolling diameter being found from a tyre calculator.

All this talk of wheel diameter and tyre wall aspect ratio's can never resolve the ultimate issue of compromised ground clearance and will just confuse matters if the OP is considering a 40mm lift is required. I assume that the spacers would also upset the camber on the front, throwing the top of the wheel out.

Are these aftermarket, as while the "3" model had parking sensors I thought these were only audible and not linked to the head unit. May be wrong, but this detail may require clarification to allow factual responses.

To all extents should be considered the same engine for working on, the MK 2 model 1 had 70 and 80BPH, model 2, 3 and Greenline were 80BHP only. The ECU on the Greenline is an EDC17 which has to be opened up and mapped on a bench, unsure on the 1, 2 and 3 as these may be an EDC15 for which you can download and upload maps through the OBD2 port as on my MK 1 1.4TDI. I do not believe a DMF was fitted to any 1.4TDI. The Greenline has a taller ratio gearbox resulting in 30mph (@ 1700rpm) being best in 3rd gear unless you like to rattle the gears. Is the question due to you looking to upgrade - my MK 1 was also 70BHP and the Greenline is a leap forward in performance even though it only has 10BHP more, but the torque is about 114 vs 143 lb/ft with the 80BHP being at a much lower engine speed. Saying that I was impressed with the performance of my MK 1 70 which climbed/scurried over the Pennines every day to work.

I think the105 was in the Mk 2 (07 on) but unsure what the difference is to the 100 - mapping only or mechanical components? There can be issues such as head lift when tuning the 130, so if going down that route you really need to review how deep your pockets are now, and down the line.

As Sep advised, the standard 1.9 TDI is an excellent starting point with plenty of scope for tuning - either professionally or "at home" as the EDC15 ECU can be modified at home via the OBD port and a purchased generic map. Unfortunately Blacksmoke no longer advertises on the bay as he had a good reputation on many Skoda, VW, Audi forums for his £40 maps, would be wary of some of the ones being sold. Unsure of your comment "2nd gen estate" as there was a Mk1 facelift which may be considered 2nd gen, but if you mean the Mk2 the pre facelift version was also fitted with the 1.9 TDI, although I am unsure of the ECU fitted in those - these may require a bench remap. Would you want the VRS bumper and the flimsy VRS cloth seats that all appear to have warn bolsters, surely a Q car is more fun - looks like a standard old mans car until someone tries to pass.

Think that this will be a dismantle job to see what is happening. Does the key rotate left and right in the lock with the same angular movement as the passenger door. lock cylinder sets - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) The link may not exactly match your car but should be a starting point to components fitted. Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Body > Body Work > Front door, central locking > Front door > Removing and installing the lock cylinder housing (workshop-manuals.com) Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Body > Body Work > Front door, central locking > Front door > Summary of components of door handle and door lock (workshop-manuals.com)

Your replies have put a whole new slant on the issue give the fine cold starts, so agree with Sep on the Coolant Temperature Sensor as a starting point. Do you actually have a temperature indicator - my same year Greenline 1.4TDI only has a blue light that goes out at 45 deg.C so I never knew what temp was until I installed Torque on Android head unit which highlighted a faulty thermostat (irrelevant to this post but shows how additional info can assist, hence my lengthy questions). There has been a recent post of a car not starting as CTS was giving a reading that car was overheating but this was when cold. You may be able to disconnect the CTS as a trial to eliminate that item, although it may effect running. No venting required as the in tank pump does this, hence my comment on the multi ignition use pushing any possible air out.

To me this sound like like either air in system. or heater plugs - revving could either purge air or take the "chill" out of the cylinders - but again more info is required:- 1/ How long have you had the car and how long have you had this issue. 2/ Is this issue just from stone cold, i.e. overnight, or also later in day if you have run it in the morning. If just the morning does the night temp change the way it starts, 3/ Any smoke on a bad start. 4/ Depending on how long you have had it, how is the cranking speed. having to increase revs when started would generally suggest this is not an issue and may be down to air in the system. The key on/off cycling could purge air with the repeated running of the fuel pump - there could be diesel leak back when not running, but could also add extra heat into the cylinder through multi use of the heater plugs, but on my 1.4TDI I never wait for the heater plug light to extinguish and it always starts/ticks over so do not expect heater plugs to be an actual requirement - based on my NW UK location.

A DPF regen noise would last for quite a few miles. On my 1.4TDI Greenline the engine noise deepens when doing a regen and is quite noticeable.

Bought 12 off today, 08/02/22, from RRG Skoda in Rochdale with an invoice price of £0.67 each giving a final price with the VAT of £9.65. I also tried VW Oldham (£0.80 each) and Pentagon Seat (£1.00 each) as I was looking for best delivery as car had popped a wheel cylinder so was off the road, and I decided that as these were original now (110K miles) was probably a good time for change. Makes the Ebay This part is brand NEW, directly from factory (Not Chinese replacement or Refurbished like other sellers have for same price), 100% suitable and Original prices where some are £7.00 to £9.33 each appear rediculas.

bungs; sealing strip; mask film - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) This info is based on 2012 model year that you may want to change. Sizes may be useable for alternates.

I did not know that, as while I knew one was fitted to the 1.9 VRS TDI - not sure which of the 2 engines - the last vehicle I was aware of that had a flap that was actuated in relation to the throttle pedal was a Sherpa Diesel which I believe gave a vacuum in the inlet manifold for the brake servo, so every day is a school day. Regarding high mileage, my 56 plate 1.4 TDI Classic (OY56VYL) had 167K miles on the clock the last time I MOT'd it in Sept 2015 before I decided that I fancied a 1.9 TDI Elegance for all the extra comfort gadgets such as heated seats/mirrors. I gifted the 1.4 to a friend who ran it for another 2 years with last MOT mileage of just under 179K.

Glad it has suited. Lets see some photos of the holder in closed and open modes to close out the tutorial for those who have not seen how neat they are/work.

These are not applicable on a diesel. If you look at a diesel runaway videos you will see that the engines can run on their own sump oil, typically if a turbo oil seal goes, with the general only way of stopping these if stationary is to block the air inlet and starve them of air as there is no inlet flap to do this. A flap would allow only minimal air in that would be insufficient to burn enough oil for high revs. 5 Worst Diesel Fails (Runaway Diesels, any diesel owner's nightmare) - Bing video

If you are unsure what oil is in it, I would suggest changing anyway just for peace of mind. Do you know what model it is based on my comments in earlier post. VRN - Oil (tps.trade)

Being a 2009 it will fall into the Mk2 model, which are generally 1, 2, 3 and Greenline models - there is a Sport but this is quite rare. The official 2009 brochure quotes the 1 as 70 or 80 BHP, the 2 and 3 as only 80 BHP and the Greenline as a 80BHP with a DPF. I have owned a Mk1 70BHP 1.4 TDI and now have a Mk2 80 BHP 1.4 TDI Greenline, and while they are day/night with power and delivery I have never really found either lacking as I drive on the torque curve at the lower end of the rev range - most of my driving in both was long climbs over the Pennines at both end of the day. Town driving should not be a problem, just keep to the standard servicing regime and ensure that the correct specification of oil is used.

Having done a few over the years on my 3 Fabias, I would also recommend at least buying the top bearings {as opposed to the top mounts) which you may find fall apart when the springs are removed from strut - this stops the replacement process. Top mount on left, actual bearing on right - a top mount will not necessarily come with a bearing. Also ensure you fit the spring the correct way up. I used a ring spanner on the strut top nut and found that it is easier to slacken off when strut on car, car on wheels - just undoing a 1/4 turn.

Biggest problem for me here is that this was not posted in the existing "VRS Review and Photo post", or the "Fabia Gallery - Mk2" section. Like Sep, I have no interest in how a car looks and visit this forum section to get or give technical support, be that mechanical or electrical (for which I generally rely on the likes of Wino).

Looks to be TR at the start of the plate which would suggest Turkey as country of registration/use.

See the post linked below for basic info, but looks like a Mk2 to Mk2 facelift instrument cluster swap so unsure how gauges would work - early has blue lamp until 45 deg.C temp reached and bar graph for fuel while later car has needle gauges. That is in addition to how any onboard computer info is reported. For spare key this would need cutting and then coding to immobilizer which requires equipment generally not available at a affordable price.

Miss representation of the legal identity of a motor vehicle on that front-ish plate - wonder if that invalidates insurance? Plus the fact that is not fitted in the correct position.

The engine is what make the object a motor car, otherwise it would be a roadside shed that doesn't require the other components. Use your OBD2 with Torque or similar to give you a visible baseline of what is actually happening - this is what is call Root Cause Analysis and will give a good starting point which has allowed people to proved invaluable in many cases such as temperature issues, turbo boost issues, charging/voltage issues without the cost of purchasing a programme such as VCDS which is dedicated to the VAG group where many others do not cover all the modules in these vehicles. This is not to say that you cannot use one for generic code reading/clearing codes as a starting point. Lack of factual information can result in guessed or irrelevant suggestions being replied.

You have no way of knowing if it is a working stat unless you remove and try in a pan of water or view temperatures in a way that allows tracking fluctuations. Cannot remember what readings the gauge gives on a Mk1 as a while since my previous 2 Mk1 TDI's - is it actually calibrated in degrees C or just in 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 as your initial post suggests . What make you say heater cabin is fine, is this based on another Fabia TDI or just a gut feeling. A bluetooth OBD2 and Torque App on a phone or tablet will give actual values - as accurate as the sender allows - but will allow you to track temps - does it ever give a basically stable reading or does it rise/fall over a large range. My Mk.2 Greenline only has a blue light that extinguishes at 45 deg.C but using the Torque method showed that I never reached 90 deg.C until I fitted a new stat.