chimaera

Also, if you don't know for certain where fuel is leaking from, don't open the bonnet with the engine running. Fuel leaking from the high pressure lines is pressurised to ~2000 bar and will cause serious injuries if it hit you.

No, almost certainly a problem with the fuel lines in the engine bay. If there is fuel all over the engine bay you need to park the car until it is cleaned up. Fuel splashing on hot engine parts is very likely to start a fire. I would suggest you find a good fuel injection specialist and trailer the car to them to have it repaired by someone who knows what they're doing.

On older cars there was a correction procedure for the reserve limit but I have not seen anything similar documented for our cars. It involved draining the tank and refilling it with exactly 9 l of fuel then using an adaptation channel in the instruments to position the needle at the top of the red zone on the fuel gauge.

That's what we established further up the thread. The car tells you it's empty when there are 8-9 l left in the tank.

From the owner's manual.

Modern wheel bearings are usually a sealed cartridge unit and not user serviceable. You can replace the cartridge itself if you have access to a bearing puller and press. You can also buy the hub assembly with the bearing included which just bolts into place. A little more expensive in parts but no special tools needed. You'll need a torque wrench to tighten the centre bolt that secures the CV joint to the hub.

Using the wrong bulbs is a different sort wrong than misaligned headlights. Misalignment will only cause dazzle directly in front of the vehicle and is easily corrected. LEDs and HIDs will scatter light in all directions (I've seen overhead signs on the motorway lit up by HIDs as they were right under it) which is a lot worse for drivers around you. All that scattered light is wasted too so at the end of the day you're probably not gaining much compared to good quality high output halogens.

LEDs have the same problems as HIDs when used in a lamp designed for halogen bulbs. The light source is the wrong shape and in tge wrong place so it'll scatter light and dazzle other drivers.

Superb 2 uses electric power assistance rather than hydraulic, so no fluid to be changed.

Get OSRAM Nightbreakers. You'll get more useful light on the road compared to standard halogen, without blinding everyone else on the road.

I just dug out the wiring diagrams to check what each connector is going. The black one on the far right is the connector for the rear parking sensors, so that's the one you need to be looking at for problems. The brown one in the middle on my photo is the connector for the front parking sensors, so if you don't have them there's no reason for it to be there. Was there any response from the controller when it was scanned with VCDS? If not, there's a problem with the controller itself, the power supply to it, or the CANBUS lines are damaged. If it did respond, there's a problem with the wiring from the controller to the sensors. I'd be surprised if the CANBUS lines were damaged as the parking aid controller sits on the drivetrain CANBUS network and if the car is starting and driving normally it's unlikely there's damage there. I'd start fault finding by checking the integrity of the wiring to the controller and from there to the sensors. Fuse 5 on the dashboard fuse panel is the one that powers the system, so check if that's ok first. It's also useful to pop out the fuse and see if there's power available on the top contact for it. At the controller, check that there's power available at pin 1 of the brown 16-pin connector: that's the power supply from the fuse. Probe from that pin to ground on a nearby earth point or some bare metal on the bodywork to see if it has power. Do a continuity check from pin 8 of that connector to ground as well to make sure there's no break in that wire. If everything on the power side checks out, I'd go to checking continuity on the connections between the parking sensors and the black connector. Start with the leftmost sensor as that one is the master power supply for the 4 sensors. Check from the black connector at the controller to the connector on the sensor. Controller pin 11 to sensor pin 1 (red/green wire) Controller pin 5 to sensor pin 2 (blue/white wire) Controller pin 8 to sensor pin 3 (brown/green wire) For the other three sensors, check continuity along the red/green wire between each connector (power supply) and the brown/green wire (earth/ground). For the signal wires, check continuity back to the controller connector: Controller pin 3 to centre left pin 2 Controller pin 2 to centre right pin 2 Controller pin 4 to rightmost pin 2 If everything has checked out so far, I'd suggest taking a look at the towing electrics that were fitted. If they're OE and were fitted properly there should be no impact on the parking sensors. OE electrics will also show up in a VCDS scan at address 69. Skoda sell the electric kit and the towbar separately, so it's entirely possible for someone to fit a Skoda towbar with aftermarket electrics. If the OE electrics are fitted, you should find the controller attached inside the boot liner panel, on the left hand side of the boot beside the tailgate opening (more or less behind the light cluster). It possible for it to be fitted on the right hand side too (this would be normal for installing on LHD cars, and some people do it that way on RHD to avoid stripping out the boot liner on the left). If there are aftermarket electrics used, you'll need to track down how they were wired in and whether that could have disrupted or damaged the parking sensor system.

Do you have front parking sensors?

It sits on the wheelarch pressing facing the rear, so it wouldn't be too far from the side of the storage compartment in the side. You can see it on the right in this picture I took during my towbar install.

It's a pain in the arse to remove. Your best option is to go to https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do, pay for an hour's subscription, and download the service manual. For this particular job, you need the Body Work pdf, but an hour is enough time to download everything else for the car too.

It's a fairly straightforward swap, I did it on ours last year. We went for Amundsen plus with integrated Bluetooth. Apart from the unit itself you need microphone and GPS antenna.

+1 for Michelin CrossClimate.

The B5 had a bigger tank (62 vs 60 l). I suspect the reserve point is set at a higher volume too. I think the biggest fillup I've ever done on mine is around 55 l and the MFD was showing less than 20 km remaining. I have corrected the MFD fuel consumption factor so it reads true as well. It looks like it makes sure there is still a bit left in the tank when the gauge hits zero. It's also not clear how much of the tank volume is available for fuel, or how tank volume is determined/specified.

Behind the front bumper on the passenger side. The easiest way to get to them is to jack up the car and pop out the passenger side wheelarch liner.

The 2.0 16-valve PD was a major redesign of the PD engine and was (I'm pretty sure) designed for DPF fitment from the outset, which is why I didn't draw the distinction between CR & PD in relation to the 2.0 TDI on the Superb 2. The PD was an interim solution while they were finishing off the newer CR engines.

TIL the tandem pump does both fuel & vacuum. I've never really had hands-on experience with PD engines, I went straight from VE to CR, so a chunk of my knowledge on PDs is a bit more theoretical. In general, vacuum leaks tend to arise from damaged fittings and lines rather than the pump itself failing. The vacuum system is doing at least 2, and often 3 jobs: brake servo, EGR actuator, and, if it's vacuum operated, turbo vane actuator. If you've ever been in around any of those areas and messed with vacuum lines, you may have leaks around there. Broken tees and other fittings are a common cause of vacuum problems so I'd suggest going around the whole system to check for damage before blaming the pump. Apart from anything else it's much less expensive to fix that stuff first.

You should be able to identify which is which if you pop one out. I'd start there. Worth swapping them side to side too to see if the problem is with the bulb or further back.

The drive you describe is not really bad enough to break something out of the blue. Human perception is notoriously unreliable - ask any experimental psychologist. This problem has probably been building quietly for a while, but you're noticing it now because the bumpy drive heightened your perception of it. There may be none left and this could well be the culprit.

What brand did you replace the bulbs with?

I wouldn't be too quick to blame the bumpy road. You may not have noticed the vibration until the rough travel made you pay a lot of attention to it. The sound insulation in the car is good enough that you may not hear a worn bearing. You mention a split gaiter: if this is on a CV joint then it's possible that the joint is dead and needs replacing. It would certainly cause vibration if a CV joint is gone. You don't mention what wheels your car has. The 18" ones can buckle if driven over very rough ground. Badly buckled wheels could result in vibration. You would need to have them checked by a competent tyre fitter. If you turn towards the drivetrain, a worn out DMF in the manual or DSG would cause vibration. Worn injectors could cause vibration too. You would need a fuel injection specialist to figure that out.

Roomster is just a slightly bigger Fabia, mechanically they're almost identical. Any Roomster wheels will be fine on the Fabia and vice versa.