chimaera

A 170 bhp is more than likely going to have 312 mm front and 286 mm rear disks. If I remember rightly, brake codes are one of the ones they don't put on the build label. If you go to https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do and download the Vehicle Specific Information document for your VIN it will have the full list of PR codes for your car. An hour's sub would be enough for that. You can also download service manuals there.

Oil expands as it gets hotter, if the oil gets too hot during the change procedure the volume check will result in a lower fill than is needed. Cycling through the gears can be done using the tiptronic function - from D pop the selector lever to the left, push forward to go up, pull back to go down. This procedure ensures the new fluid gets into all the moving parts while the transmission is not loaded up.

A quick check is to cycle the aircon off/on with the engine idling (keep the radio off) and listen for a change in engine note. If things are working normally you should hear a slight dip in the engine note as the load comes on from the compressor. Failure can be one of several things: broken drive linkage in the pulley hub, failed clutch, leak in the refrigerant loop, failed compressor.

There is only one port on the gearbox which is at the bottom. Filling from the top is not possible. You need diagnostics to monitor transmission fluid temperature during the change procedure, which includes starting the engine and cycling through the gears after the initial fill. If you want to tackle the job, go to https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do and download the service manuals. An hour's subscription is usually enough to get all the pdfs for the car.

You will also need diagnostic equipment and a special adapter for filling the gearbox - drain and fill use the same port at the bottom of the housing so you need the fill adapter to actually be able to fill it. This is one of those jobs where the savings for DIYing it are marginal compared to dealer/indy.

The oil does a huge amount of work in there: lubrication of moving parts, hydraulic fluid for actuators, cooling of the internals. If the car has done a lot of urban driving, the fluid is probably done for.

First thing is get a fault scan done and see if the ECU has recorded any codes.

As far as I can tell, it's compatible with the coolant in your car which is a good start. It can be used concentrated if you wish, it won't do any harm, you'll just use more than you'd need to if you diluted it. If you are diluting it, you must use distilled or deionised water. Regular tap water will have impurities in it that can precipitate out and scale up the cooling system (much like how it causes scale buildup on the kettle in the kitchen). It's not expensive at motor factors.

The heating mat is a separate part to the leather cover. Replacing the heating mat (which also contains the temperature sensor for the controller) means removing the cover first. Refitting it needs some special upholstery pliers and a supply of hog rings.

If you want some more technical detail on wheels & tyres, I summarised most of it here:

You could purchase the wiring diagrams at the link langers2k posted further up the thread.

Lubricity is one of the major plus points of biodiesel - it's one of the secondary reasons for allowing to be used in mineral diesel blends, to compensate for the lower lubricity of desulphurised diesel.

The engines are designed to run on EN590 spec diesel, which allows up to 7% EN14214 spec biodiesel. Anything else is going to cause problems for PD or CR TDI engines as it is more viscous than mineral diesel and the injectors can't handle it. It also has a higher melting point so in cold weather you are likely to clog your fuel filter with solid particles of biodiesel. Biodiesel is also an oxygenated fuel, so without a remap, it's going to confuse the lambda sensor since that control loop is tuned for the stoichiometry of mineral diesel.

What engine is fitted? What transmission? 2 or 4 wheel drive? What is the service history like?

Probably damaged wiring between the driver's door and the A-pillar, a pretty common problem. The driver's door has the master controller for central locking, electric windows and wing mirrors, so damage to the wiring there has wide ranging behaviour.

Looks like a heat shield, should probably be refitted.

It's worth checking the condition of the front dampers. I changed out front springs and dampers on my Superb last summer, trying to resolve a creak on large wheel movements (it's still there!), and was pleasantly surprised at the lack of rumbling and thumping noises coming from the front afterwards. Like many of these things it had probably crept in gradually and was only noticed by its absence afterwards. The dampers were in pretty poor shape, one was leaking and the other was fairly soft if not quite at the point of leaking when it came off.

Slightly off-topic here, but clunking from the front could also be worn dampers.

Mine's a 2012 Elegance, registered early March. CR170 DSG estate. I'm pretty sure all Elegance models had the Columbus + BT setup, but the BT setup on earlier cars doesn't play well with newer phones. If you do a search it's something that has been discussed a fair few times.

Elegance spec comes with the Columbus as standard, and the Bluetooth module under the driver's seat. I've had no complaints from people about call quality in nearly 6 years of ownership. OE microphone is fitted inside the front map light console at the top of the windscreen.

I've had an assortment of SDHC/SDXC cards in mine and they've worked fine. I wouldn't bother loading stuff onto the internal HDD - read times from the SD card are much faster. MP3 format definitely works, not sure about other compressed formats.

The dipped beams are controlled by the rotary switch on the dashboard to the right of the steering column (assuming your car is RHD). That's the one you need to concentrate on first.

You could have bad contacts on the dipped beam position. Have you checked for continuity across the terminals in that switch?

Apparently it's common enough for the crankcase vent valve to break where it enters the intake manifold. Our one behaves exactly as you describe and that valve is broken on it. The local dealer will have one for me on Monday. P/N is 030 103 175 B It's on the back of the manifold, towards the right hand side. If the weather improves a bit I'll try and grab a photo for you.

They're not hollow, but modern engines that are engineered to use a DMF from the outset will have lightened crankshafts compared to engines that were originally engineered to use a SMF, because the DMF absorbs a bunch of the vibrations and shock loads from the transmission. Putting a SMF into a newer engine is not a great idea. A new DMF now is likely to last the remaining lifetime of the car unless you're putting up very high mileage and it's much smoother and more refined than a SMF conversion.