chimaera

I think it's the same for 2wd or 4wd, I don't recall seeing anything on it that wouldn't work on a 4x4 when I fitted mine (OE Skoda).

Did you see if the manual override to open/close it will work? It'd help determine if it's the motor or mechanism that's broken.

Superb 2 is heavier than the Octavia 2, so will be slower with the same engine. If you're looking at 2015, you are getting into early Superb 3 territory as an option too which has slightly different engine options. As suggested further up, test drive a few and see what you like/don't like. Ignore any advice to buy a plug-in tuning box, they're a bad job. If you really want more power, start by buying the engine that matches your performance expectations. In NI, you still have the option to buy in GB without getting fleeced for customs (Brexit has destroyed the import market into RoI from GB as we now have to pay VAT & customs on imports), so don't be afraid to cast your net wider there.

Camber on individual front wheels is not adjustable, but you can centre it by loosening the subframe and shifting it left or right until both sides have equal camber.

Have you had a diagnostic scan done? If the system is not working it may have stored a fault code.

If your car has a rain sensor it may be closing the windows automatically if it detects rain. Not sure it's something I'd want to disable.

I'm a practicing mechanical engineer myself (working for a torque tool manufacturer right now), and have also taught engineering at third level. From an educator's perspective, one of the things that's always useful is to find guides like that one that break down the engineering/scientific principles in an accessible way. You're not the only person who is posting on this thread, and certainly not the only one who will ever read it, so it's a bit self-centered to assume the article was linked for your perusal alone. There's no difference in practice between torque + angle and "torque + angle to yield" in terms of the instruction to the operator or to a large degree how the fastener feels when you're tightening. VAG service manuals don't draw any distinction between TTY and standard fasteners either in terms of torque spec or instruction to replace or not. It may be the case in service documentation in other brands/fields, but not something I've ever seen in VAG or Porsche specs. As to engineering practice, I like to look deeper into these things and see where there is leeway to adjust from the specification in the service manual. Service documentation is written for technicians to get the job done repeatably and well, and as such is always a good starting point, and generally I will stick to the manual and advise others to do the same. That said, there are situations where you need to deviate for some reason, maybe lack of resources, or you need to get the job done with what you have to hand because time's tight, and understanding how/when it's ok to deviate from the manual is useful. In the case of this thread, it's useful to know why some bolts must be replaced, and why others could be reused with care, particularly for someone who comes along later and finds the thread, and maybe at some point in the past they've reused a bolt that should have been replaced, and knowing why helps/encourages them to go back and remedy it.

Norbar have some good background on torque as it applies to bolt tightening in their catalogue, starting at page 13: https://viewer.ipaper.io/sna-europe/norbar/norbar-2022-torque-wrench-catalogue/?page=13

Not always. It's also used where joint condition may be unreliable/unpredictable on standard bolts, e.g. rust, lubrication, dirt, etc.

Stretch bolts will be used where axial loads are low and space is tight. By tightening to the yield point the clamping force of the bolt is maximised and allows the use of a smaller fastener for a given clamping force e.g. M8 instead of M10. This is useful when space is tight. The downside is that the fastener is permanently stretched and on the downward side of the strength curve beyond yield. Reusing it will mean lower clamping force and a high chance of failure. As @sepulchravementioned, one other reason to replace bolts is due to corrosion or damage to the coating. Do not grease them if you plan to reuse them as the reduced friction will result in overtightening when the specified torque is applied. The remaining reason replacement is specified is for bolts with Stover lock nuts. These use reduced diameter or ovalled threads to lock them in place and will wear the bolt threads somewhat on removal. Reusing these nuts is a bad idea because they will be looser than new ones and may not stay in place. They can also result in overtightening because of the reduced friction that results from being stretched. Reusing the bolts is not recommended but you can probably get away with it if you use new nuts.

You don't say what spec/features your car has, which would help answer your questions. Amundsen satnav uses SD card for maps/updates while Columbus uses a DVD. If the car has Bluetooth then most phones will work fine, just make sure not to use rSAP/'Premium' mode if it's available on the car, use HFP instead.

It is there if you scroll down to the 2011 version: fuse 5 in the passenger compartment fuse panel.

It also makes the thief consider if there are easier options than yours. Most security is about making it awkward enough for the putative thief to nick your stuff that they decide to look for easier pickings.

A while back I cross-referenced the various rear suspension options and put the results in a pdf including all VAG part numbers (see attached link). If you're going to continue towing regularly, weight range 14 may be the best option.

Try pushing in the red button and then push the release lever down.

The OE towbar is made by Prof Svar, not Westphalia. Like @softscoopsaid, the key number is engraved on the lock. A dealer might be able to get you a replacement if you give them this number.

What condition are the earth points in?

To add to this, the intake is usually bigger than it needs to be anyway, so it's not going to be the limiting factor on stock or even moderately tuned engines. Plus the MAF and turbo will regulate the amount of air getting into the engine anyway so unless you remap, a bigger intake may not yield any improvement anyway.

Only if you wanted to find the nearest ditch in a hurry. Superb 2 is a good half tonne heavier than Golf 4 and needs the bigger, grippier tyres. 175/195 section tyres would not be fun, especially given the tendency for a lot of owners to go for the cheapest tyres they can find. 205/55/R16 is a type approved size for the Superb 2, see linked thread for more info.

If it's a spin on filter, hand tight is enough. I'll have to dig out the service manual to check otherwise.

It's 30 Nm. If it's a click type torque wrench get some practice with it on fasteners you're not worried about overtightening first. It's easy to click out and keep applying torque, especially on low torque settings like this one. Get a feel for the click and practice stopping as soon as it clicks.

OBD/EOBD standards apply to drivetrain only i.e. engine and transmission and are mandated as such by laws/standards. Any code reader advertising OBD/EOBD capability will probably only be able to read controllers covered by those standards. After that you're into manufacturer specific protocols/standards which are often not open, or not without the code reader manufacturer paying for a licence from the manufacturer. If you're looking for something similar to this one but that will actually work on your car, the Carista setup is not a bad option, but note that you will have to get the paid for version of the app for access to non-OBD controllers.

You could try swapping over the wiring harness and lock from your old door. It's also worth comparing the pinouts and wire colours for the lock connection to see if they're different.

Damage to the injectors is the main risk as they're not rated for the higher viscosity of biodiesel. Biodiesel and lubricating oil are not happy bedfellows either, so fuel dropping into the sump could do damage also.

Going by the warning lights, perhaps you should get the engine and steering fixed first. Apparently there are repair kits out there for the LCD panel, which would be much easier than a cluster swap.