chimaera

The bottom of the fuel gauge is actually the reserve level rather than empty. There's still around 8-10 l left at that point if you're feeling brave.

That icon is the symbol for average, perfectly normal for it to be there. As for figures, it's typical for the MFD to show about 15 % better economy than you're getting from brim-to-brim calculations. That's deliberate on VAG's part for reasons unknown. If you have documented your brim-to-brim calculations against MFD averages for each tank, and you have access to VCDS or similar, you can correct the MFD.

Shoulder wear on one side only is rarely, if ever, caused by the level of inflation in the tyre, and usually down to a suspension misalignment. If you're having to adjust the alignment very often and you're getting uneven tyre wear, you may have worn or damaged suspension components. It might be worth have a good mechanic look over the suspension to check for anything that might need replacing. As for recommended tyre pressures, you don't say what tyre size is fitted, so I'll give you the values from the service manual for the possible approved sizes for the 4x4 TDI (both TDI variants have the same recommended pressures). A summary of these values should be printed on a label inside the fuel filler flap but it may be incomplete. 205/55/R16 Half Load: F - 2.4 bar R - 2.4 bar Full Load: F - 2.6 bar R - 3.1 bar 205/55/R17 & 225/45/R17 Half Load: F - 2.1 bar R - 2.2 bar Full Load: F - 2.5 bar R - 3.1 bar 225/40/R18 Half Load: F - 2.2 bar R - 2.3 bar Full Load: F - 2.6 bar R - 3.1 bar You can vary up or down from these values if you find you're running into particular problems, but I'd suggest running the recommended values for a bit first. For anyone else reading, there is some variation in recommended pressures depending on what engine and driveline is fitted, so be wary of assuming this data applies to your car.

The OEM electrics would probably have been fine as all the control signals for the trailer lights come down to the controller via CANBUS rather than tapping off the rear light cluster.

Could be several things in the ABS/ESP system, you won't know until you get a fault scan done. Possibilities: ABS wheel speed sensor, yaw sensor, steering angle sensor, ABS controller malfunction, all stuff you won't notice in normal driving but it's the stuff that'll save your skin in an emergency. Get the car scanned and go from there.

That's towbar plus electrics plus fitting, pretty good value actually when you price up the components and the labour time to fit everything. The €300 figure was for the electrical kit on its own.

A while back I had an interesting chat with the local Indespension guy here. He has a fitter who buys universal kits from him regularly and fits them to a variety of cars. This fitter had a very expensive mistake on a Ford when he tapped off a particular wire in the vehicle. There had been a change in the wiring in the vehicle during product which meant that a wire that used to work fine for him instead resulted in the towing electrics blowing a few control modules the cost of which he had to eat, somewhere around €1500 in the end. Yup, and the alarm integration is nifty too.

I've installed the OE system on my car, it's about €300 last time I checked.

I will never understand why people mess around with bypass relays and scotchloks when Skoda make a control module designed to work with the car out of the box, no messing around. Yes it's more expensive but when you factor in the time taken to get the damn things working I doubt you've saved much. Plus, tapping off the wires to the lights can cause all sorts of shenanigans with the bulb out warning system in the car if you're not careful.

Not all torque+angle bolts are stretch bolts - it's a good way to guarantee a robust joint on bolts/nuts that may not be in perfect condition, and where rust/debris/oil/grease would affect the tension you get from a specified torque setting. Bolts which will get axial loads in service are never going to be stretch bolts as they would be extremely likely to fail under that kind of load. Stretch bolts tend to be used in situations where high clamping force is needed, and the space isn't there for a larger bolt to do the job. When I did the rear dampers on my car, I couldn't undo the nut that holds the top mount onto the stanchion, and the internal hex had stripped. Since I was scrapping it anyway, I got out the angle grinder and ground some flats on the stanchion so I could clamp it in the bench vice to open it up.

OSRAM Xenarc are good, going rate here is around €75 per bulb. Replace both - HID performance degrades over time, so the one that's not yet dead will probably still be weak and should be replaced.

+1 on this, and pictures would really help too.

If you have VCDS, you can do a fault scan for the control module: if it's an OE one or OE compatible it should be accessible at address 69 and will report any fault codes detected. You could also check fuses 8, 9, 43, 44, 45 as those are the ones used by the OE electrics. The OE type kit is all plug and play connectors that plug into the connectors provided in the vehicle. Control of the pins on the socket is via CANBUS messages sent to the towing controller which switches the appropriate pin(s) locally. If any pins are dead it would be due to a failed power supply to them within the module, which could be a blown fuse or a dead controller.

No, it's pretty straightforward. Howto at http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Trailer_Hitch_Retrofitting_(1K) @OP The wiring is tedious, but not difficult. All boot interior panels come off, and you lift off the side trims along the drivers' side at the sill to run the cables up to the dash. Most awkward bit up there is getting the CAN lines into the brown BCM connector. OEM towbar wiring kit comes with good instructions on how to do all of that stuff. Budget about a day to do the job, and I'd recommend purchasing the service manuals from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do for instructions on removing the trim intact.

You need two of these: 1ST 853 630 A AUL As regards facelift, the facelift was introduced in the second half of 2013 for the 2014 model year.

Do you know what the offset of those wheels is? The tyre size is ok though. More info on Superb 2 wheels and tyres at

Ok, going by this diagram, you have three exhaust temperature sensors: one before the turbo, and one either side of the DPF. There are two P/Ns given on each one - I'm guessing there's a superseded part or an equivalent spare part available. For your CAYC engine with right hand drive (PR-L0R) these are: Pre-Turbo is number 12 on the diagram: P/N is 03L 906 088 BK [alternative 8K0 973 702] Before DPF is number 10 on the diagram: P/N is 03L 906 088 DE [alternative 1J0 973 702 A] After DPF is number 15 on the diagram: P/N is 03G 906 088 AF [alternative 8K0 973 702 C] From what you mentioned above, you need the middle of those three (03L 906 088 DE). Please note that if you are searching for a part by part number that you need to search for the entire number including the letters at the end.

LEDs will not work well in a lamp designed for halogen bulbs; beam scatter will mean you lose a lot of the extra light while dazzling other road users. There's also the fact that fog lights are designed to provide light low down at just enough intensity to let you see the road. Overly bright bulbs with beam scatter will leave you looking into a wall of white in fog, and not enough useful light where you need it on the road. LEDs are just about ok for DRLs because they're there for daylight visibility rather than functional lighting at night. You might still fail an MOT with them but you're not too likely to cause trouble otherwise.

Your problem isn't with the reserve level though.

Probably a faulty sender. I'm not aware of any calibration procedures for the instruments on this platform.

Why waste money on a new controller when you don't yet know what the problem is? Have you done any of the wiring checks I suggested yet? There are plenty of ways for this to be broken without the controller being the problem, especially when the car has a towbar fitted. Diagnose the fault properly rather than throwing money at it blindly.

I don't think the buzzer is the issue based on what you've said. If it was just the buzzer you'd still have the display on the nav unit and the controller would show up on a diagnostic scan.

The OP is sounding increasingly out of their depth, the car is no better than it was when they started except now it has fuel sprayed around the engine compartment. Sometimes you've got to admit defeat and bring in professionals.

The common rail holds pressure at up to 2000 bar and releases it to the injectors at that pressure when required through the 4 hard lines that run from the rail to the injectors. If there's a leak there the chance of hypodermic injury is extremely high when the engine is running. Given that the OP has been messing around with changing injectors and is now leaking fuel, it would be irresponsible not to highlight the possibility of this happening. The only time the high pressure side of the injection system is safe is when the engine is switched off.