chimaera

Maybe also consider whether you'll get back the cost of refurbishment/replacement in the sale?

Given that the steering wheel controls connect through the clock spring assembly, I'd suspect something got messed up during that job. If the garage that did that work are not willing to stand by their work and look into it, you might need to find a better garage.

If the bonnet is not longer properly aligned then something is bent or broken: you need to find out what before you can repair it. As for the lights, I'm not sure if the brackets are replaceable; you may have to replace the headlamp unit. If you can post some photos of the damage we may be able to help you more.

I'd suggest finding the damaged part that's causing that and repairing or replacing it.

Are you looking to fit a dashcam or a reversing camera?

You won't get more airflow, the stock system is already more than adequate, even for a modified engine. As is so often the case with kits like these, they move the air intake into the hot engine bay where it will pull in hot air and reduce power. You can rationalise all you want, but all you'll end up with is less power and a hole in your wallet.

Your car already has a cold air intake and an air filter that's bigger than the car needs. Why spend money messing with it?

The most useful thing the VIN gets you is the build sheet showing all of the PR codes fitted.

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

If you have access to VCDS, the different switches can be checked in measuring blocks (can't remember exactly where offhand) - you should be able to see if the car is detecting the button presses.

Normal coolant temperature is 90 deg. The gauge is set up to read 90 deg at temperatures between 75 and 105. VAG's excuse is they didn't want drivers getting bothered because the needle might be moving around a bit.

An indicator light that goes out when the coolant is still below operating temperature is not ideal. Even the gauge in cars that have it doesn't show the true coolant temperature. It's been a bugbear with VAG cars for a very long time.

Maxidot dashboards have a coolant gauge instead of the light. They may also have the option to display oil temperature on the Maxidot display.

You can purchase the manuals as downloadable pdfs at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

If you're still on the original springs and dampers at that mileage, then it's likely all 4 dampers and at least the rear springs are shot and should be replaced. Sagging rear end is common on these cars as it wasn't unusual for them to get one of the softer setups from the factory. If you're changing everything anyway, it's worth looking to fit one of the stronger spring/damper combinations for the rear. I wrote up what I could find out about it here: In my case I ended up fitting MAD helper springs to correct rear end sag as I had already replaced the springs and dampers and the car was still sitting low. Weight range 6 is too soft to be any use on the Combi.

IIRC, the 12 V outlets in the car are fused at 15 A, meaning a maximum output of 180 W. Given the losses in the inverter you will be getting some amount less than this into anything you plug into it. If you want a larger inverter you will need to wire it directly to the battery via suitable control and protection devices. As others have pointed out, a fleece throw is safer (and cheaper) than this setup.

It's not just whether the roof can support the load, it's also its effect on vehicle stability in cornering. I carried the maximum allowed a good few times on my B5 Passat and it was noticeable in corners. Not a limit I'd be inclined to exceed.

I just checked the owner's manual. Max roof load including roof bars and roofbox is 75 kg. I've only ever used one on the Superb for carrying light but bulky items on holiday (buggy, travel cot, etc.). If you expect to use it regularly you may have bought the wrong car.

4F part number means it was designed for the C6 Audi A6, but not necessarily the RS or S versions.

Only in a very limited way. Direct editing of the k-number is not possible on these cars (I've checked) and the only other valid coding is for 235/45/R18. I wrote a bit about this here:

There have been a few - if you browse through the pictures thread in this section, there are definitely a few posts in there with people doing this. You will also find the ride is going to be very firm. The stock 40 profile tyres on the 18s are pretty firm as it is, and going another 12-13 mm lower in sidewall height is not going to improve things.

Your biggest problem will be maintaining the correct rolling radius on the larger diameter wheels so your odometer stays correct. ET would need to change due to the wider, lower profile tyre having a different scrub radius but it's non-trivial to work out.

I'm not sure about adaptation to the car for the door control module, others may be able to chime in on that, but it would probably need the coding to be changed/updated to match what's installed on the car. The original module shouldn't require any changes if it's just swapped back in without any other changes having been made on the module or car. Looking at http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/SUP/year/2014/drive_standart/768/hg_ug/972/subcategory/972035/part_id/0/lang/e it looks like the DL and DJ versions are concurrent part numbers for looms supporting different feature sets on the vehicle, and that the DL part fitted to your car is the most recent revision.

Stands to reason if you haven't fixed the cause.

There are actually a few switches inside the lock module, reporting the state of the different moving parts. One is for door open/shut, a second for locked/unlocked, and a third for whether deadlocking is active. I have pictures somewhere of one of these disassembled which shows the different switches. I'll dig them out later and add them here. In my experience it has been the solder joints that have failed rather than the switches. It's easy to check with a continuity tester.