chimaera

The capacity is 2.3 l. The correct oil part number for the oil is G 052 171 A2. It is 70W75, but from my own experience you are better off buying the VAG oil. It's not that expensive and it works better than bog standard aftermarket oils.

Some VAG models have had problems with the handbrake pawl not properly engaging on the lever resulting in the lever releasing and the car rolling away. It happened to my father's Octavia 3 when he stopped at the top of the driveway for a moment to get out and check something. - he heard a click and the car rolled down the driveway and into a wall across the road. Skoda dealer didn't want to know about it!

If you're getting lower back pain, it could be that the seat base is not supporting your legs enough. I used to get lower back pain in mine until I figured out that this was the problem - my lower back muscles were doing a lot of work supporting my legs and getting sore and tired. Tilting the base up at the front until it was fully supporting my thighs fixed it completely. As for a swap, I doubt seats from an A8 will work. Superb 3 might work as the platform it's on can trace its lineage back to the one under the Superb 2. Electrics and airbags may not work though. You may just have to buy the seat and see if it fits.

That's assuming no difference in efficiency due to the improved ignition quality of 98 vs 95 octane fuel, which is a bad assumption. Better ignition quality is going to play a part in reducing fuel consumption as well.

It's common for the Superb to lose 15-20 mm of ground clearance at the back due to overly weak springs being specified from the factory. Have a read of this thread first and take measurements of the car's current ride height (details in the OP): If you're able to get one of the rear wheels off, make a note of the coloured paint dots on the spring too as that will help identify what spec is currently fitted. You might find that a freshen up with new parts, and maybe stepping up a few weight ranges will do the trick.

The fuel standard specifies a maximum content, but that doesn't preclude a government from specifying a minimum as well.

A few things worth noting about ethanol in relation to its use as a petrol substitute: It has a higher octane rating than petrol (around 105-108) so it will ignite earlier in the combustion cycle It has a lower energy density than petrol (less energy for a given mass/volume of fuel) Higher ignition quality can be used to compensate for lower energy density if the engine is tune to suit; some modern engines can adjust ignition timing to match the fuel behaviour. Fuel lights earlier in the cycle so it gets more time to burn, and can burn more completely, releasing more of the fuel's energy. Higher ignition quality can also allow higher compression ratio and higher efficiency, but this has to be built in at the design stage. In blended fuels, the octane rating of the blend is the weighted average of the octane ratings of the individual components. If the UK is still using EN 228 as the standard for petrol, it does not specify a minimum octane rating for the individual components, only for the blend as delivered. In an ideal world, we might like the fuel manufacturers to use the ethanol mandate to increase the ignition quality of the fuel, but the reality is that they'll probably continue to make fuel with 95/97/99 octane rating as the market/regulations dictate, and take advantage of the higher ignition quality of ethanol to balance out the use of lower octane petrol in the blend. Depending on the blend, the potential is there for lower economy but it's difficult to quantify how much. On the rollout, as some posters have pointed out, it takes time to flush through remnants of old fuel from the tanks at a filling station (and at depots/refineries/etc.) so it is probable that there will be some kind of overlap period. I daresay if one were to dig around in the depths of the regulations it will specify how the overlap is to be handled. My guess would be that refineries/depots would be required to change over earlier in the run-up to the market introduction. Marking rules in EN 228 for pumps are that the pump must display the fuel being dispensed from that pump, so if it says E10, then it's likely E10 you'll get. Caveat emptor.

There is no KZX gearbox on the Superb, there is however a KXZ. All manual gearboxes used on the Superb 2 are type 02Q, so it is possible any gearbox of that type could fit the bellhousing and mounts,. But it's not that simple once you start looking at internal construction. Each engine gets a unique set of gear ratios and final drive ratios, plus separate assignment for 4x4 versions where they exist. Up to the model year of your car only two gearbox codes are assigned to the 170 TDI, the KXZ you have and the earlier KNY. Both have the same gear ratios and final drive ratios and should be interchangeable. I don't have a later revision of the gearbox service manual handy, so I can't say if there are later 'boxes with the same gearset. I think I have them downloaded on another PC - I'll check later.

I'd rather have something that works properly. If the xenon bulbs are old, your money would be better spent replacing them as they degrade over time and the light output drops.

Put back in the halogen bulbs it was designed to use and you'll have no problems. The beam pattern from LED bulbs will be completely wrong for a lamp designed to work with halogen bulbs anyway, no matter what the marketing says.

It sounds like you have bixenon headlamps. £45 is very cheap for a bulb replacement, especially if it includes labour. I replaced both bulbs in mine last winter with OSRAM Xenarc (like for like - I think these are the OE fitment) and the pair of bulbs alone was €150 (~£130). If it is the bulb that has failed, you should replace them as a pair too. Xenon bulbs degrade over time, and you will notice a big difference in light output between the two sides if you only replace one bulb. Did the mechanic you brought it to do a diagnostic scan on the headlamp controller? If the fault lies somewhere other than the bulb, there are likely to be fault codes stored in the controller or one of the slaves in the headlamps. If the control module needs to be replaced the headlamp has to be removed from the vehicle, which means removing the bumper. Make sure the mechanic runs a proper diagnostic to ensure that it is the controller that has failed before he goes to charge you for a replacement.

You haven't said what engine code, so it's hard to be specific, but it sounds like you're looking for the MAP sensor. It will be somewhere along the intake piping between the intercooler and turbo. It should look something like this:

Sounds like they screwed up something on the CANBUS during fitting. What electrical kit did they fit? Have you tried unplugging the towing controller to see if it resolves the problem?

A quick Google search throws up a few problems for you here: 1. RCD330+ is an MIB unit, which is not going to be compatible with the electrical architecture in your car 2. It's not available in a Skoda version AFAICT That said, there's a user (@pab567) who has worked out how to fit an MIB Amundsen in the Superb 2 which is of a similar generation to the Fabia 2 electrically and may be able to help you with this.

Return it to whoever you bought it from and get a refund?

Annoyingly, the build label on the Superbs only ever lists the front suspension PR codes, never the rear. On top of that, the description for the front PR codes is the same for all the variations (I've checked). As @Wino says, you'll need to get the rear PR codes either from a dealer, or by signing up to erWin (https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do). An hour's sub is cheap - what you're looking for is the 'Vehicle Specific Information'. You can download service manuals here too, the 24 h subscription might be better for this. This list will provide you with the original specification for the rear suspension and then you can decide what to do with your car. The weight range will be the most useful PR code (it'll start with 0Y). The G07 code tells us you're on the standard chassis, rather than sport or one of the two rough-road options. The PR code for this option is 1JA. One of my earlier posts in this thread links to a thread where I've summarised the various rear suspension options in a matrix. Once you know what the weight range originally specified for your car is, we can see what might work for you. Anything else at this point would be guesswork.

Paging @Rustynuts He might be able to (help you) fix your existing unit.

What do you mean by upgraded? The car came with AFS2 from the factory, which is about as good as it gets in headlights at the time. I'd start by having a closer look at this 'upgrade'. If you have VCDS, a fault scan of the BCM and AFS controllers would be a good idea too.

It could be a problem with the clutch or hub. I have had a similar issue which was due to the splines on the hub stripping. Is there any change in engine note if you cycle the aircon on/off? If not it's almost certainly an issue with the drive.

The figures are consistent though, and you can correct the calibration via an adaptation channel if you have VCDS or similar.

My Araldite fix lasted 10 minutes I guess trying to deal with outdoor temperatures around 28 C was too much for it.

I have a new hub ordered, I found a place in Italy that actually carries Zexel spares rather than aftermarket knock-offs, so I only need the Araldite to last a week or two. It's also one of the industrial grades of Araldite, not the consumer-grade sh!te and it's pretty strong stuff having used it at work a fair bit. Long term I'd expect fretting to do for it as you say, we've seen this ourselves at work, but it lasts longer than you might think.

Digging up an old thread, but it's probably the most comprehensive one here for this install. I've just finished mine and wanted to add a few observations/tips. I ordered the kit from Cars-Equipment and it seems they've improved it in the last few years: mine came with the power cable terminated in a fuse-box terminal, and the CAN lines were terminated with the standard pins for that connection, along with a y-terminal (see attached pics). I hooked the power up to slot 17 on the fuse panel at the end of the dash (it's not used on the Superb and has a permanent +12 V supply). I thought I was going to be fierce crafty by tapping the CAN lines into the CAN connection used for the towing harness I fitted a few years ago, but it turns out that the towing controller is on the Convenience CAN network while the RVC controller is on the Infotainment network. Because it was late and I wanted to get finished, I pulled the CAN lines to the back of the Columbus and Scotchlok'd them (terrible I know!). Some further research through the wiring diagrams highlighted that the Bluetooth module under the driver's seat is on the Infotainment network and uses the same type of pins as those supplied on the harness for the RVC, so I'll be going back in to tidy that up and reroute the CAN lines. When it came to cutting out the opening in the tailgate for the handle, I realised I had a better option than a Dremel and cutoff wheels (this was after watching @psycholist spend half an hour and 4 wheels cutting out his) - the multipurpose saw thinger in the pics below coupled with some metal cutting blades (readily available in hardware stores, I got mine in Screwfix). 5 minutes was all it took to cut out the opening in pic below: I used the half moon blade to do the long cut, and the narrower straight edged blade for the sides and a little notching out to make the handle fit. Some cleaning up was still needed with a file to take away rough edges. Once I had it cut and cleaned up, I masked off and painted it up, primer, paint, lacquer.

The thick plottens. I took a closer look at this this evening, on the assumption that the hub had failed the same way it did two years ago I was planning to stick it back together with some Araldite 2014-2 until I can get a replacement shipped to me. It was not the same failure though. The splines in the hub had stripped! It was a real pain to get off as there was nothing I could use to counterhold the compressor spindle while I undid the bolt. In the end I drilled into the hub enough to be able to grip on the shaft and got it out, to discover the stripped splines. Given the current high temperatures we're getting, I wanted to get it back running some bit. The compressor spindle turns quite freely, no indication that anything's up there. I used a trick we've sometimes used at work to make adapters to grip unusual objects with a ratchet: I put a layer of vegetable oil on the compressor spindle splines, and put some Araldite inside the hub on the splines, then reassembled the hub. The Araldite should mould itself to the shape of the splines on both sides when it sets, and the veg oil acts as a release agent for the Araldite later when I need to remove it and fit the replacement hub I've just ordered. I think I'll get it regassed then once it's back up and running fully.

Meyle stuff is awful, so that could be the problem. If the rut/pothole is very deep, the shock could also be topping out, and there's no bump stop there to soften it when it happens. It makes a nasty clunk when it happens.