chimaera

OP has a CR170, so 6 speed wet clutch. (You can find out what someone's model is on mobile if you browse to their profile)

I wonder if some lazy person disabled the sensors rather than figure out how to configure the car to shut them off when a trailer is hooked up. If you go to the diagnostics section here, there's a thread with a list of members with VCDS or similar tools who are willing to help other members. I'd suggest finding someone there who can scan your car so we can figure out what's going on.

The tandem pump is an intermediate fuel pump and has nothing to do with the braking system. All diesel engines have to have an electric or engine driven vacuum pump to provide vacuum for the brake servo and other stuff. Diesels don't generate enough vacuum in the intake manifold to be able to provide enough for the brakes. In the event of loss of vacuum the brakes will still work, you just won't have servo assistance.

It's McPherson strut, same as the Golf mk 5 it's based on. It has nothing to do with the camshaft. The problem with the 1.9 PD and DPF is that the engine was not originally designed with a DPF in mind, and it was a bit of a bodge to add it on later. The 2.0 TDIs were designed from the start to have a DPF and it's a better job all round.

So the official procedure is basically this but you need a special type of spring compressor - the ones with two screws you wind down to compress the spring won't fit. The lower wishbone gets in the way.

For Superb 2, the original model ran from model year 2008 to 2013 and the facelift ran for model years 2014 and 2015.

The Passat is shorter so the loads on the rear will be different compared to the Superb leading to different weight range designations.

If the ride height is below the lower limit the damper is probably knackered.

Worn dampers will reduce ride height too as the gas capsule in the damper is basically a spring too.

With the possible exception of the early 1.9/2.0 PD in the Mk 2, all Superb 2 diesels are Euro 5 with DPF. The DPF isn't known for failures unless you're consistently shutting down the engine during regen. Cars that live on the motorway can get 400-500,000 km out of a DPF. There's an app called VAG DPF that can help you keep track of the DPF status - you'll need a bluetooth OBD adapter so the car can talk to the phone. If you spot a regen coming up you can take the long way home so it can finish out. EGR valves can be a weak point: they gunk up over time and the changeover flap can get stuck in it. Some cars failed after the EA189 update because it opens the EGR wider and the flap would get pushed further into the gunk. The real problem with the EGR failing is the 6 hours of labour needed to change it, the part itself is relatively cheap. Regarding the EA189 update, there are people who think it's a bad thing. Tellingly there have been a number of owners whose cars were updated unknown to them and never noticed a difference. I can't say it made much difference to mine, maybe a bit punchier at low revs, and the DPF regens more frequently (not a big deal since I keep an eye on it with VAG DPF). My EGR valve started failing just outside the 2 year 'warranty' and Skoda Ireland paid 90 % of the repair cost with no argument once I showed them the service history. Other reports around here suggest Skoda have been pretty good to deal with any issues like that related to the update. . The 2.0 PD in the mk2 was I believe similarly plagued with the balance shaft module problems as it was in other VAG models. I'm not sure if specific engine codes are shared with the Octavia Mk2 FL, but the engine families certainly are as both cars are based on the same platform. Superb 2 has more cabin and boot space compared to Octavia 2. It probably also gets more toys in Elegance spec if that's something that matters to you. Being longer, it'll ride a bit better and have a little more high-speed stability, but probably not that you'd notice within the speed limits.

I'd check what weight range the car has as standard, it's pretty common for UK/IE cars to get weight range 6 which tends to be too soft, especially with a towbar fitted. Mine has weight range 6 fitted, and even with new springs/dampers to that spec it sat 14 mm too low at the back. At that stage the helper springs from MAD were better value than replacing everything again. They brought the rear back up to where it should be and it rides and handles fine. It's not much work to pop the rear wheel off and see what colour the paint marks on the spring are, and we can figure out a (probably) better option from there.

Does the car have both front and rear sensors, or rear only? If it has both, are both ends not working or just the rear? You've already ruled out the fuse, and there are no relays controlling the system. It's using the drivetrain CANBUS network, so I doubt the issue is there since a CANBUS failure would be throwing up errors in other areas of the car as well. One last easy thing to check is whether the button on the centre console activates the system. If you have access to VCDS or similar, a fault scan would be a good next step. If the system has detected any faults they'll show up there and can help with narrowing down the problem. After that it might require a look at the control unit to see if there are any issues with wiring to it, or damage to the unit itself. Annoyingly, it's buried behind the side panel in the boot which is an absolute pain in the arse to get to. Before that, get under the rear bumper and check the connectors to each of the sensors, and where they route into the car in case there's any damage done down there.

You should fit springs and dampers as a matched set. I've cross-referenced all of the rear combinations in the pdf attached to the OP in this thread. If you're not sure what rear setup you currently have, take off one of the rear wheels and see what paint marks are on the spring. Each spring has a unique paint code that we can cross-reference to the part numbers and figure out what you might need to go up to from there. For the front, like for like is probably fine as the front axle load doesn't vary nearly as much as the rear between laden and unladen. Again, taking a wheel off and noting the paint marks at the front will identify what's fitted and that's easy to cross-reference to a part number.

Is the display coming up on the radio/nav unit?

The stock cold air intake is already more than big enough so you won't gain power replacing it. Save the money for something useful.

+1 on this. It's also worth checking if the lenses are a bit scuffed or fogged. Polishing them back up will improve light output as well.

So there are two likely causes here. First is damaged wiring between the driver's door and the A-pillar - the driver's door has the master controller for the central locking system and if it can't communicate with another doorm you'll have problems locking/unlocking. You'll need to probe each wire end to end for continuity to see if this is the cause. Second is dry/cracked solder joints on the PCB inside the lock module on the door itself. Fix here is to remove the lock, pop out the PCB and reflow the solder joints.

Funnily, I find the fact that the DSG is handling gearchanging and clutch control for me useful in freeing up concentration to keep an eye on those sorts of drivers around town. I've also found that it doesn't like to be hurried from a standstill, it's happier being given half a second to raise the clutch and start rolling before I lean into the accelerator.

As much as I like the control of a manual when I'm in the mood for it, I love the comfort and convenience of the auto in my Superb in day-to-day driving.

The seats from a mk5 Golf should fit, so if you could track down a set from one of the sportier models you might be set. As ever though, confirm the fit before you buy.

I'm going by the service manual, which does not list any approved size below 16" for any model in any production year.

Get a continuity tester and check for continuity on each wire on the driver's door harness - IIRC the vehicle side connector is inside the footwell liner trim. As @superbdreamssaid, the wire can break inside the insulation and look ok from outside.

I've done this recently as part of an RVC install. Getting the plastic panel off at the window is a real pain. The only screw is the one holding the rubber pull strap, after that it's all those v-shaped trim clips. They're mounted on standoffs on the plastic as well, so it's difficult to get decent leverage on them. Perseverance and patience (and having some decent epoxy handy for repairs) is the order of the day. Not sure of the part number offhand, but a trawl through www.oemepc.com should get you sorted.

Does your car have start-stop?

Are you sure it's paint and not just oil residue? The rear main oil seals are known for being a bit weepy, and the oil will tend to stick to the gearbox casing. It looks a lot like black paint unless you're looking very carefully.