chimaera

If the car doesn't have start stop, then no but make sure you didn't fit a start-stop specific battery.

There was no factory fit towbar on the Superb, it was a dealer fit option. It could be supplied with factory wiring prep which had the wiring harness fitted as far as the boot. Skoda OE towbar is made by Prof Svar.

Going back to your original post, the cluster includes the immobiliser, so the cluster you swapped in will not be matched to the car and won't allow the engine to run. It will start and run for a few seconds before cutting out. I don't know what tools can be used to reset amd match the immobiliser. From what I know, only dealer tools or ODIS can do it because VAG require the tool to phone home for security reasons.

One thing to try is turn the steering fully to the left then fully to the right. This calibrates the steering angle sensor which is important for the stability control functions.

I'm guessing you're using the free version of Carista - those look like some kind of proprietary code made up by Carista themselves rather than the vehicle manufacturer codes you will need in order to go further.

This is about chucking in the additive on top of an alteady full tank to mitigate the petrol's lower lubricity. You won't get the mixing effect of fuel sloshing in, you're depending entirely on diffusion which will take a little time.

If it's left for a few hours it'll diffuse through the tank contents just fine, no stirring needed. Basic mass transfer.

The lack of lubricity introduced by the petrol is the problem here. The entire fuel system depends on the fuel for lubrication. Ideally you should drain the tank and refill with diesel but it's a bit of a pain since the filler neck has an anti siphon device. One option is to disconnect the fuel supply line from the tank at the fuel filter and route it into a container then manually supply 12 V to the lift pump in the tank to run the fuel out of it. If you don't want to go to that effort, you could get a bottle of Millers Diesel Power Ecomax and add several shots of it to the tank - leave it a few hours to mix through the fuel in the tank. It includes lubricity enhancers and would probably counteract the effect of the petrol, but I don't really know how much would be needed.

This has come up before I think, so I'd suggest doing a search here. I've had a quick look at the parts catalogue and it looks like there's no difference in part numbers between sedan and combi, but I'm not 100 % sure.

A naive reader could interpret what you wrote as them needing to visit a dealer, which would be unnecessary when there are good third party tools out there.

Don't get LEDs: the lamp is not designed to work with them and the beam pattern will be wrong. Put in some decent halogen bulbs and make sure the headlights are properly aimed.

The reset can be done with any VAG compatible diagnostic tool such as VCDS or VCP. I think even Carista or OBDEleven might be able to do it.

Not unless you turn on the ignition while they're disconnected. If you do that, you will need diagnostics to reset the warning.

Yes, and the headlamp unit is designed to capture and focus the light from a halogen filament bulb, not an LED array. LED bulbs are a great technology but only if used properly in light fixtures designed to work with them.

That won't change the fact that LEDs won't work correctly in a lamp designed for the light output characteristics of a halogen filament bulb. Beam pattern will be all over the place, and potentially dangerous for other road users.

Nothing that will work well in a lamp designed for a halogen bulb.

First post in this thread has specs for ride height and how to check it. It'll take you about 10 minutes max and it's worth doing before you go any further:

What condition are the springs and dampers in? Sagging rear is a likely culprit here.

As long as the diagnostic tool fully supports VAG diagnostic protocols, it should be able to do the job.

Your main problem with high ethanol content will be lower power and fuel economy. While ethanol has higher octane than petrol, it is less energy dense so you will get less power burning a given quantity of fuel. I'm not sure if there are any chemical compatibility issues with engine or fuel system components.

If it's a straight bush with no lips or anything, then you could press it from either side I think. Pick the side that's less likely to damage the arm when you're securing it in the press.

The new ones might give you a hint on how the old ones come out?

DOT 4 is fine. Brake fluid is supposed to be changed every 2 years anyway.

Just the response I expected from you. Engineering specs are as specific as they can be at the time they are set within the limits of knowledge at that time. They cannot accommodate future novel attempts to subvert them because that knowledge is not available at that time. This, combined with the need to accommodate technological progress is why standards are continuously updated. If you really are an engineer you should know this. Blind faith that manufacturers will adhere to standards in good faith is not a good idea.

While that's true to a point, don't forget that there are ways to meet minimum parameters on a spec which are not necessarily the most technically appropriate. The whole 'spirit of the law' vs 'letter of the law' concept. Material specs are a list of measurable parameters that the group setting the spec reckon will give a suitable material when met, based on what is technically known at the time. Inevitably someone will look for ways to meet the spec as cheaply as possible, consequences be damned. The result is not always good for the consumer. This is why standards and specs evolve, the need to account for a novel way to subvert the current spec. I tend to aim for products from known brands in the middle of the price range, where I can have some confidence that they're not trying to fleece me on price or with sub-standard products.