MikeTheThinker

Searching Google[tm] with "octavia mk2 bonnet lock release handle" brings up a number of allegedly valid options, including: From China https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255862602220 From Bury https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113847419605 From Czech https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/7e18235339b9-bonnet-lock-release-lever-european-union-14680.html (not sure if this is RHD or LHD) Later: found it. Item 28 HERE and HERE but note the rhd part number - 1J2 823 533 C OR 1J2 823 533 C B41 if you want it in satin black. Oh, and it's officially called a "grip for lid lock cable". So now you know

I took another look at 7zap just in case. No part number there but the diagram seems clearer so I beliefe #28 and #29 could be the same thing and #30 could be your phantom clips as there are 8 of them to the panel. 4A5853909 Parts Inn CLIPS-MUTTER CLIPS NU https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2007-419/8/863-863020/#30 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/4a585390901c-clip-nut-skoda-39594.html From a quick hunt via Mr Google[tm] it seems these clip nuts have a multitude of applications and are widely available across the VAG range. Here's some piccies ... https://www.oemvwshop.com/4a5853909-01c-speed-nut-satin-black-p288945/#gallery

After trawling through lots of possible catalogue pages for your bits/fasteners I came across the one linked below which shows the acoustic damping panels in the engine bay (2008 Octy, Europe). I believe the acoustic damping panel you seek is item 27, although be careful on part numbers as the first two of three listed are for LHD. There are also three possible fastener items shown - 28, 29 & 30, although I can't tell which are the ones you seek. Unfortunately there's no part number shown for #29. What I did note is the part number for the clips that hold the bonnet damping pad on so if these are the same as those for the firewall you have a part number. I've found skoda-parts.com good for confirming part numbers against items and also good for supply. Fingers crossed! https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/419/8/863/863020

I think you'll need the middle option of the three on the picture - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/419/9/927/927000

Sorry, can't help with that. My comment was based on general experience with pumps as they normally need to be able to create an hydraulic seal in order to pump. A quick Google[tm] search for help on this brought up: "Risk of damage to the high pressure pump through running dry If the high pressure pump is removed or replaced, the initial fuel filling of the high pressure pump must be carried out before the first engine start. For this purpose, connect the vehicle diagnosis, measurement and information system -VAS 505x- and carry out the targeted function „bleeding the fuel system“. During this function, the fuel pump is actuated for 180 seconds." https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/power_unit/1.6/55;_66;_77_kw_tdi_cr_engine/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/fuel_system_engine_side/removing_and_installing_the_high_pressure_pump/ https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/power_unit/2.0/81;_103;_125_kw_tdi_cr_engine_(2nd_generation)/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/fuel_system_engine_side/high_pressure_pump_summary_of_components/

Does the HPFP need to be primed before becoming functional?

Once the clips have been identified (best guess eyeball I would think, unless someone on here can offer direct experience) try www.skoda-parts.com (based in Czechia, excellent source for parts but carriage can be pricey) or www.aliexpress.com (China, not entirely helpful search engine but cheapest option as long as you don't mind waiting a few weeks for the post).

Glad you thought of that!

It looks like your car is a mk2 pre-facelift Octavia VRS, in which case you're looking for item 3 on HERE, but do check on the colour you need,

This is NOT your motor (I think it's actually a Porsche motor) but it should give you some ideas as to how oil circulates around an engine:

Neither I nor any other third party can make that decision for you. We've not seen or listened to the car so can only offer you opinions as to what might need looking at and possible ways of addressing the problem. I don't know why you chose to ignore the oil warning light for so long but you are now where you are; agonising over what could potentially be a dead motor. Time to take a deep breath and really look at where you are, rather than going on knee-jerk forays into one possible problem area after another. If you're looking for more info from the motor I'd take a good look at the oil - metal particles are an indicator of wear, check the magnetic sump plug (if fitted), have a look in the oil filter (chop it open and see what's been trapped in the folds) and - if you want to go further - pull the camshaft cover and visually inspect the cam lobes for wear. You could also look at the camchain similarly.

You've said that you ran it for a while showing an oil light. That warning light was telling you the engine's lubricant supply was riskily low, leading to times when there would be no lubricant available for the pump to circulate. That potentially affects every moving part in the engine, starting with the oil pump which relies on a good supply of oil to lubricate itself, then (depending on the oil routing in your motor) to the main bearing journals for the crankshaft, through the oilways in the crankshaft to the big end bearings and then draining down into the sump to be splashed up to the little ends on the gudgeon pins and to lubricate the cylinder walls so the pistons don't sieze. In parallel the oil should be forced at high pressure up to the camshaft to lubricate the camshaft journals, the cams, rockers and tappets, plus also (depending on whether you have a chain or belt drive to the camshaft) to the camchain, tensioner and idler wheel. The suggestion from your mechanic that the main bearings have gone puts the whole state of the motor in doubt and you would likely end up spending a lot of money getting the crankshaft reground and new main bearings only to find other parts of the motor were also terminally damaged. If it were my car I'd drop the motor and replace it with one from a recycler. Then, if I was bored enough, I would gradually strip and check the old motor on the bench to see just how far the damage had gotten. Either than or use it for a sea anchor. Just FYI there are several motors on offer on fleabay - here's one at 800 squid plus postage.

+1 for what he ^ said

Have you tried aliexpress.com? You may have to fight their search system for a bit but there's a lot of stuff like knobs available there.

I suggest taking a look at the parts catalogues on LLL Parts or skoda-parts.

You can get a cheap one from fleabay; around a tenner last time I looked but may have gone up a bit by now.

The 2l is a bit quicker, can be a bit smoother (depends on the tune), and is a bit less frugal (both of my 2l motors (BMM) average around 42 on long runs). I've managed to 'nurse' one of our stable of 1.9s (BXE) to 67mpg on a long 55mph motorway run but mid fifties is more the norm. BTW neither can beat our old 'taxi spec' 1.9tdi mk1 estate which still turns in mid sixties in general running in our son-in-laws hands.

Take a look at the selections of aftermarket covers on aliexpress. Delivery may take a few weeks but you'll save a fortune! https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-octavia-mk1-vrs-wheel-nut-covers.html

According to THIS parts diagram it appears the cabin carpets are the same but the boot carpets are different - much as one would expect.

Octavia mk2s are very particular about battery voltage/condition and interconnection quality. I suspect (based on my control systems background) that there would have been software changes made to later Octys to build in some resilience for power supply fluctuations but for this generation the cars are very sensitive to poor battery or intermittencies. What this may mean for you is that your intermittent fault states may be down to ageing connections between elements of your car's control systems. First step (I suggest) is to check that the relevant fuses and control modules are cleanly connected and there is no wiring damage or breaks. If it helps I have the Octy2 wiring diagrams from Mr Haynes manual. There are a number of forum members whose detailed experience far outweighs mine and hopefully one or more of them will step in.

You might do better to look at breakers and just swap the seat/s over.

Check the bulb in your reversing light; it may be one with a built-in sounder. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjv1faS3vf8AhWQP8AKHZr-DlkQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2FUniversal-Automotive-Reverse-Beeper-Buzzer%2Fdp%2FB07518KM1M&usg=AOvVaw3Axjgiujq36SRJJusiJtfH

I have a VCDS lead for older cars here on The Wirral but don't know enough yet about the detail of addressing your queries. However, if you can find out exactly what to tell VCDS we may be able to stumble through

According to the parts catalogue for a 2004MY Octy mk1 HERE there are several body types for saloon, combi, 4x4 but I can't tell the differences from the diagram.

There was someone on here doing this a little while back. I suggest a search through postings on the mk1 and projects fora to see what you can find.