MikeTheThinker

FYI my insurer (NFU) said they discount Cat N vehicles by 20%. Parkers valuations (not discounted for Cat N) for a 2009 L&K (couldn't find an LE) hatch are below: Your PARKERS valuation for: Skoda Octavia Hatchback 2.0 FSI Laurin + Klement 5d Tip Auto 2009/09 Private Price £1,175 - £1,875 Dealer Price £2,555 - £3,395

And a look here: https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel3.php?emulate=carbox&query=5809 https://rhinoukbootlinersltd.co.uk/skoda---extendable-two-part-boot-liner-5451-p.asp

Also worth a read through this thread:

Try carmats.co.uk. The one I've linked below looks like a rubberbacked carpet mat but at the bottom of the page there are references to an 'offroad' all 'rubber' version. Certainly worth an ask. https://carmats.co.uk/products/skoda-octavia-hatchback-2004-2008-boot-mat?variant=35876857905306&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAiA76-dBhByEiwAA0_s9S49L5HVBVdA6YsodrOveOsCj9sSHq1AWFMFGGxSuNO8qtJwXNtoYxoCpzsQAvD_BwE#productModelsFit

Some useful-looking links if you Google[tm] "octavia mk2 heater blower motor brushes"

I have heard it suggested that instead of one of the Bhuddist-inspired chants to accompany and promote meditation one could consider instead "Windows95, Windows95, Windows95 ...".

I suggest considering the below as an appropriate standby for future such extended imbibings ... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004487974376.html

I take it this will be a moment of subjective time, not of objective time - at least where floppy disks and Win98 are mentioned ... Hopefully you will be able to partake of some seasonal libations whilst you persevere?

You mention the car is a VRS but not which model year. The engine code is also relevant. Update: I see from the thread title it's a 2010, but the engine code is still relevant.

I believe you're looking for 4H0 973 703; there are a number listed on fleabay. To confirm you can see the original Skoda part HERE or an aftermarket part with attached leads HERE.

It's a while since I did this and a couple of cars back but as I recall I identified the earth lead from the sidelight (Brown, according to the diagram and commoned with the main beam - object #30 near the bottom of the diagram) and followed it back to an earthing point on the body (E2 IIRC). The point was OK but showed some signs of corrosion so I gave it and the connector a good scrub and reassembled with Vaseline. My thinking at the time was that the sidelight bulb being only a low current draw could be more susceptible to built-up resistance due to corrosion that would a headlamp drawing several amps - hence the intermittent problem on sidelight only. I didn't look for any empirical evidence (resistance etc.) so it remains "my theory, which is ..." BTW wiring diagrams compliments of Mr Haynes.

Is this for an Octy mk1 or a mk2? I've had occasional problems with an intermittent sidelight on a mk2 and the situation was definitely picked up by the controller, which then turned the offending unit off and showed a 'bulb out' on the dash. The situation then cleared after ignition cycle and came back later. In that specific instance I felt a poor earth was responsible and after some cleaning up all was well.

That looks a lot more workmanlike than the way I was told aboit it! I just might have to invest in one of those myself, although it looks as though it'll be two sets; one metric as yours and one imperial (for vintage motorbikes). Let's hope there's loads of dosh in my Xmas stocking

Is it the key or the wheel bolt that has become shredded? If the key chase your fleaby supplier; if the bolt, I'm told that using an old socket knocked down onto the offending bolt provides a way to remove it.

Obvious first question; what is the fault code?

I'd start with the loom, as you can do that without stripping the door. You'll have to cut the outer sleeve to get at the wires so take care to not cut anything you didn't intend to ... I'm fairly sure there are posts on the site about tackling this problem but the search function isn't behaving at the moment. You could try a Google[tm] search which usually brings up relevant Briskoda posts.

Classic cause of such is breakdown in the wiring in the harness that goes from the back of the front wing into the driver's door. Over time the insulation hardens and can then crack and split off, thus removing mechanical support from the conductors which may short or break.

And even longer to turn them off - even hours after the incident has cleared!

I appreciate the though regarding a takeaway but would have to agree with you regarding the lack of freshness on delivery If you have time when up maybe we could meet up? Good selection of acceptable breakfasts on The Wirral; I've tested quite a few

Perhaps, my Lady Elanore, we should acknowledge your rise in the aristocracy and refer to your good self in future times as "your majesty, The Bean Queen"?

Does she do takeaway?

I don't know this to be the case but as your Fabi is a mk1 it will likely have 5x100mm wheel studs, whereas from a quick bit of Googling[tm] I believe the Atlanta wheels are 5x112mm. If this is the case then you would need an adapter plate of some sort between the two stud standards which may itself introduce issues of wheel offsets. I suggest you enquire very carefully as to any proposed solution to ensure it doesn't introduce more problems that it solves, Update: I found a descriptive listing for some Atlanta wheels on fleabay which shows then as 5x100mm so my comments above may be moot, although as I read your description above it may still be true. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173859782033 BTW the ebay seller above has included contact info right at the bottom of their listing so it might be worth a phone call to ask about your problem and see if they have any solution to offer.

You know, there's something vaguely unsettling about a man being that attached to his stool ... I just wish I could say the same about me ...

Bored, Dear?

I hereby dub thee "Number Five".