Frenchtone

Nope, no visible numbers just a white label with GF-AST I can only assume it is an aftermarket job -- I have had the car 8 years, cannot remember throw an early original away, I have had a repeat problem with copper tracks failing on the pcb suggesting an intermittent fault, perhaps mouse damage, who knows! I think any springyness in my switch is provided by the copper wipers in the switch! Sorry therefore I cannot help.. I will if time allows have a look at a Golf switch, that is a secondhand one bought for about £10, it does need the facia surround changing as there is a little off centre variance.

Ok, some photos of the back Remove back casing, then pcb held on by small plastic clips , a gentle push with something small should make them clear the mounting holes, the pcb then just eases out. There are then the contactors, one easily removes, the large one which moves has a plunger underneath, didn't remove that, but retracting the plunger should enable its removal, then you should have access to the spindle etc. Although I suppose a spray with wd or similar might free up your problem. Hope this helps

Haven't forgotten this, I located my spare, repaired switch yesterday, I''ll pull it apart later and report back!

As a wild thought, could this problem be battery related? I have had the battery on slow charge overnight, I will check voltages later, it's lashing it down here currently(sorry about that!)I have also found a G 247 sensor sort of locally for around 35€, a trip to collect might highlight if the battery recharge has sorted the problem that trip is also about 30 miles!

excellent! had my yeti with the amundsen + for 8 yrs now, i only discovered how to find some french addresses early last year! Egg on face time for me i think!

Many thanks for that, yes it has been changed about 2 years ago, just before the French MOT equivalent, and, I did in fact open up the fuel filter earlier this year, it all looked / seemed pristine, will have another look over the weekend though. So why would the engine run if the pump was pulling cr*p up? -- Yes I realise the crud could drop away if the engine stopped!

VCDS report for engine! Friday,04,February,2022,14:12:59:34756 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64 VCDS Version: 21.3.0.0 (x64) Data version: 20210226 DS325.0 www.Ross-Tech.com VIN: TMBMD75LXD6090262 License Plate: DW..... Mileage: 121340km-75397mi Repair Order: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-018-CFF.clb Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 018 QL HW: 03L 907 309 AG Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC H25 4785 Software Coding: 00190012042700080000 Work Shop Code: WSC 33361 790 00056 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906018QL 003004 (SK35) ROD: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906018QJ.rod VCID: 042966D98F9CDBABE7-8050 1 Fault Found: 5242 - Fuel Pressure Sensor (G247) P0191 00 [101] - Implausible Signal Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 121349 km Date: 2022.02.03 Time: 16:41:18 Engine RPM: 0.00 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 79 °C Intake air temperature: 26 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 12.560 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine status: COENG_FINISH Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 5 Have now run vcds --- i think the only relevant section is as above, all the rest(lots of 'em) relate to the flat battery situation! So the fuel pressure sensor is fingered, anyone got a part no. or is it a standard piece? I presume it just needs replacing! Below is another photo, in which centre stage is the pressure sensor I think, can you confirm please Langers?

OkNow had a look, and a photo, a bit different to the Langer's link, my engine is a CFHC unit. The engine started first turn this morning rolling at 500rpm, no reaction to the accelerator pedal, Switched off and on again this time up to 900-1000rpm and a reaction to thhe accel... pedal, any suggestions please? I will VCDS it this afternoon and post the readout!

^ maps for the amundsen+ are updated by preprepared sd cards they are not downloadable! I had probs with french names, are there any accents etc as per french names/ If so you can call up the accents, here a la frog there are acute, grave etc over the e, just continue to press the letter and a list of accents appears to allow a choice, push the accent and try continuing --- I hope this makes sense! And then your name may appear in lists controlled by the scrolling block on the lhs of the screen.

Starting to have probs restarting the beast when the engine is hot, it sort of fires up and then dies, when the engine has cooled it starts ok and is then fine.

thanks for that, i'll look tomorrow!!

This might be a stupid question, but are you choosing spain as the country? hang on a mo whilst i go and hide myself!!! 😄

ok, thanks for that, where would i find the fuel pressure sensor G247?

i'll look later!

Ok, had a flat battery yesterday, recharged overnight, looked at Carista and there is a fault found, one of many but the others allied to the battery prob. fault PO191 fuel rail sensor'A' circuit range / performance. What does it mean? I am not currently at home so difficult to interpret! Greatful for any info!

Different circumstance I realise, as I used to live both sides of the channel. I wired the UK nearside light in, but via a simple 2 way switch thus enabling use of the relevant off side light dependant on which side of the channel I was. Never had a problem with either the MOT or now Controlle Technique!

You need to accept that insurance company requirements here in france are markedly different to those within the uk, I have queried lots of things with my french office here to be told ok that works!

you can pick a new(recycled) switch up for £15 - £ 20 fleabay

The pcbs are at the back, you need either a small allen key or a small torx, the rear then just lifts off to reveal the boards more key work to remove them and the you shou be able to see the drive shaft etc may then a squirt of wd40. I have had mine open as i suffered burned out copper tracks on the board, used very fine insulated wire to jump the leads, it worked fine. You can buy a replacement on ebay not the cheap chinese jobs a second hand yeti/octavia gof passat etc some ar not white lighted but red. I have a red one, as a spare, it is out of sight when night driving!! Good luck

Switch off, gentle turn on pushing and it releases the holding pins, gently pull out, nothing else to do apart from dismount the plug, just a pull as I recall!!

^ ^ ^ Well done that man!! ;-D

no could have been info by 'the plumber'

There was also a suggestion of placing the spare in a vertical position strapped to one side of the boot space, a scottish guy did that mod, again a long time ago, in fact I bought the strappings off him when he sold on the yeti

I vaguely recall, a long time ago there was a yeti for the Chinese market which had the spare mounted on the rear door externally. It might of course have been a mock-up!(or a c**k up)

What if the wheel is upside down, I can't remember the format?