MarkyG82

A remap offers a much nicer drive that is well within the realms of stock wheels/tyres/brakes. It's the improvement in drivability that makes it better. Peak figures are not the game. A chip will manipulate the signals to get more power but the increase across the rev range will be not that much more than stock and could even make it worse to drive. As for warranty. This has been discussed so much that I'll just say one thing. A dealer will still be able to tell if a box has been on the car.

I lowered my 2.0tdi on a beam backend. Was a good improvement if you can cope with the added stiffness. I also had upgraded shocks which added to the stiffness but increased the control massively. Not a cheap route though. Springs only is much better solution for those on a budget. Could be worth waiting till you need to change a shock or 2. Remap on the 2.0tdi is much much better than a chip. Search the forum for details.

That'll be a twin dry clutch then. Mention it to your colleague and see what his response is.

If genuinely getting spark plugs and you can save money by not getting breakdown cover that you otherwise would have paid for then it could well be an ok price. I'd question the 2 years service and expect it to be 2 services.

Wrong way round. Lower offset means it's further out by 5mm. No issues with fitment. Only problem would be a slight imbalance in handling. You may not notice it. Actually thinking about it you would probably notice a bigger difference with a different tyre.

You could treat it like many other parts of the car that need maintenance: hold out till it either you or it breaks. Issue being that a cam belt failure can easily write an engine off. Personally I would be more cautious and get it replaced at a reasonable time period (5 years or soon after* depending on mileage). *This can be defined as 6/7 years or @robs12's approach. Both are valid. depends how deep your pockets are. Shallow? Wait and have it checked periodically. Got spare cash for maintenance? Get it done at 5/6/7 years. Loaded? Wait till it goes boom and get another car!

Nobody has actually answered the question. For what it's worth I've not heard of a 1.4 belt failure. Failures are relatively rare these days due to improvements in manufacturing and materials. @Suuntobob can you elaborate a bit on why you'd like to know?

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So I did it this morning and it changed back to E mode a short while after letting off. A bit like when it changes back to D after using the paddles.

The superb is also mqb so yes.

Where are you? If local to me you are welcome to try them.

Could be a wider rim. Vrs size is 7.5 wide I think. The 18s on the superb are often 8 inches wide also with a lower offset to compensate (44 compared to 51 on the Octavia). Bolt pattern and center bore should be fine though.

That's a dq400 I think. It's a derivative of dq250 so wet clutch 6sp. It also has an extra clutch for the electric motor hence the change in model number.

Can you hit mode button and switch out and back to E mode? I'll give it a go in my GTE in the morning if I remember.

No. There are no 6 speed dry boxes but there are 7 speed boxes both wet and dry. Read roots message above for engines with each box type. Dq200 is dry and fitted to lower torque cars and have 7 forward gears. All others are wet regardless of gear number. Dry box has no official service recommended but can be done. Dq250 is 40k miles. Some other boxes (7sp wet?) Are 80k but won't hurt doing it sooner.

Could be 2 things: 1) The engine is under less load so not producing as much boost. 2) They have done it on purpose to make you think you are getting more boost in sport mode.

This is more likely due to throttle pedal mapping and not engine mapping.

@Phil-Eyou imply that the iV has dry clutch 7 speed. Not so. The box is a derivative of dq250 with 6 speed and wet clutch.

That's a lovely idea but never going to happen. Skoda don't do things that the others in the VAG arena haven't or aren't doing. VW didn't do a mk8 e-golf so we won't be getting a bev Octavia or superb. Maybe VW can think of using the extra boot space of the larger vehicles to add battery capacity to the plug ins. Bring the real world range to 50 miles and they would sell a ton!

I think we can all agree that there are far to many variables to say what will last or not. Maybe one of the biggest factors is how the tyres are used. Be that driving style/use or pressure maintenance. Abuse a tyre by either pushing too hard or out of the recommended pressure range and you'll end up with worn rubber.

Granted I went on 0mm as the end point. Not great advice. My excuse is it's my birthday and I am now 1pt and half a bottle of (very nice) wine down. Cake and rum still to go. I'll recalculate and pull figures out of the hat later.

Not entirely sure on the exact parts but a replacement ECU from a company like haltech should work. You need someone who knows what they are doing to program it though. The whole thing wouldn't be cheap. Prices have probably gone up since I looked which was 4-5 years ago.

Ok yeah there are far too many variables to consider. I was merely expressing my experience and that of some tyre reviews. The 8mm was also an assumption as it's a rough figure where many tyres start. Going on a 6.5mm starting depth and an average 4mm remaining, the overall life could be over 23k miles. As for the life of tyres compared to brand/cost, I have found that cheaper tyres need to use softer compounds to achieve the same levels of grip afforded by a more premium model. This ends with them wearing quicker. Again this is my experience and only some of the evidence I use when selecting tyres.

Let's be generous and day they started with 8mm. Makes it about 16k miles total. That's not great but also not that bad either. Colleague of mine used to run toyos (as that's what he liked) on his fast Mondeo and thought 8k miles was normal. I'd expect cheaper tyres to get 15-20k and premium to get to 25k+. Michelin should be one of the best and my cross climates have done about 8k and at a guess are about 30% worn. Need to measure properly though.

Out of those 2 I'd be looking at the fwd one. The technology in either car should be the same as far as features. The l&k model may have a few more gadgets but the exec spec is really good anyway. 23k miles in 2 years Vs 29k in 6? Younger car has definitely been driven properly. Older car car may have been a long trip tool only but it's not worth the risk in my opinion.