MarkyG82

You should be able to set the charge current to a suitable level for a 3pin plug. I'd suggest 10A at most provided you have a good supply with little else on it. As for battery condition while slow charging. That's utter tosh and the guy needs to double check what he's telling you. Maybe he was mixed up and meant the socket? @stephenlumley is there not a schedule in the car for that? I have a timer function on my wall box but never used it as I have it set in the car. Skoda could be slightly different to VW but the timer function should be standard on the platform.

I have one built into a rear view mirror. It gives you an extra wide mirror internally while having a camera built in. Search interwebs for mirror dash should show you what I mean.

@aerofurb I am a mechanical engineer so share your interest in this sort of thing. You are right that there is very little information available in how or what is happening. I guess you have to trust that it's not applying any force into the gearbox when in D/B. In my experience of driving it of nearly a year I am yet to see or feel any reason to believe otherwise. There is no tug or dip like you get when doing a traditional hill start on a manual handbrake. What you do get is the release when the EHB goes on and releases the main brakes. Can we know why you feel you need to not use the handbrake when parking up if you use it daily?

Koni special actives with stock springs (same as non-sportline superb). Actually thinking about it don't all superb iV's has DCC? That would put them 10mm lower than the standard Passat GTE. The GTE advance has DCC. I have the standard one.

@Gabrielem I can get one. Just bear in mind it's a Passat GTE not a superb iV.

I think you are missing the point of what the car is doing. It knows you are stationary so doesn't apply any drive, be that from the ICE or the electric motor. If it does in fact creep when you release the EHB, the car is probably assuming that you want to move so applies some drive. I appreciate you don't want to give the car any more control than is necessary but you don't have actual control over the brakes when applying or releasing the EHB. You are only pressing a button and sending a command to tell the car to do something. How is that different to leaving autohold active. The only positive I can see is your garage storage. I get that. However, unless you leave your car for quite some time without using it the benefit is very minimal. And if that was the case maybe the iV isn't a suitable car for your use case? It lends itself to regular use being a EV for local journeys.

Aside from chucking in a quick handbrake in traffic I see there being no reason not to use autohold on this platform. You come to a stop with the brake, let your foot off the pedal and the car stays put. Traction system knows you are stationary so no need for it to put force into the gearbox, ie no creep. Actually that last bit should be the same if you have any vehicle with stop start and dsg.

What about if you keep your foot on the brake and activate the EHB? Does that keep the lights on?

The brake light issue is an odd one. I don't think it would take much coding (at the factory) to set it to turn off the brake lights when autohold engages. I imagine being part of the safety setup you would have a hard time accessing the coding with vcds.

I've had the shocks (koni special actives) on for a few weeks and now had a week with a whiteline rear roll bar. One thing I must point out is the top of the shocks are quite long. By top I mean the body where the shaft comes out. Because of this you need to cut the bump stops to get any meaningful travel from them to get the benefit of the fancy valving. I don't think I will be lowering the car at least with these shocks fitted. Bilstein b6 or shock shocks should fair up much better with lowering springs. The rear roll bar is great. Gives a nice support to lean on in corners but you don't know it's there when driving straight or slow. I have it on the soft setting and when I get a chance I'll put it in the hard setting (new end links while I'm there). I think the hard setting will be more apparent with small direction changes. I like a tight back end (ooer) and the soft setting is only maybe 30% better than stock. I've also fitted thicker top pads on the rear springs to bring the rear more level with the front. This has helped to bring the shocks out of the bump stops but I still need to check if the rears need cutting down. Visually the car is more level though.

As long as the spur is off a ring you should be fine. If it's a spur already I would a get dedicated supply put in. The issue being that many sockets day they are rated for 10 or 13A but not at a constant for hours on end like you would need for a car charger.

Or a new one!

I bought my car used. Yes it was probably 10-15% more expensive than the ice equivalent but is more likely to hold value given the current appetite for plug in cars and I intend on keeping it for quite some time. The majority of people who are currently using EVs or PHEVs charge at home. Not putting fuel in is not a one off. That's one of the other benefits. 90% of the time you don't have to worry about running out. You go to your car, unplug it and do some driving. None of this going to a specially designed location to stick a hose in the side of the car to squirt flammable smelly liquid in. The issues you quote are not that clear cut.

Yep. Google VAG radio keys.

You also get to experience a lot of the benefits. Cheap running, EV torque, not running out of fuel in a shortage.

@ERIK99 I think what encouraged me to respond initially was that you seem to be coming at it from an EV point of view and concentrating on the public charging network. A PHEV isn't really the car to be testing that setup. Your initial review feels very negative that's all. Agree that EVs are still very expensive for the size/mileage. I was looking at the Enyaq which would have suited me fine but ended up spending half the cost on a Passat GTE which is giving me 85% of the benefits for much less outlay in a package that I was more familiar with.

@Jonnoh79 How many miles has it done? Could well be worth getting the pump and cambelt done as a precaution unless you are on low miles. If indeed it is low miles then a proper look by a dealer should turn up a fault and an offer of paying some of the bill as you are only just out of warranty.

@ERIK99 I know you say you like it and chose it for the right reasons but that doesn't come across in your review. Just sounds like you should have bought an EV. I think you are expecting too much from the charging capability of the car. For me the benefits are EV features like preheating and EV (less expensive) driving. Plus then you can chuck in some Dino juice (if you can find it) and drive further afield. When I got home from work yesterday I had done 955 miles on the current fill and still had half a tank. Embrace the benefits, not criticise the downfalls.

Rolling roads have an error built in too. 168 sounds very optimistic but not out of the question. We have a 1.5 in a seat arona and it's ok. It seems the 1.4 is a much better engine to drive and has a better low end. Part of me thinks we should have gone for the 1.0 115bhp engine. Tested the 85 bhp version and it was plenty for town work.

Also, part of the extra height on the Octavia scout is in the tyres. It's enough of a difference that you should probably get the speed recalibrated.

Sounds like a good reason to get the petrol. I personally don't think 5 year old 45k diesel will cope well with your driving profile. You may get lucky but without knowing how it's been driven.....more likely to have been short journeys than not.

Was going to say it's low mileage on a diesel for the age but the above post puts that to bed. Like mentioned check the dpf state. Also add that 15k should be fine for either. It's the driving profile and current state that should decide. Assuming the specs are identical?

If you are happy with the result then its a good result. Managed to fit my rear roll bar this morning. Fitted thicker top pads on the springs while there too. Only a quick spin round the block so far but it's a good improvement. Comfort is not affected but the back end just feels more confident.

If that's the case then a pedal box will suit you well. If you aren't familiar then search in here or Google and you'll find plenty good stuff.

The wheel I had in my Octavia was a fabia item. I think as long as the buttons match up (or swap them over?) it should be fine. The wheel I got was listed separately for superb, fabia, octavia, yeti.