MarkyG82

If it's under light throttle it could just be the way it's coded. Does it do it under heavier acceleration?

Do you mean pausing and not gaining revs before but changes or it keep revving higher and changes near the red line?

30k per year should provide no issues with dpf other than needing it replaced eventually. Could easily be over 250k before replacing in theory. As above. A remap should provide some nice pull.

@Carlstonstrikes again!

Don't think so. Easiest way is to use either B mode or tap down shift paddle to temporarily increase regen. I've searched loads for vcds mods etc and there isn't anything.

Is the eibach prokit not 30-35mm? On standard height of course so 15-20mm on sportline. Eibach sport springs are 50mm often so 35mm drop on sportline height. H&R 40mm on stock? Just seen you are talking cm's and not inches. if wanting sportline height from stock then you need sportline springs probably. Or full coilovers with big adjustment range.

Like all these things it depends by how much you go. <15mm you would be hard pressed yo notice the difference in both handling and wear to the components. >25mm and you might start to notice dynamic changes (bump steer, etc). Comparing with wheels you tend to find that as the offset go down (further out) the rims get wider so the support under the car is not lost as much. You can get away with quite a lot of poke if going for wider rims. For example, a rim that is 1inch wider with 12mm (1/2 inch...ish) lower offset will have the inner edge of the tyre at the same point but the outer edge a full inch further out. 25mm spacers will give the same poke but have the potential to cause premature wear. But then narrower wheels/tyres can be lighter.

Only way is dpf out and clean or replace. Just be double sure that's the issue. Likely from your description though.

MOT fail if discovered. Not worth it for the marginal gain IMO.

Eibach also do a sportline spring that is more extreme still. 50mm drop usually.

49 is standard fit for Octavia 17s. The Dorado's are Octavia wheels so don't see any issue. Should bolt straight on provided they are original parts and not copies. If they are original and got over your brakes I'd say they will serve you well. 17 tyres are a lot(!!) cheaper too so any expense will be gained back the first time you need new rubber.

Can you try to rewrite that. A touch hard to read. Also try changing the title to something more relevant than your forum name.

Where about in Berkshire are you. I have a set of seat 18s (dame spec as vrs 18s) with nearly new tyres fitted that you are welcome to try out. I'm in Basingstoke. Also welcome to make me an offer but looks like you'll be wanting OEM look. Tyres fitted are Goodyear efficient grip performance for reference. Kind of one step down from eagle f1 (...ish).

Native wireless android auto needs any phone on Android 11 or a Google or Samsung phone on Android 10. I'm sure there are a few outliers (Nokia, OnePlus, etc) but these are the official words from Google.

I think they are hoping to fulfill orders up to July by the end of September so they are 2-3 months behind. I'm sure I saw another device that did carplay too but it was double the price and still on a crowdfunding site. For what it's worth, out of 3 things I have "bought" on crowdfunding sites, I have received 2 and got a refund for the 3rd. So I would have no issues going in on another item.

So I ordered a rear bar. Turns out I selected the Golf R bar that fits to the 272/280 (plus other awd models). I assuming it wont fit my fwd setup? Yes I will climb under the car and compare the bars but thought I check here first. Main difference I can tell is the awd version has an extra bend about 2/3's along to clear something. Exhaust maybe? I can see me returning it for a GTI bar.

18x7.5 et 51 with 225/40/18 and 20mm spacer was just about flush. So effective et of 31. Compared to 19x8.5 et 40 with 235/35/19 the 19s are 3.7mm further out which should be ok. They are also 21.7mm closer to the strut, or 1.7mm without the spacer on the old wheel so definitely no issue there. The 9.5 et45 would struggle in both directions I think.

Probably because most people use the 40k servicing. It certainly does seem prudent to get done at 4yrs regardless of mileage. Mine has just hit 40k in less than 4yrs so it's going in soon for the work. Should have been done the other week but the garage slotted me in at the last minute and ran out of time.

Belt materials tend to age more than wear. Oils tend not to age in the same way so it's more common for any oil changes to be usage rated. Although I do contradict my statement above and get my engine oil changed anually.

So that day 4yrs/40k for dsg. Pretty sure it's the 40k.

Dsg service is normally 40k is it not? Newer boxes may be different but I thought the mileage was longer not shorter. Who told you the dsg was due?

So had some time in the car with the new shocks including a longish trip yesterday (1hr each way) with a mix of town, country and cruise driving. Overall the change is better in every aspect. I need to remove the rubber assisters from the rear as that "patch" is being shown up by the better damping. I will drive it for a little bit without but very likely to fit an upgraded rear roll bar as a proper upgrade. With the way these shocks work they need the travel in the stroke to react. The rubber blocks are limiting the springs somewhat at the rear. Turn in is good but the overall ride is hampered as a result. Better roll control is the way forward. Will report back again once these changes have been made. Mighty car mods discount on whiteline at the mo. Rude not to. Rear roll bar going in sooner than I originally thought.

Anyone? There were quite a few members fitting H&R or Eibach kits in the last year or so. Did the leftovers all get sold on already?

A garage would probably quote 3-4hrs labour. Multiply that by the standard £50-80/hr gives a range of £150-320. I think I paid £150-180 last time. Comfort between the models is a strange one. Some find the multi link of the vrs more comfy as the rear suspension on the lower power models it's torsion beam. Google it if you don't know what that is. But the lower models also have smaller wheels (more rubber) so can ride smoother. That can be altered with a change of tyres though. For your needs I'd say either is a good fit for different reasons. Best thing to do is come up with what toys you want and find any model that fits rather than sticking with vrs or not. Elegance is a good starting point for cars of that age. Name changed to sel down the line.

Springs £130-200 depending on where you can find stock and what you want. On the non-vrs models I can recommend the eibach prokit which should drop in the region of 30mm. Did it on my 2.0tdi elegance (dsg) with bilstein b6 and it was perfectly fine if a little firm for slow speed family dutys. Higher speeds and it's really comfy. The vrs comes 15mm lower than standard so the drop listed for those will have to take that from the figures. So 15mm drop on a vrs with the prokit. A mate has a vrs TDI and the running costs are comparable with the 2.0 elegance. Service cost is the same. Biggest difference is the rear suspension is multilink so should be a smoother ride and handle better. If like for like the vrs comes in at similar prices to the elegance then don't rule them out. Biggest difference will be insurance but it's easy enough to find out how that will go. Just find a number plate of one that fits your needs and chuck both into an online calculator with all other stuff being the same. Reliability wise I really don't think there is anything in it between the 150hp or 184hp.