MarkyG82

You're taking too much off to start with. Vrs is 15mm lower than standard. Prokit is 35mm on standard. So 20mm on vrs. Sportline is 50mm on standard. So 35mm on vrs. As above, h&r should be 40mm on standard. So 25mm on vrs.

I use a 12 extension. Has a load of sockets and USBs with an on/off button on top. Just need to remember to turn it on/off when required. Gives the flexibility to keep it on I a carpark but off when parked at home/work.

I'm not disagreeing with what your saying root. It never pulled in D while stationary in my old car (2.0tdi dsg Octavia) but my GTE definitely puts strain through the box if the ice is running with foot on brake or the finger brake pulled. I can feel it release when coming out of D.

You are correct about the lights. However, if the engine is running (with the VAG PHEVs at least, which is what this thread is asking about) it puts s load on the gearbox. Enough that I would prefer to place in N or P when stopped. Of course when the engine is not running this is not a problem. At least not as far as I know. Will check tomorrow if I remember. Another thing I noticed is when on autohold and placing in N the brakes release so make sure you put your foot on the pedal or engage handbrake.

Might need to undo both sides at the same time to get the clearance needed to get the spring out.

Racing line remap is probably the most accessible way to do that. I have it on my GTE and most happy with it. Only thing that would make it better is stopping the engine cutting out in GTE mode. Other maps have that feature but are harder to find someone to load it.

I had some rubber spring assisters fitted for a while to help with load carrying while clearing out my dad's house. Really did help and if those air bags do a similar thing but in a more dignified way then that would be my suggestion. The issue with just raising the suspension on spacers is that you will not gain any travel as the spring will still sag the same as before. The only way is to increase the spring rate with new springs or inserts. If you are generally happy with the ride height then how about some lowering springs but with spacers to lift the car back to stock height? Would give you the support but keeping the shocks at a good point in their travel.

Thanks both. Can always rely on @Carlston for good data 😀

I currently have koni special actives on my Passat. Had bilstein b6 on my Octavia. Preferred the bilsteins. Feel tighter and more supportive.

Superb is woefully misrepresented by tuning companies. You'll need to do some digging for part numbers. I'm sure someone has posted them on here on the last 18 months. Yours isn't 4x4 so I doubt you'll be the same parts as golf R. Should be looking at Passat of a similar age. You'll keep the stock springs yes but be prepared for a slight lift in ride height as the b6 has high pressure internals. You'll need to select the correct type depending on if you have DCC. Bilstein call this damptronic I think. You can identify this by going into the mode menu and it'll say something like comfort or sport under suspension. You can also fit a bypass device that will deactivate DCC if you want to save some money (assuming you have DCC of course).

What he said. Match it with a stiffer rear roll bar and you'll be well away.

I have a spare set of wheels that I used on my octavia (18x7.5 et51). The stock wheel and tyre size on my passat (same as superb) is 18x8 et44 with 235/45/18. Would the 235 tyres fit ok on the 7.5 wide rims or should I be looking at matching the width better with something like 215/50/18? Keen to make good use of the wheels and not been overly enamoured with the cross climate performance this past summer. Best situation would be to keep them as winters (replaced with proper winters once worn) and put a set of nice summers on the OEM rims.

I've had my GTE for nearly a year and still use Briskoda. Valuable knowledge on here that is not just relevant to skoda Sorry to hear about your life changes. Hope it's all amenable. Welcome to the world of plug-ins 🙂 It's fun and still plenty mods to be playing with.

Will still need coding. Both component protection and fecs. Probably £300-350 all in.

So due to the cold weather I have been using the charge mode on the short section of high speed during my commute. Just to maintain a bit of charge. When sat at the lights at the end of this stretch the engine has kicked in a couple of times. If on auto hold this engine turning has actually been applying some force through the gearbox. You can feel the car dip. Knock it into N or manually turn on the "handbrake" and it releases the tension.

Not sure on the recirc setting but ac isn't just for cooling. It conditions the air for whatever you need/want. I can only assume that the air con unit is outside of the recirc loop so isn't used in that setting.

Indo find that the screenwash gets used more at different times of year for different reasons. Summer for bugs, winter for dirty roads, etc. Could just be that.

Good to know. Does make me think that a simple battery change should have an option in the menu for resetting.

But then you have stop/start. There are just too many variables to account for.

This is the important thing to remember. The internal fibres could well be breaking apart and close to failure m the only way to know would be to cut it open. So therefore I change mine when recommended.

How about spending the cash on handling upgrades instead? You carry more speed through corners so no need for more power. Is the grunt you get from a TDI vrs stage 1 not enough?

After I bodged one of the drop links when fitting the roll bar I have been looking at replacements. With the many deals on at the mo is it worth the added expense of upgraded links? Before any discount the upgrades are roughly double the price of OEM. What would I gain in real term by going aftermarket? Not interested in adjustment. Will likely set them the same length as stock and forget about them. Other benefits?

Not from my experience. Tried 2 different coding mods on my Octavia and neither came near to how the box felt. Improved response. Tunable to how you want it to ramp up (slow and linear to holy crap!). Yes you can achieve the same input by changing how you press the pedal but it's about the feel of it. You cut a steak with a dinner knife but you can also use a steak knife. They both do the job but the performance and pleasure in use is much different.

A quick Google should give loads of good info. The dog bone is also known as pendulum mount. It's the bar that connects the bottom of the gearbox to the car. The stock mount is sloppy to make it more comfy. The insert stiffens up the connection making gear changes more direct and also helps throttle response. I also found it tightened up the front end geometry and held a better line through bumpy corners. If you can change a wheel you can fit a dogbone insert. Add a pedal box and you have a much more responsive car. I would sooner fit a pedal box over a tuning box. You can tweak the pedal to how you want it and it cuts out the input lag that mqb cars have. You cant fully fix that with a map let alone a tuning box.

Sounds about right. If a "more budget" setup is required I'd go for the following: Springs (if current shocks are ok) Dog bone insert (really tightened up the front end for me) Pedal box (improved response) None of that should affect insurance much if at all and should come in no more than 400 notes total.