MarkyG82

See my comments above. Considering the similarities between the models, can anyone comment on why they are listed for one and not the other? Can anyone also comment on any issues that would arise if I fitted the superb specified springs to my passat. Further confusion arises when you look up the kit number on the eibach website. The individual springs are listed for cars that are not on the lists for the kits. confusion!!! Finally, assuming the cross compatibility with the eibach springs, could I fit superb sportline springs to my passat and does anyone have any going spare after fitting lowering springs to their sportline estate 280/272?

Thats lots of good info but I find it hard to believe that the awd version will lower 20+mm on the same springs. They are only something like 130kg heavier.

Probably eibach prokit if I do it. Been trying to find part numbers for suitable superb sportline springs that would drop into my passat as it's difficult to fine springs for a factory lowered passat with my transmission. Some Superb prokit springs are listed as compatible with the 280/272 and iV which would suite me fine if I can find factory springs. The 30-35mm drop is a touch too low for my liking and the 15mm factory drop would be perfect. Edit: I do have some upper spring perches ready to fit though which can add up to 10mm to the ride height. Back end sits too low IMO. The spring assisters I have bring it back in line so will probably fit the new pads when fitting the rear roll bar and keep them there if lowering.

Can you at least get to them with a nozzle of something? Not trying to wind you up, genuinely interested for future mods. Is there enough space to get an arm close and squirt some silicone?

Pretty sure that is just friction in the bushes. Release the bolts on the bush clamps and maybe add some lube and it'll go away. But as you know the bar will be in a suboptimal position so correct length links are needed to bring it back in line. ......and they look cool!!!

For handling I can recommend going stiffer at the rear. Currently have spring assisters in the rear and the added support is great. Turn in is much sharper and the ride isn't affected to much. A stiffer rear spring should do similar things. Having just had special actives fitted I am waiting on how they feel mid to long term before making any further changes. Fully expect to be lowering at some point but the next change will be to swap the assisters out for an upgraded roll bar.

This doesn't affect the loading on the sway bar though. The only time the bar gets loaded is with different forces on either side. If the front springs are the same on both side then the bar will just move up a bit. Hence the requirement for longer links to bring it back to a good position.

Can you explain why you are getting preload with lowering springs. 'Shirley' the sway bar is just pivoted up a bit? I get why you would want to fit longer ones to get the bar in the right position, but don't agree that the reason is preload. Also, do you have access to scales to get the corner weights right? That with a full alignment would get amazing results from your setup.

The top mounts are made of cheese on the mqb cars. At least the 2 I've had and the wife's arona (mqb?). Done some more short runs today and it's noticeably less crashy. The overall feel is quite similar to the stock setup on my Passat which, from reading accounts on here, I think is a touch firmer than the superb. Body roll was not a big issue with my car but it's reduced more now. Makes coming out of a corner more predictable and stable. As for your "bangs, leans and bounces", all I can say so far is it's reduced in all areas. I'll give more feedback after a week of commuting ( 11 miles each way cross country).

I have a kamei husky M as it's narrower than most. The narrow shape means it fits a bike carrier or two beside it. And we had it fitted to the Yakima whispbars. Box it very smart looking.

Assuming you got the reg the insurance company should be able to contact their insurance. Write down as much info as you can (date, time, location etc) just in case you forget it down the line. Tell the insurance company that you are informing them at this stage and you can claim formally if contact with the SUV people falls down (sounds like it has already).

Shocks fitted this afternoon. Only had the drive home to try it out so far and the feeling is actually similar stock over normal bumps. Support however is much better. Turn in is sharper and the reduced roll means that return after a turn is improved. That's my 5 minute review. I'll give it another go once I've enjoyed it for a few days/weeks. Edit: I do have a small handful of related mods that would add to the feel. Rubber ring spring assisters in the rear, dogbone insert, 12mm spacers front, 20mm spacers rear.

Do you have anything you can check for codes with? And also clear them. It may be that it's put itself in a sort of limp mode and it stuck in it until you clear the related code. It may run ok after that. Then maybe think about reloading the updated map.

Buttons shouldn't need coding if they are the correct layout.

This is why I have a removable dog guard thing that attaches to the rear headrests. Means you can stack it high for hols and add the roof box for silly capacity.

Just to clear things up for those reading in the future: The glove box unit is the head unit. The bit in the centre console is the screen.

Having my special active fitted on friday. Stock height though. Happy to report back for those with Superb iV's.

Re the manoeuvring issues. I tweaked the idle speed up to 850 (+100 in OBDeleven) and it made it much nicer to pull away and control at slow speed. Also reduced the tractor impression the car gave at tick over.

Quite a common mod to remove it along with blocking 5he back of the intake at the grill and unblocking the left hand side. It's unlikely to do anything on an unmapped car but a remap should make use of less restrictive flow. If car is still in warranty then I'd leave it be. If not then whip it out. Unlikely to harm anything with it missing.

On the subject of idle speed. 750 is about right for TDI. You can increase it a little by up to 100 or 150 (I forget) with vcds/obd11. Maybe worth looking to see if you can reduce it if you are really that concerned. For what it's worth, I mirror above comments in that all the cars I have owned the idle has been around 750-850. 550-600 sounds very low to me.

Being picky at this point but it's definitely not an Amundsen system. Screen is too big. Just seen it's a 2015 model so most likely to be a Columbus mib1. It obviously thinks it's stuck in announcement/call output mode. Maybe try making a call with it. Or turning on the traffic announcement.

Looks like Columbus. Do you have a voice control button on the steering wheel? Try that. Either press or long press. I had a similar fault although within android auto. Needed to trigger the voice assistant to get it back.

Useful rant. Thanks root.

@ArisaigDavid didn't mean to teach you to suck eggs. Sometimes people miss things or don't links stuff together. I've been guilty of thinking the screen was clean only to notice a big blob of birdy do do over the sensor. Hope you figure it out and please share when you do.

I have some wheels that would work. They are old seat wheels with Octavia size tyres on currently. Happy to offer them for a good price. Not bad nick but a refurb wouldn't go amiss. Price would reflect that of course.