newbie69

Update from my Haldex oil change today, all went well but I struggled with the following steps: a) The two Torx screws keeping the Haldex ECU in place, the bottom one is very close to the drive shaft flange and all my tool combinations were either too short or too wide to clear it, not any set will work there, you've been warned! I was saved by a really thin wrench I had in my tool case which i managed to squeeze between the screw head and the flange at an angle, get the hex bit in and clear a valuabe 1-2mm to operate it. However this proved to be a wasted effort as... b) The ECU plug connecting the Haldex ECU to the pump, yes those dreaded locking tab connectors VAG uses that if were designed with 40% less stiffness on the tab, they would be just as slip-safe but possible to remove from all those pesky, limited-access locations with just one hand instead of endless pulling, swearing and finger crushing in vain... I thought I had got the hang of them after so many JB4 installations and its infamous plug D but it just wasn't my day so, if you find yourself in the same position, you can proceed without disconnecting the pump from the ECU at all. Here's how this slightly alternative approach works: You still unscrew the ECU (remember it takes a special extension or very thin wrench to achieve that) to make more slack for the wiring. You unscrew the pump but obviously don't stretch it now as it's still connected to the ECU, instead you need to be keeping it up. In some videos they suggest leaving it to rest on the exhaust pipe next to it but I didn't want to take my chances and as I had a buddy with me (always a good idea for jobs you've not tackled before) he took over "support duties". You can then work as per the usual instructions while having the pump up. c) One last thing, the M10 filler screw... I have a few tool sets and combinations with which I've completed several jobs in the past, however all my HEX bit sets were stopping at 8, i had actually never needed a 10 HEX bit so far... Why on earth this is not a HEX head bolt but a socket head only VW knows. Of-fcourse I had a good old Allen key set that could do the trick as it included a size 10 key, but not possible to mount on a torque wrench to apply precisely the 38Nm specified upon re-assembly. So, I just relied on common sense to tighten the new bolt back with the Allen key, if you want to do it right make sure you have a 10mm bit before setting off. And now time for the star of the show... I had seen people cleaning their Haldex screens at 20-30K and they were looking only mildly dirty so i had some doubts how dirty mine would be / how necessary the whole operation after 2 years and 22.000 km. Yes I have done at least 20+ launches with the car, and it's tuned too but I was still shocked from this sight upon pump removal: The screen was in that sorry state at all sides, not just the one seen in the photos There had recently been the occasional trumping during launching, but only then, not in normal driving so I had suspected it could be slightly clogged, not that horribly though. After I saw this I can only say I'm glad I did it and it will be added in my list of yearly or 18months max maintenance, it's going to be much simpler and quicker next time I reckon. Again thanks to Bap for this guide that detailed the process and provided a great basis to work on

I must be missing something here... The View button does exactly that by long pressing it: Switch between the 5 available dial arrangements of which 3 are actually Custom ones set by the user and labelled View 1, 2, 3. as shown in the 1st picture by langers2k a few posts above. I'm not referring to changing the View modes, that's done by single tapping the View button but again much more of a pain to do via the infotainment when you have a direct button for it right where you need it. In fact, I find the view button is the cornerstone of the VC's operation on a daily basis as it's a thumb's touch away sparing you from a) taking your eyes off the road b) exiting from your current infotainment screen and and entering several sub-menus every time you want to just look at or cycle through the information of the various View modes or custom Views. It's definitely the button I'm using the most when browsing the VC.

I get that you want to get to know your new car etc. and maybe it has happened to some other cars, at some point, under some specific conditions? but it's not something that anyone has reported on these cars or their VW, Audi, SEAT equivalents really as in something to take care of as an owner by providing extra cooling for example, not the case.

It's the ECU and never heard of one in these cars getting fried due to getting too hot, sounds as you're worrying for no real reason?

I can't even imagine operating a VC without the view button, even if all of the functionalities of it could be carried out by the infotainment, (somehow...) which i realize isn't even the case, so...

Ok, so I spoke with a buddy here who had used the same item to do his VAQ oil change on his Cupra, basically identical process, he said the pump managed to fill it by around 50% (3-4dl) then it sucked air and overflowed so he had to repeat the process a few times to get the proper amount of oil in. So I guess the pump is giving up easily on this type of oil and you might end up trying a few times to fill it properly, i will probably look for another item that can minimize my "heavy cursing" chances then...

It's not the cost really, just the loss of my time to drive to the shop I bought it, and now take it back and look for a new one, especially because there was no warning written on the package... My guess too is something about the rubber seal as you say, although I am not sure if that means the oil is too thin and can escape, or it is too corrosive for the seal material, but then I thought brake fluid was far worse than engine oil in that aspect... Anyway, I will need to take care of this I think.

So I bought a small pump today which looked like it should be good for the job, only to discover the following warning on a sticker on it after I opened the box: (nothing was written on the outside of the package) I wonder why it should not be used with transmission and engine oil but it is ok for brake fluid?! Any possible explanation? Furthermore, could I get away with a one-time use or I should definitely avoid it, and why? (not expensive enough, I would throw it away anyway)

Actually, quartz grey metallic!

Clean looks for the win! Removed mine within the 1st week i think, full rear debadging of the 280/272 looks great imo. Skoda's "4x4" logo for the Haldex system is the worse choice within the group, much more suitable to a pick-up or off-road vehicle but out of place on a Superb. As for the "Skoda Superb" model name, it does not mean anything special in my eyes either, to be worth staying on the car. The fat dual mufflers that protrude slightly from the bottom of the car as well as the dual exhaust tips are still there to give an idea of what's under the bonnet for those in the know Here's what to expect if yours is a hatch too:

Great find! I will be trying the effect of this this week while the car is on ramps for its engine oil and Haldex oil change

Thanks Bap! All clear, just one more thing: I understand that you can anticipate when you've filled it with ~650ml, but what I meant is when you actually take out the hose and plug it temporarily in order to start it for the first time, at that point surely some oil must be coming out since you are removing the hose from the fill hole? or is the oil that "thick" that you can quickly plug it without spilling? Doesn't look that thick from the photos.

Ok then it looks like nothing to gain from flashing. The car came with the Sport menu from factory anyway (i guess because it's a SportLine), and i added the RS theme and the 280km/h speedo via OBDEleven so... if it ain't broke don't fix it I guess!

2019 ΜΙΒ2.5 Columbus with all factory options enabled, any reason to look into a SW update? Are other "hidden" features activated with the latest versions or is it just for the older units? No bugs to report either, never had an issue with the infotainment.

Among the known options, I've read the best reviews about the Rieger one, Superskoda and Maxton less so. I'd consider a front splitter if every manufacturer didn't go for that design of extending the spoiler towards the front of the car by a 3-5cm which to me looks too "racey" and out of place on a Superb. I would like something that discreetly extends *below* the front mask , not in front of it, the car doesn't need any more length

Getting ready for doing mine for the first time, great guide and fully detailed! Just a few questions: a) the oil filling syringe, the link is dead but in any case it's impossible to find the same item in different countries so what pipe diameter is needed for that? any specs? b) when removing the syringe after the 1st fill (up to ~650ml) for priming the pump, don't you get a mess from oil spilling out since it's already full? should you take extra care during that step and the next one when switching from syringe to the new fill plug to avoid having the oil leaking all over? c) I see no mention of "pump basic setting" after the oil change and cleaning. According to some resources this is vital to reset the pump to "as new" condition and make it "forget" the previously stored voltage/current parameters due to the (previously) dirty screen. Or is it only a problem in completely clogged cases? I do have OBDEleleven and I have located the function so I will be doing it according to the following instructions I found in a Golf R page but I was just curious as to how others have proceeded... Again thanks for the comprehensive write-up PS. I also think the p/n for the Haldex oil is wrong? Google doesn't return any results for "G 60 175 S2" and also in your pictures the p/n on the bottle reads "G 060 175 A2" instead, typo I guess?!

The assumption of people tuning their cars in order to be hitting higher top speeds or even speeds above the NSL is always amusing, but unless in Germany it's far from reality. It's mostly about the rate and ease of acceleration rather than anything else, 70, 60 or 40mph he will be getting to it faster than before for whatever reason, simples. On to the actual topic now, Map 2 is more than fine, still less strong than a typical remap in terms of boost, timing etc. I see no reason why you shouldn't just leave it to that setting unless you were getting error codes or weird behaviour, just enjoy it!

Please... I'm a master triggerer sir! I've had no issues with it when new and for around a year and a half, always got it right the 1st time and I have tought the little ones too how to master the technique.... Then since last summer it has seized working with the occasional waking up for some periods where it works flawlessly for a couple of days and then falls back in limbo. The spoiler is clean, cables and sensors seem to be there, I guess some software or sensor hiccup as my dealer says it's not the first time they;ve heard of that. I have a scheduled oil service soon so I will ask them to investigate, i'd just hate to have them take anything apart and risk the inevitable extra damage they usually do, just for this feature, i think they try some S/W update first though, we'll see...

If you install it, let me know why my factory fitted one has stopped working even though everything seems to be in check

Just to add, apparently even when serviced at the dealer's, they are so clueless that apart from not cleaning the screen, they also don't do the "Pump learn" thing and the pump can still be stuck to the pre-cleaning state and seem as if it has failed, leading to an un-necessary replacement of the coupling. So basically a dealer Haldex service is just an oil change without any of the other steps... Around the 18:15 mark:

Not something to worry about in the first place because: a) you don't really get much flexibility in terms of position. The combination of all the harness means there is really only one place to tuck it away and that's between airbox and battery. b) the above position provides almost a natural "pocket" for it for a snug fit without resolving to velcro tapes, pads etc. it won't be going anywhere once put there.

Yeap, same here. 2 year old sedan with plenty of rain and frequent washing but I've never ever had water collecting in the boot channels. When opening the trunk after waterfall, the water just runs down quickly and out of the back of the car.

Well, going by the JB4 guide, the two boost sensors are B and D, and the rail pressure * I GUESS * is the C. Camshaft should be sensor A, but without haven't seen the Steinbauer box don't just take my word for it, but you could try to see if my suggestions match the labels on the Steinbauer ones without connecting anything. There are pictures showing where A,B,C,D are located in the engine bay. Each sensor is a different type anyway so if you try my suggestions and all of them *happen* to match the exact type of the sensor you're trying to connect to they're probably right... ....or i have hit some extremely slim odds of randomly matching the sensor types (statistically possible but probably unlikely). Don't come back saying I ruined your car though! I'd only trust a JB4 on mine anyway

Does the attached document provide any useful information? VW_JB4_install.pdf