Guest_

I had the worst range from my car last night. I had the car charge to 100% and only showing 146 miles as recently only doing short 3 or 4 miles trips several times a day. So I was taking a passenger 58 miles to Aberdeen and it was around 1"oC. Usually no issue as there and back has still 60 miles or so range by the time I get home. So off we go driving in normal and heating on etc and after 50 miles the car is showing 60 mile range. I got behind a lorry and got miles downhill to Aberdeen and the range was then at 70 miles. So I decided not to get a charge there and head home and charge on the way. So on the dual carriageway I settled behind a lorry at 50 mph. And it looked like I had 10 mile range more than needed to get home but 12 miles from home I turned off to get a charge. Only a slow charger was available so I plugged in and got 5 miles more range and took a back road home. Range was 11 miles when I parked. This morning the battery had 10% charge and showed 0 range. Now on a rapid charged and back at 80% charge and 110 miles range in 30 minutes. So basically now going to assume in the cold weather that 100 miles between charging as a max on 70 mph roads. Roads where re-cooperation is not such an issue even in the cold. Saved maybe £24 on using my diesel van that is a heavy drinker but really not worth it as if the snow had reached were I was and any delays it would be a real PITA in the EV.

@Scot5 From years of experience of buying and trading in cars and going to auctions. Being a time served mechanic and being around cars other than mine has something to do with my comments. ? What is your trade or profession?

@Sanqhar If you check now just how much your speedo over reads it is likely about 3 mph when showing 70 mph. So you would very likely have a more accurate speedo and it will not be under reading.

Maybe when there are Enyaq's around for owners / tester to try this they will.

The list of cars that get a PDI and registered and then used just like a car gets used will include the Manufacturers Media Cars, Demonstrators, Courtesy Cars, Management cars which are often called 'Ex Management cars' along with Hire ones, Fleet / Lease, Motability cars etc. They really are ready to go from the factory and the cars used like cars from the off do not seem to have any more issues or failures than a car bought as a keeper and 'Run in / Driven in' with great care. The one issue with the 'Fleet / Manufacturers Management cars' is that oil might never get checked or topped up until a warning light comes on. That seems common now also with people buying or leasing a car with their own money.

@mehta Welcome to the forum. It is over ten years since that post and since the member signed into the forum. It will be worth posting in the Rapid section of the forum saying what age your car is, & what engine etc.

Welcome to the forum. It is possible that the last owner had disabled the Stop / Start so that it will not function. If the conditions are all correct for stop / start operating and the battery has enough charge then you will need to get the car checked out if you are really keen to have Stop / Start functioning.

Is that possible during lock down, or is the car not in an area like that? They certainly will know from their sales sheets what they spent on car prep, & if they had the car painted by kerbside autos or their paint shop if they have one, or if they bought in and only did minimum prep for the sales. They should be checking the paint thickness, and that should be the warranty manager doing that.

@Pamuna Do you have a bad battery as well as the stiff steering? Check the battery, charge or replace and if the steering is all good then that was a simple fix.

The issue will be corrosion almost certainly. It looks like a rather poor paint job which will have had pathetic preparation. What does the fuel filler flap area look like? Paint / Corrosion warranties do not cover poorly carried out repair work. If a car is in at a Main Dealership there should be a Body & Glass Inspection carried out and a report done on condition. Only a Master Tech on the forum has said that is not part of the service and had that confirmed. Also while Skoda UK put it on the Service & Maintenance web pages they then say that Inspections were not done when rejecting claims.

The car arrives from the factory ready for Variable / Flexible servicing and might get changed to Fixed Servicing at the PDI. If anyone does not want Fixed Servicing @ 372 days / 9,400 miles intervals then tell the Sales Person in writing and with a phone call and keep reminding them when you are going to collect the car. If they mess up and have changed it to Fixed when you go for the car just get them to get the Master Tech off their butt to change it. They should be asking buyers and not assuming, unless maybe they want to give the first service free gratis. There is no Service Books these days, unless by chance there are again.... @Mark99Has your car arrived with a Service Book, and what was the Service Interval set at?

I have never understood how the HMRC never got involved with what must amount to fraud with the £179 & £279/289 services that were. You pay a price that is the same even if the Air Filter, Fuel Filter or Spark Plugs were not changed. So not supplied and still on the shelf The 20% VAT is charged inclusive with the £279. Yet not changing the parts mean there is no parts sold and no VAT should be charged, and the labour is less as the parts are not checked, so they charge more for Labour to be able to have the VAT on that. If you did that on a fixed price food menu and the person does not want a serving then that is one thing, but you can not charge the Customer VAT on the Main Course of a Steak at £20 if they are not having a Steak.

@varaderoguy The fuel we get is equal enough to use in a TDI. If they are highly strung and needed treated like sugar, that is really the problem. More than half the diesel cars in the UK are using super market diesel. Yours fuel in that filling station tank came in the same tankers to the UK, or from Grangemouth, likely be from a depot that is supplying all the others and if you have Special Detergents in the Premium Diesel you use that is not going to stop a DPF clogging up if it is going to be prone to filling with soot.

An oil smell from oil is normal. Maybe that smells a bit like gasoline / petrol to some, and maybe there is petrol diluting your oil. So take the dipstick out with oil on it and try lighting it. Then since you are having trouble reading the dip stick. Run the engine, then stop it, remove the dip stick. Let the engine cool and the oil all go into the sump and dip it later with a clean dipstick. Hopefully no oil coating the dipstick tube.

Maybe once your post is moved to the Mk1 Fabia section those that know the engine you have can comment. Regardless of what engine you have you had best remove the excess oil in it, or have the mechanic that over filled it do that.

@varaderoguyWhat do you mean by a decent hi-grade fuel? Is that Premium Diesel from Shell / BP etc rather than standard diesel as sold by all Brands and Multi National be that Branded Retailers or Branded Super Market Filling stations? Regardless of how well maintained even getting Full Main Dealer Servicing to the recommendations / Schedules / Owned by a VW Trained Master Tech etc they were and are a lottery. The Members reporting issues with the 1.8 TSI's might be a tiny percentage of people that had ones failing, but then since VW Group fail to accept how many lemons they produced we will never know. No matter how many thousands of good engines there are, you are looking for one of those and not the lemons. Euro 5 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 & 2.0 TSI's can be like getting a bad apple from the barrel or even a lemon.

Awesome how he teleports from vehicle to vehicle. For the price point of the cars there a MG5 EV (Estate) really needs to be in the mix. (Under £25,000) People actually driving cars as they do use them day or night giving their experiences and getting the figures / range available rather than just guessing what is available is dead handy.

Pull out the dipstick, move away from the car and try lighting the oil on the dipstick. See if it goes alight easily. (Quite a common test carried out on the 1.4 TSI Twinchargers that could produce higher oil levels because there was petrol getting into the oil.) So all the VW Group engines other than the 1.2 44kW engines are according to the owners manuals checked at 'Normal Operating Temperature / Hot. (Skoda say warm sometimes) The 1.2 44kW engine they say is check the oil when cold. ? How are you checking the oil level on the dipstick, when hot or when cold?

LOL, he really is a ******. Scream if you want to go really really fast, like all the way to 70 mph not just 60. I would make him have to squeeze into an Abarth 595 and have him required to stay on his own side of the road where has has spent days driving various Porsche.

The Invoice should have the price you are being charged per part supplied. As to the profit, when the Minor / Interim Service was £179 & the Major £289. you still got charged £289 even if no Air Filter, Spark Plugs or Fuel Fitted was replaced. Still got charged the same if the car had 3 or 4 spark plugs, and 2.8 litres engine oil or 4.6 litres. The Free Car Wash & Vacuum was bl00dy expensive if you put in a 2 year old car and were charged for a Major Service and only had Oil/ Filter / Sump Plug and a Pollen Filter replaced, or maybe not even the pollen filter. Then seeing the list of things Skoda say will be done compared to the work sheets is an interesting one.

Try putting your battery on a charge and see how it goes. It might well need another battery, but then hopefully you have a warranty of more than 12 months on last years one fitted. Lockdown and reduced miles and also the crap battery spec of them OEM and the cars charging systems is an issue.

So your power consumption is high, lights, heater, radio etc on, low temps and your cars heater might be set 16*oC higher than the outside temp. Good that the engine keeps running and the battery keeps getting a charge.

@farty It will have been a man dressed as a woman with the same shoe size as a man or a woman. Or a typo. When it comes to bike tyres i have Plus Size tyres on 26" or 27.5 wheels and the circumference is the same and some tyres are the same width on the different rims. Obviously a 20" BMX wheel and tyre are not going to ride over potholes in the same way.