Breezy_Pete

Unplug the one that's easiest to find the connector for, probably nearest engine.

No way the car can know how much refrigerant is in the system. Except when there becomes 'not enough to operate A/C'.

08.07.2014 🙂

I think the hissing noise does indicate low refrigerant quantity, but it's how the evaporator valve sounds in that situation, rather than the sound of the leak itself.

See thread title

Wrong unit. The one that does locking stuff is above clutch pedal on RHD cars, above accelerator pedal on LHD. Not worth trying to access, as it has nothing to do with windows in this case. Windows are only controlled by driver's and passenger window motor modules, and the inputs they get from lock modules and switches. There may be redundancy in the earth connections, so that observation may not be a problem. I would try to measure from pin 3 - yellow/blue wire - of WM connector to (known good) chassis/earth while key is in various positions in the lock. What I'd expect to see is that when key isn't in lock, or is in central/neutral position, that pin will not be connected to earth at all. When key is in lock position (for as long as it's held there) that wire should have direct connection to earth, zero Ohms. When key is in unlock position, it should have 180 Ohms to earth. But only while key is held there.

The only thing I'd expect that to do is to stop the central locking from opening the other doors when driver's door is opened with key. Where's that red connector from in first pic?

SA1 is the fuse it goes to.

That alternator output wire doesn't go to the starter motor, it goes direct to the leftmost (as viewed from front of car looking into bay) big vertical fuses at front of engine bay fusebox. Wire gauge depends on alternator rating fitted, 16mm squared unless it's a 140A alt, then its 25mm sq. Looking at your earlier pic, it appears to be a 140A alt.

Ah, OK, that probably is the right one then. Until you put reg number in that Specifications tab isn't there. I'd think it's extremely unlikely that fault is being caused by a fuel filter issue. Much more likely an air leak. Have you checked the brake servo vacuum hose recently?

Can't see any useful details on that ECP page, or the product details page. Typically unhelpful. Does it say anything about the pressure rating on the Halfords page? Why are you changing it? Generally a waste of time and money, and almost never solves a problem. Unless wrong one currently fitted.

"Sorry page not found"

Genuine part number for your car including 3 bar pressure regulator is 6Q0 201 051 B. that's been superseded by 6Q0 201 051 H. Other readers with same BME engine code should not assume that it's the same for theirs. Some have 4 bar systems, I believe, and getting it wrong will cause no end of trouble. Judging by the fact that your car does appear to have an EGR valve (to the right of exhaust manifold as you look into engine bay?), it's possible that the change in fuel pressure coincides with the removal of this valve in later cars with BME engines. Not sure though.

Tell me the VIN (or reg number) and I can tell you the genuine part number to match, and bar rating of the regulator part.

Couple of annotated screenshots that show relevant circuit info. J386 is driver's window motor module. F220 is driver's door lock module. J393 is central convenience control unit. Orange boxes are lock/key position related stuff, brown boxes earths, green arrow is the microswitch that closes when key is turned to unlock, and earths that yellow/blue wire via the resistor shown above and to the right of it. I believe that's 180 Ohms. Circles with 205 inside are a splice/join of multiple wires in the door loom. Circle with 372 similarly a splice/connection in the cabin loom. T28a is the connector at A-pillar. The key position signal goes from lock connector pin 4, into window motor pin 3, then comes out again (not a direct connection between the two pins) on pin 10, heading for the central convenience control unit where it does central locking functions. I've known problems on these motor types be solved by hard-linking the thin brown wire going into pin 7 at the window motor to the thick brown one on pin 8. No harm in trying this I don't think, it's linked in copper on the circuit board anyway, just a few metal to metal contact connections between which may be corroded or loose.

I guess you can just unplug each of those things, one at a time, until you find one which stops the fuse blowing. You'll generate lots of fault codes and warning lights in the process. They'll probably all go away after a while of everything being reconnected.

So, for reasons unknown, the 'key turned to unlock position' info is getting corrupted on its way to window motor. Bad earth is a possibility, for sure.

There is no way to do that, unfortunately. It's controlled locally by the motor modules, no central connection or involvement. Key tuned signal goes to module, module talks to its opposite number on the other door as required. Window motors are invisible to diagnostics and CAN systems. Up until March 2010 anyway.

That's going to take a bit of detective work; that fuse supplies all sorts! Charcoal filter purge valve Secondary air pump relay coil Secondary air inlet valve Both lambda sensor heaters MAF sensor.

If G65 isn't giving a sensible pressure reading, A/C will not be operating. The fan should not be expected to work via refrigerant pressure increase, if there is no such increase, nor any signal telling the HVAC unit about it.

I think your cheap Chinese thermoswitch may be working OK, depending on where and how you are measuring the coolant temperature. The thermoswitch is sampling the output temperature of the radiator, not the engine coolant temperature as it is at the temperature sensor. Clearly the point of the radiator is to reduce the coolant temperature, so you should expect the output temperature to be significantly lower than the input temp. It does seem like you may not be getting good flow through the radiator though; coolant pump, thermostat or blockage all could be involved, I guess.

Made this little image just the other day for someone in the mk2 section. Your circuit board probably looks slightly different, but pretty sure the pins for inputs and outputs are the same. If I were you I would focus on what the voltage is doing at pin 10 (LTS input) when indicating left, using stalk. Should be high (12V, I expect) when stalk is in neutral position. Should go to 0V when indicating left. LTS = left turn signal, RTS = right turn signal. Hazards input will be on another pin, and seems to be confusing the issue a bit, by trying to operate simultaneously with stalk-controlled inputs.

Pretty sure it's the 1.2 TSI engines that have problems with fuel rail bolts. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/468348-fuel-leak/#comment-5257257

Have a look at strip fuse no.6 in the fuseholder atop the battery first; cracking of that is probably the most common cause of it being lit (and possibly obscured).

Threads are sequences of posts like this one. If you look at any given subforum, the titles of the first post of each thread tend to be describing the problem that's about to be discussed. Bit like a non-fiction book title.