Breezy_Pete

Brake servo is the round black thing on the back wall of the engine bay, behind the brake fluid reservoir. The only hose coming from that to the engine is the brake servo vacuum hose. I was referring to a couple of strip fuses as being mysteriously absent from the fusebox. ABS pump fuse and one for radiator fans, I think.

Plenty of other old buggers around will agree with your reasoning @Happy_owner. Relatively few younger people will care what you think, write or do, I expect.

Here you go. Measure each 12V feed relative to the thick brown wire, obviously with ignition switched on (or engine running) for the black/blue ignition switched one on the 6-way connector. J386 is driver's side window motor module, the rectangle below it is the switchpack. Fuses at the top. Ideally you'd check resistance of the wire that goes all the way from pin 3 of each 8-way window motor connector (driver's to passenger's), via the A-pillar connections, to ensure that it makes it, uninterrupted, all the way. That's the LIN data connection between the two modules (and nowhere else). It's a grey/white, thin wire. If all that checks out, I'd be looking to check, again, that you've been supplied with the correct part number, and that it is indeed new. Check date code on label.

I'll pop up a circuit diagram later, with what to measure, and where. Don't suppose you took any photos of it before refitting door card?

Is the door card currently on or off?

Look for whatever info came with the one you have now. It should be 6Y2959802. There are relatively few wires to check to prove that the loom does/doesn't have any broken wires relevant to the windows, so borrowing a meter might be wise. Measuring voltages is often more convincing than just visually inspecting wires.

What part number is the motor module you replaced with brand new? Do you have a multimeter?

Check fuse 11.

Did you change the alloy pipes that the cables go through on their way out of the car body? Might be sticking within there if not, due to corrosion build-up.

Very unlikely to be the sensor itself, more likely an air leak. Check brake servo vac hose as a first suspect. Often crack at the junctions of the hard plastic sections. Look and feel for such damage. MAP sensor is on end of intake manifold near dipstick tube. Some interesting absences from your battery-top fuseholder. 🤨

They're both visual checks, but the wiring is probably easier to see from beneath the engine bay, with undertray removed. I have no idea whether you have the equipment and skills to accomplish this safely. Do not get underneath a car that is supported only by a wheel-change jack. Pavements can be handy for creating safe space under cars with two wheels on, two still on road.

Check wiring going to compressor solenoid valve. There's probably a reddish 2-pin plug/socket pair on a bracket near starter motor where wiring is often found broken. No relays involved, except in fan control module, for fans. Also check that all visible parts of A/C compressor pulley rotate as one.

How many times would you like me to confirm this for you? 😆

Yes, that's the factory installed stuff. If things have been changed since, you'll have to work out what they are now. If the discs are the same size (288mm x 25mm thick) and the calipers are original, then pads to suit PR 1ZC will fit.

PR = 1ZC for front brakes. So those pads you mention are not correct.

Front brake PR code tend snot to be amongst the ones on the sticker. Reg number or VIN would enable me to look it up for you.

He has highlighted the colour-code key inside the rectangle on the right. Match the (German) abbreviation letters by each wire to the English translation of the colour in that key. G6 is fuel pump motor, G is fuel level sender.

Chain timing error probably will give a code stored in engine ECU.

Cam-to-cam timing looks to be OK 👍. Crank angle sensor might cause non-starting, and may or may not give a fault code. Awkward to change though, probably better to confirm crank to cams timing first. Fuel quantity in tank? Any chance of mis-fuelling with diesel?

I don't have wiring info for this vehicle, but the best place to be asking for this help is not this sub-forum. I will ask a moderator to move it to this one Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman - BRISKODA

The 'onboard power supply control unit' (J519 in circuits, module 09 in VCDS), controls the turn signals. There's probably an adaptation choice of do/don't flash turn signals as confirmation of locking. This may need re-setting for some reason. The same module possibly has a enable/disable 'comfort opening/closing of windows' adaptation which may also require refreshing.

The covers in question are held on by a single M6 screw each; I suspect you've mis-understood where I mean. This is a photo of the gearbox end of the engine, with cam end covers removed, and some flat aluminium plates inserted into the slots in the ends of the cams. the Allen key sits flat across them with the engine at no.1 top dead centre.

Check fuses 29 (10 Amp) and 30 (20 Amp), which feed injectors and coilpacks respectively. Could be a chain slip though, possibly. There's a cover over the gearbox end of each camshaft. Remove those and there are some slots in the ends of the cams. These should be at the same angle as each other, and horizontal at No.1 TDC.

Drum.

Slacken off lots at the adjustment in cabin, everything gets easier.