Breezy_Pete

There's probably another blown fuse, one associated with the ABS module. I can probably tell you which are good candidates a bit later.

Would certainly make better eating.

Well done. I'll PM you a little later, cheers.

Somewhere on here https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753/1/199/199055

It'll be fine. Just looked up the melting point of ABS plastic and it's pretty high, 200+ °C. Not sure if it is ABS, but it may well be.

Well done. Whether it runs constantly or not depends on whether the refrigerant pressure dips under the switch-off threshold (6.8bar from memory) when fan is running This in turn depends on ambient and demanded temperature, and of course how much air is being pushed through the condenser due to vehicle motion alone. Keep an eye on the plastic that resistor is leaning on, I suspect that resistor is going to get very hot in summertime, should that ever actually arrive.

No, you shouldn't be able to operate from keyfob. On these LIN-based variants of motor modules there is no data connection to anything central, so only local action at one or other door can provide inputs to the windows.

Most important factor when changing oil in manual gearbox is that the car is level, front to back, and side to side when refilling. Drain and fill holes are both right at the back of diff, so if done with car jacked up just at front, you won't be able to get nearly enough oil in when refilling. Picture a car on a workshop lift, nice and level, that's how the 'refill until it runs out of fill hole' is designed to work. Refill volume is approx 2 litres I think, but I don't have the mk3 workshop manual to confirm. Can look up part number of oil with VIN, @alep, if you wish.

Two crucial wires and connections for passenger switch (E107) function are the brown earth from pin 1 of switchpack, and the black/green signal wire from pin 4. The fact that the backlight (L53) works suggests earth is intact, as it's shared.

Next time I'm inside at the 'big internet' I'll dig out a circuit diagram of the passenger side motor/switch wiring for you. If you have a multimeter we should soon be able to find the problem.

Let's just rewind a bit. What was happening before the motor swap, no passenger side window action from any input? The hardware/software numbers won't matter, I believe. Do you still have the original passenger side switch? Whereabouts are you?

In that case it's most likely to be corrosion in the 16-way connector, specifically of the wire/contact coming from the passenger window switch. Unplug and look carefully for green residue on any contacts of the loom plug.

@Stevediggo does the switch on the passenger door light up (backlighting) when vehicle lights are switched on? Is it a 6Y... or 6Q... part number motor?

Maybe you two enjoy it, so carry on.

You two really need to get a room. Or both use the 'ignore user' function on each other. It's completely pointless quarrelling with each other all the time.

Might be better to put in the Superb Projects sub-forum? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/209-superb-projects/

Don't think it's the same. Putting the first part number into skoda-parts.com doesn't offer any equivalent part numbers, which it would if there were any.

Stainless no good, weaker than 8.8 grade high tensile bolts. Can't remember what grade the original bolts are, but at least that.

The three M8's at each balljoint can usually be persuaded to shear off and thereby let go, if they won't undo.

Plenty of long extensions is one solution. One side may need the engine lifting a little for clearance. The thing that'll really pee you off is when one or other bolt galls in the alloy of the console and starts to undo, then locks up again, forever...

Well the caliper slides back and forth freely on the guides, the bolts just hold the guide tubes square-on, parallel to piston movement. There's no side force on the guide tubes or bolts. The pad metalwork bears on the 'arms' of the wheel bearing housing, taking all the rotational forces.

25Nm I believe. They only locate the caliper, all the braking force is via the pads into carrier parts of wheel-bearing housing casting. H6 on FSII bolts, not H7.

Did you get sorted with the console bush stuff? Wheel cylinder leak into drum, maybe?

Skoda stopped putting the build stickers in the cars a few years back I think, didn't they?

Hello Mark, I'll be glad to help. I'll send you a private message in a sec, with a contact number for whatsapp etc. Cheers, Pete